NZeder

Well you make me look did you John.....I have spent the last 1/2 hour looking over the Nissan Fast system and what do I find - a model of Nissan that is now 20 years old aka should be lots of wrecks around, and how many actuators does it have no matter which model controller is install (ie buttons or fanny like yours) the setup as 4 actuators. One for recycle, one for blend/water tap, one for vent door, and the main unit. So this looks like this might work....now I am going to have to try and find one of these in the local pick-a-part and rob it of parts.

I had the same setup on my old Red 240z worked very well - well until new owner used up pads I got from Oz and the replacements he got locally were not up to the same stopping power - different compound - he got used to the feel/feedback of the Oz police spec pads

Like you say John to drive the extra actuator I had to build a piggy back circuit that controls this based on the selections from the control panel. This is one reason I have gone for a panel that has separate buttons for the different modes as I can link my piggy back circuit off the buttons. Currently in phase 1 test using the transistors I am using the grounding of the LED on each button to control this extra actuator. I have found a spare pin on each button that I can use for a new circuit to control this extra actuator - aka phase 2 test circuit. I am going to use a Logic gate to control the actuator on this circuit. I just need to check what state this spare pin is in when the button is on or off to know if I need to stick with the ground leg on the LED and a Logic NAND gate or if this pin can be used then what Logic control do I need, NOR, ExOR, ExNOR etc.

Makes perfect sense. The issue as you are fully aware is the location of the factory doors and their motion does not nicely match the modern setups. Here is some diagrams that might help others understand The pictures are from the donor Nissan I got the actuators from (well many Nissan share the same actuators it is box/doors/leavers that are different) First the Recycle actuator - this was simple - one for one install. The black boxes/circles show the actuator and the leavers that connect to it. As stated above I used a second of these actuators on the stock 260z foot/cabin door (will get a pic of the 260z heater and post/attach that also) On the 260z image I have used the same colour to show were I have installed the actuators (matching colour for colour - apart from the black which on the 260z pic has been swapped for orange to show up easier). Next is the modern box - the red shows the main actuator this is the unit that had 5 positions ie Vent, Vent/Foot, Foot, Foot/DeF and Def. The other Red boxes show the lever setup on this single actuator - for each position different doors move via these levers (or not the lever just slides along without moving the door etc). The actuator is mounted to the side of the 260z unit again shown as red. The 260z setup is simple just one door to move so I modified the control circuit so on the Vent, Vent/Foot and Foot button move this through the 3 locations just like the factory cable setup. The blue shows the blend door/water tap actuator and levers, this is what I am currently working on. This uses another control circuit from the air con amplifier. John's heater control panels has this amplifier built-in the unit. But the donor I selected had 2 different control panels, ones with cable water/blend door controls and then ones that have the actuator and amp circuit installed. Again looking at the 260z unit you can see the extra orange box/circle which is another recycle actuator that I have installed to operate the foot/cabin doors.

I know what you mean. Your conversion John, how many actuators does that have? Are you planning to use the stock heater box like I am?

New plan for the circuits I am going to pickup a logic CMOS based NAND gate to control the foot/cabin door actuator I have added. I did visit the local pick-a-part and got the Nissan Aircon Amp + most of the loom, I planned to work out how the actuator works for the temp/water tap. However last night I did some reading and I might just make my own circuit - will take me just as long to do that as to trace out the stock unit which has circuits for sun sensors, inside temp sensors etc which I don't need or want. I only want to drive the actuator using the pot on the control panel and the feedback pot from the actuator/servo/gearbox setup. I think I can do this with a standard low powered Op Amps. So during lunch I will pop out to jaycar and get the parts I need to start my new circuit

Guys, took the kids to see Car's 2 today. Many different coloured zed all over the Japan visit went to the 3D screening.

But at 10 +2 you will have spring perch and strut clearance issues vs the 9 -10 which will have 1" less backspace. This will help - stock spring perches you need around 4.5-4.6" backspace to be safe. Coil overs depends on the length of springs you run (a hard 8" aka 200mm should sit above the wheel) but 5.25" is the largest I have heard of. http://www.autolounge.net/calculators/tirespacing.html

I got mine from a brake shop (but that is here in NZ) and the flare used is a standard inverted flare - not a bubble flare like used on Euro cars with metric flare nuts

M10x1.0 is the stock thread sizing hardlines are standard 3/16 pipe. I replaced all my hard lines with new 3/16 bundy tube and stainless steel 3AN fittings. I then have had new flexi lines make up with 3AN fittings on one end and M10x1.0 on the other to suit the callipers - but then I am not using standard M/C as I am using titlon items.

First depends on which model 240z you are talking about. There are 2 pedal boxes for 240z (just one for the 260z) They are the 80mm and 100mm versions. Most 240z have the 80mm version (this is the mounting holes centres for the booster) however later model 240z and 240z factory fitted with an Auto will have the 100mm versions. The 100mm version is basically the same as the 260z. Now for the 100mm version the box that holds the pedals is the same - it is just the Auto is missing the clutch pedal and uses a different brake pedal. So you don't need the box just the pedals

great work scoot - nice project/job

That explains it Peter - I see the holden diff in there - looks good

Nice work Peter - so this goes in the stock location under the zed? Just not a large/long = makes room for an exhaust system without sharp restrictive bend to clear the stock tank

You can get 350-400 flywheel HP from L6 in NA form and reliable too. Take 30% losses so that is 245HP to 280HP at the wheels. There are number of engines I have seen, owned, that make this HP at the wheels from L6 in NA form, some EFI throttle bodies, other on carbs. One engine I know is 4 race season old with no issues. I am sure Pete Mc can assist with your power goals from any engine of your choice. I thought others on this had done the numbers on the new rules and a 3.2 super charged engine just fits - so then a 3.0 turbo should fit too?

given it is race car - fibreglass an option? see http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2285.msg17249.html#msg17249

truck loads I bet - but if he adds up all the labour in this project it would be small in comparison - if you were charging out for that level of a rebuild.

Both those engines will fit in the Oz rules - 2400cc to 3000cc the Synergy unit 2400cc and 390HP and 95KG

Synergy V8 or the Hartley V8

I also use a clever hosted service and like benny has stated on of those for my site nzederdotnet.

Interesting - could very well be custom - never seen that design before How long are the primaries? They look about 32"

got a pic from the other side. Now ever shows Zed headers on that angle/side

lots door locks changed, doors changed, chassis changed, suspension changed - taller rear strut towers, inner front and rears guards/panel vary from year to year - also depends on the market/model of the car too. As I have never owned a 2+2 this only applies 2 seaters and is going by the different models I have looked at/owned over the years

Nothing wrong with the flat tops if setup and working correctly. Just most don't know how to get the to work correctly and tell you they are junk.

Ok rev - you got a smoker there I hear - time to make it a non smoker - as we know smoking is not good for your engine. Blue ish colour = usually signs that oil is getting in to the cylinder and is burning - ring issue - if it has been stilling a long time it might be just the oil ring that is stuck. Best to a compression test to see if the other rings are not stuck too. If not stuck then then they need replacing - tear down time. White colour = usually means steam aka water getting into the cylinder. Look for water in the oil or oil in the water - Chocolate Milk Shake in the stump or on the oil filler cap a good ID of this - but I am sure you know this already. This could be as simple as blown head gasket, or it could mean more, corroded head etc either way - both smoke issues could be a complete strip and rebuild of the engine is required. Hope that helps.