NZeder

You should convert to the later power rack setup there is one for sale here in NZ currently. see http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/steering/auction-569288507.htm

There is an energy suspension captive gearbox mount that fits to the gearbox - but you will need to make a new x-member to hold it - they are made from urethane so should be stiffer than the stock item + is captive if they do fail. This is the one I am talking about - its the GM trans mount. http://energysuspension.com/universal-products/motor-transmission-mounts.html

Ash - any idea on how they compare to the System 1 versions - I have been told the System 1 are really good. Would you ship to NZ

I got nuts and castles off the rear if a Nissan sentra/pulsar can't recall the year but I think it was early 90's model

Nothing wrong with the dcom carb they are like a dcoe but have an accelerator pump setup like a dellorto. They are the improved dcoe per say. But that is all I know.

Ka24 heads are not that common here in NZ are they easier to find in oz?

This with 80's rubber a loose nut behind the wheel, a sand trap = rollover.

ok the first rebirth of my 260z - done by the PO back in the late 80's early 90's Before After Then Before again. And After Now been off the road for 15 years while I removed some rust missed the first time (under the batter box + some over the firewall and radiator support aka only panels not replaced lol during this first rebirth) but it has sat still waiting for $$ and time from me.

When in transit in Singapore I was so tempted to get the GoPro Black with the Wifi remote....however I still have other things that need $$ before I get a camera.

Well that does depend on the model and spec - some have 4.11, some 4.375 (or commonly known as the 4.4) and some have a 3.9. For Jason R200's we are talking here. Best way to tell is drop the rear cover off the diff - turn the crown wheel and get the number of it 39:10 = 3.9 (which is the number of teeth on the crown and pinion) a 4.11 is 37:9 and the 4.375 is 35:8

They look great Adam.

See goes to show that the flow bench will show x flow at y but like you have shown on your test day that does not equate to the same on an engine under load. One day we will get some oer 47 again..I put oer 47 on the old red 240z replacing some odd ball Weber 48 (non sp type but more like a standard 45 Weber but 48. I think of some Alfa or something) and that made a big difference to that car. I had no dyno back to back just seat of the pants feel and the dyno when setting up the 47's

We flow benched oer 47 and mikuni 44 there was nothing in it....but that is a flow bench. The oer 47 are a straight bore body the mikuni 44 are not. Now if the Webber are doc SP type ie race carb with no idle chocks then they will be tappered bore so will out flow the oer 47. But it does depend on other factors if the engine will gain from the differences in flow from each carb.

I have owned a few Honda V4 motorbikes with gear driven cam shafts and they have a very unique sound - so this 2012 version TC24-B1Z with a gear driven cam setup will sound....well out of this world. Now where did I put that winning lotto ticket....that's right I don't have it yet and as for the cost approx ¥3.5mil or $37,000 AUD that is for the head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold and engine mounts (you need a block, different bellhousing aka Z20/24 4 cylinder bellhousing from a D21 other Z blocks aka same as the L bolt pattern but they have he NAPS cross flow head so lean the other way like these head/engine setup do) and last I heard there were only 24 left for sale.

OK so I am leaving Paris 9PM Friday Melbourne time (aka today) and will get in to Melbourne on Saturday 9PM (last flight back to NZ departed 3 hours before hand) so an overnight stay was in order anyway so as stated getting last flight to NZ on the Sunday so I can collect zed parts and hopefully a lunch with those keen to catch up. As I will be offline from basically now until I get to Melbourne if anybody has some good ideas please sort something out and I will call lurch and Dimitri when I land too see what if anything is happening. I will be catching up with Dimitri to collect some zed parts anyway so maybe I will see others or not. Either way going from -6 to 40+ degrees is going to be a shock to the system. Cheers Mike

OK went down the the "Champs-Elysées" again today got a pic of a F1 Renault and some interesting Mercedes Benz of the gull wing type will post pic later

according to the blurb with the car the 2 convertibles were made for the James Bond film and these were made from the prototypes so making them extra special

While in Paris on business, what is one to do in winter in Paris, of cause walk into the Toyota shop on Champs-Elysées and see a 2000GT in the flesh for the first time in your life....how cool was that. OK here are some pics quickly. I will host and post more when back in NZ as I am still here in France for another week of work. Cheers Mike

yep just found that statement on the online cams manual under schedule A&B item13 states "Be fitted with a steering wheel not incorporating any wood, unless such is the original component of the automobile"

most bodies flat out ban wooden wheels these days and I am CAMS is no different.

If you are after a good base for a project then the one Dimitri has zedman240z has for sale is the perfect base, 260z with no structural rust just some minor cosmetic rust in small places is the perfect project for a father son team, some assembly required aka learning how a zed goes together so you both have a good understanding on how to fix it etc. If I lived in Melbourne still and was looking for a father son (if my 8 year old was keen, my 6 year daughter is more likely to be keen) then I would find the $$$ and purchase the car from Dimitri. But by all means look at all the cars posted on the links in this thread but I personal think you will go back to a solid base like the one Dimitri has...a good deal really you can even work out a payment plan on the fully rebuild l26 with Les, I am sure while you assemble/learn putting the zed together. Well that is my 2 cents worth.

Your local you tell me I am free from breakfast until 3:00PM ish depends on how far away from the airport I am really. David shame, maybe next time when I actually have work t do in Melbourne aka will be in town for longer. But Lockie and I will thinking you while we shot the breeze.

Hi all, I will be in town on Sunday the 20th of January for just the one day on my way back to NZ after a business trip to one of our offices in Europe. I have to be at the airport by 4:30PM for my check in but am free anytime before this and I will have a rental car to get to whatever destination in Melbourne. I actually get in on the 19th after the last flight has departed to NZ so I am getting the last flight on the Sunday So who is keen for a catchup lunch? Cheers Mike

yep and that is right up there as the don't come much later than yours as far as build numbers go as I believe the last number as RS30-021384

Having owned just about one of every shell, early 240z, late 240z, early 260z and late 260z there are many differences. Most of these have already been pointed out. There are some pluses to these later/last shell 260z 2 seaters. One is they are stronger with longer and larger chassis rails, stronger rear strut towers...sure this does make them a little heavier but we are only talking around 50kg. Window regulators are the same as the 2+2 so are easier to get over the early 260z 2 seater which is unique and hens teeth. I modified a set of the later window regs to fit my early 260z for this reason. My late 260z is just a few numbers below this one and this one is within the last few 1000's built for rhd export so who ever buys this will get a good car that is much rarer than a 240z simply due to low numbers produced. Good luck with the sale and if I had the $$ I would buy and ship to NZ as personally I prefer the late 260z 2 seaters as they already have all parts you need, larger struts, r200, volt meter etc. Other differences not pointed out are Larger fuel and return lines Different rear floor/spare wheel well and therefore different fuel tank Different door window frames with a seal on the top of the frame Different 1/4 glass front seal They have the stronger TC rod mounts Stronger front cross member Larger radiator and larger radiator support panel Front strut towers are slightly wider apart (around 10mm so 240z strut bars don't fit) Wiper arms are black not chrome Wiper arm cover panel is different as the shape of the top of the firewall is different, I am lead to believe this is due the different shape so bonnet pins can be installed without mods and the bonnets have a pressing that matches this for the holes for the pins. As pointed out loom is different and the fuse box is located in a recess on the right hand side foot well. Accelerator pedal is stronger and does not bend like the earlier items as it has a larger box section under the pedal That is all I can think of for now.