NZeder

Spotted this on another forum had to share. http://www.studiotimecapsule.com/aluminum_datsun_240z Limited production of just 6 (much like the 6 TC24-B1 that are currently in the making - now how would that be for a combo) with 1 for the first order = Datsun Heritage Museum and 5 extra getting built. Body shell for sale at $60,000 USD a bargain for a hand build Alloy bodied 240z that you can swap all your parts into. Or have the body made with double wish bone front and rear - all this info is on the site linked to above. Enjoy and I will be purchasing a lotto ticket this week and with the winning I will order this and a S20 engine to have a Z432 alloy replica (well sort of if I was going to this much $$ might as well take the double wishbone setup also ) Cheers Mike

yes please to the replica in Latex - I would take 3 sets, one set for me and 2 sets for other NZ zed owners that I know are looking for some too. These boots have been NLA for a few years now

Nice Fairlady Z you have there but it isn't a 240z from the look of your ad S30-06880 no HS30 = Fairlady Z, then the engine number L20-278367 only 2000cc. Then looking at the inside I see a JDM calendar clock and the Z logo on the horn pad all = Fairlady Z and the ZL from the look. Then looking at the engine bay...hmm single carb so I would guess some one might have pulled out the L20a with its small twin SU's and installed a L24 from a 240k or 240c if it is a L24 between the struts (could be a L26 even again depends if the L20a has been replaced or not), then they removed the Fairlady Z badges and installed the Datsun ones on the side. I would guess this car was an ex-military import from Japan or another part of Asia in the early days that was then dressed up to look like a 240z to get more resale $$ (this was common here in NZ in the late 70 thru to early 80's) None the less from the photo's looks to be a tidy car. Like the short rear bumper look and the rubber strip through the entire length of the bumper very different.

Looks good Ben.

Looks good Lurch. I have 16" as I did not really like the look of 17" on a zed as they always look over tyred IMHO however this is the first time I have seen 225/50/17 ie a larger side walls and it does not look as over tyred as I thought. So I might have to get a set of Rota RB-R from Ben in the 17x9.5.......hmm will have to think about that....more tyre choice in the 17" these days vs the 16's with only limited 245/45/16 to chose from.

I did see someone had taken said R32/33 CAS and made a shaft and bracket so it could be installed were the dizzy goes so that is an idea given the dizzy is spinning at CAS speed I will have to find those vid's, my RB has was you state, adjustable cam gears, larger cams, light RB26 ported head - fully balanced bottom end with polished rods etc. So I hope it goes well.

lol and that from a kiwi

Welling having owned a 3.2L L28 stroker - I am sure I will miss the L-Gata engine with my RB conversion - never know one day just might have to purchase another zed so I can have both again. So did you drive the RB before it was pulled out? What was it like? I assume you are keeping the EFI Hardware TB's and installing these on the L24 or are you going back to twin SU's?

What you talk'n bout Willis? They are the same height. The block and head = same height. So unless you have the engine mounts around the wrong way and the engine is not on the correct angle they will sit the same in the engine bay. Do you know what the L28 was from? Maybe if from a patrol they use different mounting = engine is in a different location etc. But L24 to L28 swap = same location in the engine bay. Can I make that point any clearer?

Lots of good ideas (some that put a simile on my face reading them). There is a guy in Japan that makes the following parts all in GRP - and I am sure with enough $$ CF could be made to. 1. Roof 2. Guards - all corners fron and rear (rear goes up to the roof line = matches his roof) 3. Bonnet 4. Panel between bonnet and screen (you know where the wipers go) 5. Sills 6. Doors So that is basically the whole outer of the zed. Put a cage in with all this lot. Use a R180 with good LSD centre, stick with a L6 box and don't go to a SR/RB 71C as they are heavier (just a bit), convert to CV's and use some light weight alxes and the CF drive shaft. Put all these body panels on with either alloy rivets or bolts. Stick with rotors that fit with-in 14" rims (maybe 15") ie 11" rotors front and rear (stock is 10.8" on the front and 9" drum - but all you guys know that ) so 280mm x 20mm and some alloy 4 pots. Get the lights 3 piece rims you can find/afford (and don't hit the ripple strips or they might bend if they are that light). Sticking with 14" rims for lighter rubber. So now work the steel that is left in the car. Use hole punches were possible to take extra metal our of the car Install FG/CF dash with alloy frame - remove heater and all extra not needed - strip the loom down to just all that is needed and no more and replace with smallest gauge wire possible for the given current draw. Strip all sound proofing off the uni-body put just enough paint on to cover and give the colour required and no more. Use lexan for the side and rear windows. Remove the window regs and have the lexan window either with a sliding window or just a leather strap with holes that hock into a latch to set the ride height of the window (aka early morris minor) Maybe get one of those late model L28 rocker covers that is made of plastic and compare the weight to the stock alloy unit. Use good light weight rods, pistons and take some weight out of the flywheel and balancer. Use the earliest 240z shell you can get as these are lighter I am lead to believe (ones with out the tool boxes is the ideal). Also use 240z suspension not the 260z stuff as it lighter (not as strong) but then the whole car will be lighter too. The list goes on and on when you think about it. But none of this is worth effort if the driver is like me and 15-20KG overweight so I need to go on diet before my car which is why I have 260z 2 seater as they are heavier than the 240z from the start = light weight is not a concern (well I guess I should loose KG before the car)

Don't think you can use the 240K strut (aka KGC110) as the lower steering are mount is different? Is it not?

me too but it does depend on the light - the flash makes it brighter

Thanks man - and since you asked for it - colour applied GP Green 907 factory 240z/Z432 colour was discontinued in 71 as Nissan replaced with different green.

Got a txt on the way home from work - I have been told the 907 looks good - so I will pop over tomorrow and get some more pics can't wait.

Ok sorry for the delay in an update - due to deadlines on other work in the shop mine again was on the back burner....but this was the other day of the underside/underbelly while the guys were putting seam sealer all around the place. And this is from today - I popped into the shop at lunch time. The top coat of 907 is going on all this later this week - so I will pop over later and get some more pics then can't wait to see how it comes out in 907 Anyway enjoy I know I am

Approved for historic racing too - would love to get hold of one of these - I hear there is place here in NZ that make new casting of the 4 cylinder NAPs cross flow head I wonder if they could cast one up with 2 extra cylinders - would be nothing like the original but one might be able to pass one off for classic racing as a replica. Here is a pic of the S20 engine that sits between the strut towers of the Fairlady Z432 and the KPGC10 aka first GT-R (pic of a Z432)

A fair bit as the column is not a bolt in solution - you need to make a few changes. Also the donor car that these units come from is smallish but a wagon that comes in at 980KG but when loaded supports a total of 1464KG (ie the little wagon/truck is full with a max load in the rear deck). Depending on the market they were powered by 1000cc upto 1400cc. That is about all I know as I have one of these units and I have not got my car from the body shop so I have not looked at the mounting in any details - and I might not install it yet, time will tell.

here is one installed and running http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1r5wJ4zoV8&eurl=http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/352801/blog/d20080316/ And some pics http://photos.yahoo.co.jp/ph/momoede10/lst?.dir=/3e42&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.co.jp/ph/momoede10/vwp%3f.dir=/3e42%26.dnm=a50b.jpg%26.src=ph&.view=t

And the zed is a big car? These modern small cars weight what 1000-1100kg how is that different to a zed? Remember gone are the days of small cars that weight under 750kg like the Datsun 1200 etc + the zed steering is not that heavy really.

Those electric power steering are not drive by wire - they are torque assist. This is the basic principle. 1. A torque input sensor is connected to the column 2. A vehicle speed sensor is feed into the steering ECU a long with the torque sensor. 3. Based on the above the ECU can tell the car is moving slow and turning. 4. The torque assist motor (in the column type EPAS - Electric Power Assisted Steering, or the pump in an electric hydraulic setup) is used to assist with the loads applied to the column or rack (depending on the setup) These are designed so they are fail safe so if the fail they stop assisting again you are 100% sill in control the EPAS is just like having a guy with larger mussels who will help pull or push on the wheel when things get harder. Does that help?

That is my understanding also - I have one of the RT mounts - but I am going to use the normal mount and not use the Chev mount on the RT bracket like the hyrbidz guys do - but I will use a bumpstop type mount over the top to just apply some pressure and limit/control the up-flex via this bumpstop.

Why sounds like you got one + one that is having fun with a zed on the track - what could be better (and don't answer that with some (_E=mc2_) a smart ass - in e-mooning, comment)

There are a few little engine Nissan has built over the years - but Accountants seem to kill a lot off well that or the greens due to not making the new standards blah blah....

This will help http://www.240rs.jp/HXI%207635.html

I believe a bit much like the S30 shells that we got and what the works teams got - very different. ie thicker steel here for strength and thinner here for weight savings - they have their chassis coded as BS110 not S110 to ID these differences. I have not really got into the 240RS history too new for my liking with the prices of old Datsun here in NZ I should have kept my 710sss and purchased that LZ head that was on trademe a few years back