NZeder

You know zed are wired a bit different in the headlight department. The fuses are for lh and rh not hi low like most expect. And the switch connects the earth to the circuit. So if someone has done a relay conversion and did not do one of the following you can have issues. 1. Take the factory setup in consideration and place the relays in the correct location in the circuit. 2. Rewire the headlight and switch to suit the required relay design. I have included a screenshot of the Atlantic Z pdf show one way of doing it. This changes the headlight from having the centre tap connected to power and switching the earth to having the centre tap connected to earth and via the relay connecting the power. One more thing is your switch working correctly. The issue with the zed setup is the switch sees the full current as it makes the connection to ground and closes the circuit. It is for this reason most install relays. Do you want all the current so close to you or the steering column (the earthing medium in the case)

Did these sell?

Well as the min order is 40 items aka 10 sets of rims we kept the colour choice simple and either flat black or royal flat Gunmetal Here is sample colours 15x8 ET0 aka +0 Offset shown.

Well for us boys in NZ anyway...An order has gone up to Rota for RK-R 15x8 +10 they will be in NZ in approx 8-9 weeks. So I will get pics then Cheers Mike

Mate do you not read any of my post? I have stated it time and time again on others threads you have asked questions about this same topic. FFS go back and read them. Hell I even posted a pic of a 260z with stock suspension fitted with a rim up front showing the room/clearance with a rim that has 4.5" backspace so you can see it for your self.

So Pete this last engine this is the last engine for a customer right? You are still going to slowly work on the NC26 hybrid thing for yourself right?

you crack me up.

I think he means these http://www.levanta.com.au/max-jax-lift.html

They might fit.....a 8.5 +4 with a 10mm spacer on the front of a 260z with rolled guards on the front is the same as a 8.5 -6 right. +4 and +10 space makes -6 (I know + + = - WTF - but a +4 is 4mm more inwards from so a 10mm spacer will effectively the same as a -6 offset rim) So that in mind - there is a pic of my 260z with a stock spring perches (no springs block of wood to simulate fully compressed suspension) a 16x8.5 -6 and a 225/50/16 rubber. Now my front guard at this time had a bit of round tacked on to the lip and the lip was then bent around this wire to keep strength in the guard after this rolling. And the same rim on Dad's old S31 (aka 260z shell but actually a Fairlady Z with L20E power) - this car was stock suspension, guards you can see the rim is very close to the spring perch and a 8.5" -6 rim has 4.5" backspace so that is why I stay a 4.5" backspace is the max you can fit on a 260z with stock spring perches.

correct they don't

280zx first and last Factory fitted turbo to L6 power Zed Janspeed as a bolt on kit available in period for 260z and HSK etc. But not factory fitted.

Extra special - 280mm x 22mm I what he was thinking would be my guess Re your brakes historic vs non historic - what are they allowing you to run in historic? mk63's with the sport-option or FIA approved setup aka Group 4 setup = 298mm rotor (only at 20mm thick) or what the US ran or even Big Sam in the UK. Big Sam in the UK ran under FIA rules and it ran CAN-AM Brakes. However I have not yet found what size CAN-AM Brakes actually were. My guess is 11.75" x 1.1" aka 298mm x 28mm aka same size a BA Falcon Front rotors. I am about to do a conversion on the road car (removing my radial mounted HI-Spec Brakes from the UK, which were setup for 294mm x 24mm - keeping this setup as spares for the race car -or sell again a bolt on setup) using BA Rotors and Calipers this will be a bolt on and off setup so standard stuff can be reinstalled in required. I am going this way as the BA setup will suit a number of period rims that flat-ish on the inside aka Watanabes.

I have posted the answer in there before. Stock suspension max back space is approx 4.5" aka 8" rim with a 0 offset. The 0 offset on the rear of a 2 seater car (ie 240z, 260z 2 seater) requires either lots of negative camber and or guard rolling. The 2+2 have a little more room in the lip department so they should work (I say should as I have never owned a Bus aka 2+2) So 8.5 +4 will work with coilovers and lip work as stated on that thread on hybridz - be it 240z or 260z 2 seater or 2+2 as 8.5 +4 = 4.9" backspace = will hit the spring perches on either 240z or 260z = game over for stock suspension forget about that lip/guards My old red 240z had 16x9 -7 with stock 240z spring perches (not stock springs or inserts) and they worked with lip/guard work and a 225/45/15 type. However this same setup which as 4.7" of back space did not work on 260z with the lower front spring perches so I can say 100% that 4.5" works on the front of a 55mm strut (aka 260z strut) but the 4.7" does not that is how close it is. So at 4.9" game over .2" aka 5mm too much upfront. These rims should work in the rear fine - it will be upfront you have issues. However you could run a stock 10mm spacer up front and it might work if the guards are rolled on the front. However this is just by calcs so only why to know for sure is if someone has done it already.

Well I will be, the fast zed's here in NZ run a bit more than 400# thats for sure. My car was purchased as set for targa so 375# progressive rears and 450# progressive fronts and that is for targa. For a circuit car we don't run progressive springs and start at 400-450# in the rear and more in the front but only on cars with strut to strut cages. But it is very rare to see a rear anti-sway bar on the back of a zed here in NZ too

Can't say car only has 225/50/15 on at the moment and if a race car is at full lock - things have gone sooooo wrong who cares if the tyres is rubbing the chassis rail. Front valance = cut, you might have already done that if you want to get a good amount of caster anyway. Again not a road car so not concerned about. I guess the other option is run 15x8 ET0 and pull the wheels in a bit - ie negative camber on the rear by moving strut tops inwards then make sure the rose joints on the lower rear control arms can adjusts out most of the camber induced via the top movement = shorter Rear LCA. Then to keep the tracks close run some custom hubs up front that move the mounting face inwards by 5-10mm to match the back - will be running wider rubber so that puts things back in place where the 225/50/15 sit. The 235/50/15 are a total of 15mm wider than the R888 225/50/15 15" 225/50ZR15 91W 603 230 6.0 - 8.0 15" 235/50ZR15 94W 614 245 6.5 - 8.5

yes but not the point...the car has 15x8 ET0 already geninue minilites and the rear is running too much negative camber to keep the setup way from the rolled lip already. You can't machine 10mm off the back or the wheel nuts will pass right through the rim. So yes ET0 do work but not the ideal for the 235/50/15 will be too tight and that is the point. Well we run higher spring rates than that

What spring rates are you running? +4 will work but if custom ordered why not got +10 and get a little more fender clearances?

Race cars - we want to run the larger 235/50/15 toyo which has a 245 foot print so almost 10" of rubber so having the rim a little more in board is required without flares...so that is why. If we are talking a road car that will not see the same suspension loads setup like we want to run sure the 0 is fine with a rolled lip on the rear - fronts are not a issue it is the rears at 0 offset that are too close with the camber we want to run. You can get the 0 to fit by running more neg camber on the rear but having too much on race car = less rubber on the track, we need rubber on the track for max grip levels. So that is why

very impressed rating is much higher than the older RB-R 690kg vs 390kg if I recall. If we can get in ET10 then running the 235/50/15 toyo's and all should fit in the body work

you asking about the rear rubber on my zed? If so they very old dunlop d1's 225/50/15 but toyo do the r888 in 225 and 235 50/15 well here in NZ they do.

And some more

I did get some pics with post up later. I am waiting to here back from the NZ agent if a number of us here in NZ can get (might have to be special order) 15x8 +10 RKR currently the only have 15x8 ET0 (0 offset) now these ET0 work with non coilovers 240z or 260z but due require rolled lip/guard work. Rota have a listing of 15x8 ET5 (+5 offset) but only in 4x100 PCD so for our 4x114.3 again a special order of ten sets (40 rims). The guys I talked to here in NZ are either 240z with non coilovers or running coilovers on 240z or 260z suspension so a ET10 will work - an ET10 will hit the lower front spring perch on 260z struts (this is true with 15 and that is all I am concerned with as that is all that we can prove was used in period on race cars) FYI these new RKR have a lot of brake clearances and a very flat in side shape so the 12.19" wilwood setup I have clears fine which is not the case with some 15" rims. Pic will follow tomorrow I will edit/update this post.

Keen to make another one of those bonnet brackets? The new 260z that I got has the same issue as the engine has been installed a long way back so the original bracket has been cut off. Cheers Mike

well the intake plenium is from the Autech RB26DE so that is at least part of that RB2something and looking at the installed height that is my pick a Autech RB26DE with a differnet header.

Use an Android Tablet - problem solved, you can browse local storage no problem....I don't have an iPad so can't add thing of use but