NZeder

So do you know Sean? I will keep an eye on trademe.co.nz as L20et come up for sale every now and then.

No he does not have any 05L heads or any L20ET parts left he has moved to RB26DETT/RB30 now. Sorry I can't help at the moment

As he stated - L20ET head - common here in NZ - not so in OZ from the sounds of it...well they used to be easy to find here in NZ but like most stuff L6 these days 30-40 years old getting harder and harder to find. EDIT: I know a guy that might have one or two, I will ask him via email and get back to you via PM if he does.

The 4.3 R200 is actually a 4.375 and most call it a 4.4 diff I have never seen or heard of a 4.3. We find 4.375 here in NZ they are out of R31 usually and are the M12 version of R200 (they are, like most R200 becoming harder to find) I will keep a look out for you - but not before I find myself a 4.375 as the last one I got, Ricky has for his race car.

OEM no all 6.0mm thick however I believe there is some aftermarket screens that are 7.0mm thick. Does that help John

no that glass is the same thickness it is the hatch glass that comes in different thickness for the Australian market.

The RK-R any idea on the load rating on the rim?

Depends on the market the donor car the glass came from in the first place. 260z stuff is as follows General export = 4.0mm thick (ie NZ) Europe export = 4.0mm thick Australian export = 5.0mm thick 240z does not state other than General export = 4.0mm thick there a number of other part numbers for different markets, tint, temperd, heating but no mention of thickness so assume all 4.0mm thick.

Agreed - had to the do the same on a set of Kakimoto Racing headers I had on the old red 240z.

Then you are after one of the following A Kakimoto Racing, Fujitsubo or Thrust (no longer in business I think) header then as they a similar design to the one in the pic from Ben (in fact I assume Ben is one of these brands) Hope you have deep pockets getting a unit out of Japan is not cheap.

That is my guess too. I remember seeing other such devices back in the day - they were little chrome spring steel things that stuck down and out and would make a noise as the spring was moved when touching the curb etc.

Last I heard they were not in stock and were waiting for resupply - that was months and months ago maybe even 12 months ago now. A number of racers here in NZ use that header with good results.

wow learn something new - I only knew of the 411 SS with the J13 so to see this talk on the SSS with the R engine - nice

a 411 ss (not sure if they were sss but ss) would be the go

I totally understand Jason it is even worse over here - Mazda Rx which are very very popular you just don't see at classic meetings and even then the Datsun 240z/260z are invite only (talking locally here in Auckland) as the series organisers don't seem to like Japanese cars. There is Japanese class that has been setup but it has rolling 20 years so this season aka 2011/12 1991/92 car qualify so there is 1 x 240z (my mate Ricky) and 1 x 260z that race in that class and they are the only 70's Jap cars in the field the rest are late 80's 1600 aka Honda CRX, AE85/86, Turbo MR2 etc - not what I could call classics but then I was born in the 70's so I guess to someone who is mid 20's starting to race they would see these cars a classic...... Motorsport NZ rules for classic racing are good see http://motorsport.org.nz/assets/MotorSport-Manual/App-6.05-Sch-TC-2010.pdf for modified cars - there is another class for standard cars and "The cars raced in period as they were" the Schedule K rules. The T&C rules have tightened up over the last 5-10 years so things that have always been "Free" now have defined what "Free" means in the past it was a free for all The issue is Motorsport NZ set the rules not hold race meetings so it is up to the series co-ordinator to make their own set of rules for the class they want to run under T&C - after all it is their call they are just volunteers so if they don't like Mazda's they don't allow them to run. So out T&C rules are good - pick your car, do period mods using period parts/technology and enjoy - finding someone who will let you run your car is another issue.

So Grp Nc is for cars with a back seat then (I guess that is why I see a Porka) so a bus would make the grade if the fit within the year of the class as they have a back seat

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101042-tachometer-jumps-when-ignition-is-turned-but-drops-back-to-zero-once-car-starts/page__p__947120__hl__%2B240z+%2Btach+%2Belectronic+%2Bignition__fromsearch__1#entry947120 I my self had a new tacho drive installed inside the stock housing so it is now setup like a modern tacho - however if that above post is correct it should be just a matter of installing a resistors - but what size and where? Who knows? I have not read this yet but it might help (just found the link) http://www.dinoplex.org/tachoconversion/

+1 Don't know what else to say. RIP Marco

great news on the box. All coming together nicely from the sounds.

I did a VT conversion on my last 240z it worked very well and more than up to the task. The hopper conversion is very similar in rotor sizing and calipers so I am sure the will work very well even for track work with the right pads. As pointed out already bolt on easy to get certified. One question that covers the front what do the do for the rear?

Dream killer lol

Ok I thought I would look this up before I left the office for the day Here is the thread http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/64073-r200-nla-front-pilot-bearing/page__st__20__p__598053__hl__%2B+%2Bbearing+%2Bnla__fromsearch__1#entry598053 and the part number I found after hours of searching over the Nissan catalogues and FAST system

Guys I did a bit of research on this before (a few years back now) and there is a post on hybridz with a part number. The NLA part is the old number I managed to track down another part number for someone on hybridz once - I will have to find the thread again and post the info here. But I about to go off line for a few hours so unless someone else find it - I use the same user name on hybridz, and I don't forget to look it up later, I will post it up late tonight or tomorrow.

Well done, welcome to parenthood.

Ok been a long time again. Not a lot to report on the progress on my 76 260z project but have some news. So like I need another 260z 2 seater that needs final assembly - but that is what I now have. This is the spec NZ new January 1974 (manufactured August 1973) Low 260z chassis ID under 120 Strut to strut full chrome molly cage Adjustable suspension, coilovers, LCA, TC etc all adjustable. 4 pot wilwood calipers on all 4 corners, rears have internal drum for park brake Dry sumped RB30DE engine between the front struts Autronics ECU Things missing Windscreen and windscreen chrome :-( Window regulators Seats Fuel pumps and regulator I am sure small little things. What needs to be done ECU wiring Fuel lines run Install front suspension correctly Assembly Not 100% sure what I am going to do but one idea is this. Install RB30DE in the 76 260z with the DCOE ITB removing dry sump (keeping that for the 73 260z aka track car) Install L28 with work ie dry sump triple 44 mikuni's etc in the 73 260z track car given the ECU loom needs to be done and the fuel system conversion now is the time to keep the 73 carbs and making more correct for classic racing. So that is one plan. First I plan to get the suspension and brakes sorted and interior fitted (complete the work already done). Then I make a call on the engine config, but I like the idea of the road car with the EFI RB30DE power and L6 for the track car (opens the car to more classes locally) Ok pic time