NZeder

The originals were cast from a Wooden mould - so OS Giken must have repaired these as last I heard is that they were a little damaged from the last casting took back in 80's. However technology has moved on a lot so I am sure they would have repaired or replaced the moulds.

Gaijin will post when he is able to he has been tied up for a while and I am sure he is just as keen to get back to the project.

Ok I am going to use my airpoints for a flight to see one of those heads installed on a zed

Having travelled to many different countries over the years and having lived in Australia (and now back home in New Zealand) all I can say is thank you to those ANZAC that help create the freedoms we are accustom to. So "Lest We Forget"

And by the time you do the mucking around just put a RB block in and be done with it - now if only the S20 engines were easier to come by or the OS Giken TC24-B1 head - this is why some of us have gone RB for the DOHC look. However if I did not want the DOHC look in NA form then I would have stuck with L6 as even though they are only a 2 valve head with the correct setup good power gains can be made. Nissan did a great job on the L series engines, strong reliable and excellent power can be extracted.

FYI. The RB head will bolt on top of the L6 block - they have the same bore spacing (and hence the crank fits) and head bolt locations - however oil and water galleries are out. If you play around enough you find other parts that fit But a little hit with a little work you can make a crank curdle for the L28 from RB parts I have been told this can be done and I will be trying this out with a mate later this year

Some inspiration for you Adam Sorry not a MAC guy but Linux and Windows I can help with - new MAC = BSD OS = linux like so I am sure I could find the a answer for you but google will help alot

Yes back on topic - if this is like other OS Giken kit then it will be very nicely produced and top quality product. I am sure many zed fans would love to have some of the OS Giken kit that has been made over the years in their cars. If other custom cranks are anything to go by I would expect to have at least $5000 maybe up to $8000 given how strong the YEN is currently.

Well if you porn out your body you might get enough coin after a few years on the streets of Kings Cross.

I have a complete setup - however wrong side of the Tasman for you.

Thanks for that - I already have my brake setup under control (I think) I have 294mm x 24mm for the front these are two piece setup ie with alloy hat. The rotor is a common Sub/Mits sizing so easy to get. The rear I will be running will be 284mm x 20mm with an internal drum for the hand/park brake. Caliper on the front will be Porsche Boxster Monobloc which are designed for a 298mm x 24mm rotor so should be perfect.

Nice

If you want Wilwood and dust seal there is an option. The Midilites from RallyDesign.co.uk http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=8317 Cheers Mike

The RB26 intakes have the injectors located at the head end of the manifold. And yes if I had not already had the DCOE throttle bodies I would have stuck with the RB26 throttle bodies with either the stock plenum or trumpets - I would say the EFI Hardware trumpets would fit, might have to make a custom mounting plate - however I could check this out for you in the weekend if you like. I have recently sold my spare RB26 head (going on a RB30DE build here in NZ for a 240k GT repower project) however the guy did not need the intake or TB's as he already had some. So I have a full intake setup from the RB26 if someone is interested - I believe a number of guys have fitted these to RB25 heads with some mods.

So the DBA106B is the Ford hub based rotor with the following specs? 287mm x 24mm with 58mm hat?

Hell the list just keeps getting bigger and bigger - how about the whole collection that Nissan has kept over the years......now that is the ideal money is no object collection.

No unfortunately I have been doing an extension to the house so painting and tiling is all I have been doing of late. However I might take sometime of work so I can spend sometime on the car in the next few weeks.

I recall reading someone in Japan did this to build a 3.3L ie 90.5mm bore and offset LD28 crank

Result - good customer services goes a long way. I have contacted DBA and PBR in the past with little success however given we as individuals, we are small, they are not keen to pass on info or help for these one off/custom sales - yet a brake place the Race Brakes can do just that.

L28 dizzy is correct. This is what the guys in the US call the Turbo dizzy as in L28ET. These the units that they use with a Megasquirt. I have had 4 of them over the years - all sold to those wanting them. So you need an ECU for these units to work

Same bolt pattern but and this is the kicker - the L leans to driver side of the car (RHD that is) but the Z blocks lean to the left = if you put a Z series gearbox/auto behind the L engine it will bolt up fine but the angle will be way way wrong sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

You have email Not sure I will release my source until I have procured a set for myself

These are the closest I can find I like the look and they have the period styling they are custom made to order. However not sure if they would approved for any form of local motorsport but it would good if they were FIA approved. Might have to save some $$ for a set then

HS30-H = Fairlady 240zg aka the real McCoy. I have been lucky enough to have met Alan and his cars (yet to see the new one though ) Alan knows a lot about the history of these cars and the JDM models. If you visit classiczcars.com then have a look over the galleries for HS30-H you will see pics of Alan's cars (and many many more from different events in Japan) please respect these are his photos so I would seek his permission if you were link them here. I am sure Alan will explain the HS30-H in more detail (if I am incorrect or more detail is required) but HS30-H is the internal name for the Fairlady 240zg, much like the Fairlady Z 432R was know as PS30SB vs the Fairlady Z 432 which was just the PS30 (and this is the same code that was stamped on the chassis for both the standard 432 and the 432R much like the 240z and Fairlady 240z and Fairlady 240zg all shared the HS30 chassis code stamp) - this gets complex and takes a while to get your head around - some people just never get it or care for it. Me I like to know and try and get info as correct as I can. One day I hope to own a 432 (I guess like any S30 fan) but I am sure by the time I have the $$ for one in the current market - it will not been the current market = more $$ will be required. So that is my goal and in the mean time I will have my custom take on it a DOHC power S30 that fits in my budget.

Well my engine will have DCOE but not Carb I already had DCOE Throttle Bodies for my old L6 engine so I will use these on the RB26DE you can see info on my project thread on this site and I have pics on my website http://nzeder.net Cheers Mike