NZeder

My first Zed, I still have, purchased it back in 95 had a few others during its time off the road which has been over 16 years now off the road......wow need to finish it.....ok just checked when I took the car off the road not been 16 years......but 13 years so that is still about 10 years too long.

Well I am working with the local agent here in NZ on a set of 15x8 RK-R right now - I will hopefully be getting a rim to test fit and see if they clear the 12.19" Wilwood setup on the front of the 260z race car. So I might have photos (no tyres) of a single wheel in the next day or so.

Quick answer NO. 8.5" +20 gives approx 5.5" of backspace and the stock suspension is only good for 4.5" on the front of a 260z. A 8.5 +4 would work but it is going to require lip rolling on the front - the rear of 2+2 has a little more room than a 2 seater so they might fit without mods but that is just a guess.

Brian has the second type listed on his site. Well replica versons of the autolook. See http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt81970/pd2123432/JDM___SPEED__SEAT__FIXED_BUCKET_TYPE_

I agree, I have had 2 here in NZ finding them now is hard and finding a good one is harder. I would get a US car and convert using a 2+2 if you wanted to do that. Kerry if the white 280zx 2 seater on trademe was the now turbo power and with a black bonnet then that was once in my ownership (got it as a shell with rust and no engine or box)

I have been lucky enough to have seen a set of the Nissan ECCS ITB's that were used on a Works engine in a garage/storage shed in the UK on one visit a number of years ago so I know they do exist and I have a book at home that talks about the use of injection on the works cars. Now what we need is some documentation showing a S30 L6 powered car entered a FIA event with said setup and that should go a long way to getting ITB's accepted - again I know it was done like you say Simon just having the proof to back it up. Link to a post on this site about ITB setup on L6 works cars http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=9257.0

Talking about ITB's don't forget Nissan ran ITB's on the works rally car S30's back in the early mid 70's. Now given a ITB design has not changed since the 70's to the latest version of the ITB's from the likes of TWM, EFI Hardware etc (they have a butterfly, and way of holding the injectors - that is all) - the differences is in the controlling ECU of the 70's to now or mechanical to electronic and hose tail injectors to o-ring based etc. The question we need to know is how the ITB's that Nissan used on the works cars was controlled ie mechanical or electronic - also I believe it would have been fuel only with a dizzy and the Nissan CDI setup of the day controlling spark.

sorry for the off topic move on this post but this will help with your tach issue. http://www.dinoplex.org/tachoconversion/index.html

just like Nissan did on the front park/indicator setup on the 260z see

is that on a 2+2 they have a little bit more room than a 2 seater, not much but a bit more.

well that might be the case in Australia but they are getting harder and harder to find good ones now so the price is climbing also the cost is not that high if building a L6 correctly. A simple rebuild sure you don't need any of these headers and the ones that are one ebay that look like this are more than up to that task and will give a good weight saving and improved sound over the stock cast item.

maybe the standard cheap SWR items but not the tuned length items here is a pic of the good SWR items (photo linked from Adam's Brown Hornet thread)

Simon - give up - as I stated in a previous post more trouble than it is worth. Which is why the SWR items are worth the extra, they are known to work, you are dealing with a local and well respected Australian Business and even if you had to wait for them to be made, you have waited 7 weeks on just getting info on making an order, the SWR items would be made already. Sometime spending a little more upfront = a lot less headaches along the way.

Looks great Simon, love the air box where does one get one of those? PM if you like.

I have installed one of these in one of my 260z http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products_main.php?cat=3&scat1=41&scat2=25 Basically the same but made by a well know 240z fabricator in the USA - John Coffey - designed as 100% bolt in for our cars. Ok not as cheap as the units above but no mods required to the mounting plate etc John was good to deal with and also supplied the Titlon 75 series MC for my install - so another option.

The bonnet vent/louvres were market driven. Ie hot locations had the louvres aka Australia, my later 260z coupe 76 manufacture but 77 sold (yes its the last shell version) did not have the vented/louvred bonnet (but it does now) when new. Mine is also a non emissions version with no carbon canister, no fuel evaporator tank very different to the oz imports I have seen. Re the badge yes mine had the 260z on the hatch as you state.

How about this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkDLMdFJMQk

I too have heard of the same issues, even with the 300zx/s13 aka modern-motorsport conversions. I think the issues is related to the dual purpose of the caliper ie disc brake duties and park brake duties. It was this reason I went for a internal drum in hat disc brake conversion. Little drum for the park brake job and a single purpose caliper on the disc. So I think this setup would have the same issues as it has a dual purpose caliper setup also. This is just my opinion.

And that might be the biggest issue I gave up years ago - ordered a LH and RH strut for my old 120Y got two LH - so I then got two RH and sold the second set. The last 2 sets of headers I got for a zed I imported from Japan - as I did not even try the USA boys as I heard getting the headers was like hens teeth.

the setup does look good. Heatsheild normally helps but the ceramic coating also helps a lot with exhaust temps

but were are the 15"

Here in NZ most use that style of header - might be as that is mainly what we can get made locally (a guy makes these from a jig he has) however one of the sets that I know was made to the engine builder requirement based on this style/design just longer than the normal items off the jig - then owner had requirements around the collector so the gearbox could be removed without dropping the whole exhaust system. I did not know of the tuned headers that SW makes until Adam posted a pic - I had only seen styles you see on ebay.com.au from Oz and they just don't cut it on a race engine - so for us here in NZ it has was been non tuned length (Nismo/Fujistubo/Thrust replicas) or tuned length as in these USA based Nissan Motorsport (not the same as Nismo). If building a high HP engine ie $$$ spend then the SW tuned headers would be first on the list. If I was building a mild or good road engine then ebay ones though they don't look as nice would work well (as does the stock cast item - it is just they are sooooooooo heavy and the ebay headers will save weight)

Again that is a bit of loaded question. That does depend on the length of the coil over spring you run ie if the spring and it mount sits above the rim/tyre combo you will have more room for the combo to back in towards the strut. If you are talking wide as in 275 wide and in a 40 profile for a 17" rim (using Toyo.co.nz for tyre sizing info) then that is a 652mm tall tyre vs the stock 260z tyre 195/70/14 = 631mm so 3/4 of inch taller - not much but it might be enough to cause issues - and a 285/40/17 (if they exist will be worst) A 265/40/17 would be a better fit - 639mm tall and fits on a 9.0 to 10.5" rim. I just wish we could get 245/50/15 still as they work on a 15x9 rim nicely.

To answer the question about offset with no coil overs you need 4.5" of back space on the rim. So a 10" rim with 4.5" of back space make approx -25 offset. Ok some math. 10" rim = approx 11" outside lip to outside lip 11" 0 offset = 11/2 = 5.5" With no coil overs you want 4.5" to clear the spring perch so 5.5" - 1" = 4.5" (notice the minus = you need a negative offset of approx 1" aka 25mm) So that would make the front space 6.5". Before you order rims/tyres make sure your flares will cover a rim that will stick out 6.5" from the hub mounting face.

who makes a 285 tyre? is that a 285/40/15?