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NZeder

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  1. I understand and respect that and it makes sense. I am sure this is why we don't see online info on MG with factory fitted webers etc Jason with your rules in Australia you should race Nissan/Prince Skyline GT-B factory fitted with 5spd, lsd, triple dcoe 40 webers and raced in Australia and New Zealand in the 60's.
  2. Well here in NZ under Schedule T&C rules any period mod is permitted (just need to prove the mod was used in period) so we are lucky if you run under T&C. Sometimes the issue is the class organisers making the S30 an invite only and some that means not invited so we don't have an issue with Motorsport NZ (our CAMS - sometimes call MNZ) Under the Schedule K rules the cars has to be "the car" if a modified race car or a "standard" car as first purchased - as a result Schedule K is not that popular here in NZ but there is rumours that might change with more event/series organisers starting to cater for these cars. Alan - do you have any period photos or photos of period cars you want/could to link/post here. I respect your copyright of the photo you have taken on your many trips to Japan. Unfortunately I can't find any photos of S30 racing in NZ until the mid 80's - but I will keep looking.
  3. my guess is that is why your moustache bar fractured due the solid lower diff mount - something got to give. I would go for a stiffer than stock lower diff mount - then a RT diff top mount - but put a bump stop on it and have it set to just touch/compress when the lower mount is done up. This way there is still some movement so not all the load is transferred to the moustache bar. Or I have seen a chain in rubber hose replacing the top strap work very well.
  4. my question would be this (and I would also do as Lurch pointed out) Does your car run a solid front diff mount?
  5. There is some good info on theroaringseason.com this has lots of info on different racing from all around the world - some good stories, some excellent period photos of cars etc. Ok so now other forums a side. Back on topic. In the USA it was well know Dealers installed lots of things to improve their margins - aftermarket rims, BRE supplied front and rear spoilers all dealer fitted before first purchase. So we need to find someone in the USA who purchase a car with all the mods you require and has these listed on the sales receipt that is still legible some 40+ years later. Yet the MG guy does not have to prove anything to fit his weber?? How is that fair?
  6. Has anyone written to Nissan in Japan asking for and info they have on the sales documents? 40 years on a long shot but better than no shot. I have a magazine article from the 70's that the publisher takes the office car a 240z and purchases lots of items from the sports option catalogue installs them then write the article about how the car is transformed. I need to find that again as I think it has a copy of the sales receipt but not sure if my memory is correct.
  7. Here in NZ we have a few different classes to build a car to. If you are interested the rules can be found on Motorsport NZ Manual appendix 6 (or s.e.x as you think we say it) Most classes are T&C as this was created in the early 90's I believe and allowed for a bit of scope of modifications - however over the years a number of people took the words "free" too far so Motorsport NZ over the years have tidied up the rules and clearly defined works like "free", "era" and "period". So given we can use FIA papers, Catalogues/Option lists, sale documentation, and even "period" magazine articles we are lucky under T&C. But as stated our T&C rules have been tightened up over the last few years for example it now states "All panels, bumpers, mouldings, spoilers must be made of the original materials as per STANDARD series production vehicle e.g. steel panels must be maintained if originally fitted" it also states only rear spoiler fitted are permitted - so no factory/dealer fitted front spoilers. This has changed to this same rule about 18 months ago that states almost the same but added "original materials maybe substituted for alternative materials if original materials can't be sourced". So 2 years go you could have fibre glass front guards but today you can't. If you read the Schedule K rules this is like your Sx (ie SB, SC) rules - cars must be one of 2 things, this is how I read it, the schedule K cars are either standard cars as left the factory or "the" race car from the day in the same config as it raced in the day with the correct parts from the day. This does not mean you can build a replica of "the" car and run in schedule K - it has to be the correct car. This is how I read schedule K. If you build a period replica it can full under either schedule T&C or schedule CR. Schedule CR is for replica's or retrospective replica's (a retrospective replica is a car that could have been built and run in the era in question - but again must use all the correct parts from the era in question). There have been cars locally in NZ that have been granted schedule K status and even FIA HTP papers but are a fresh built race car with no history and with mods our side of the era - ie wilwood calipers, suspension and body works mods that were never used together on the same model of car - ie the suspension with standard body work or standard suspension with body work mods but not the modified suspension and body work mods together in the era. So even forgetting schedule K rules it should not be granted schedule CR either as a replica of given car - it could be classified as a retrospective replica - it could have been built like that in era but never was. If you want to know it is a German car but not a rear engined one. My new 260z race car is all steel, does not have spoilers, currently fitted with RB as I purchased it but that is making way for a more period correct L28 - and under T&C I can run triples on this - engine is "free" ie if the mod was available in period then I can use it. And I can also increase the cc 12.5% so 2753cc + 12.5% = 3097cc aka 3.1L however at 3.1L you move up from the under 3.0L class and run with V8's so better to keep it under 3.0L. Wheels are factory fitted + 1" and must be in the standard body work so 15x8 it is then brake are "free" ie if available in period I can run with that. Now that is where it gets interesting. The way I read the "free" and other definitions as stated - if available in period and I can prove it was fitted to the model in question I can run with it. Now I have spoken to one of the organisers of a class and they are allowing Wilwood calipers on the following grounds Wilwood purchased the rights to JFZ at some point (then sold them on later to Sierra) - JFZ were available in "period" so Wilwoods can be used as a replacement - this class does not allow mono block calipers even if available in period. (I have done a bit or research and can't find any proof that jfz and wilwood did come together. However I did find out the owner/designer of jfz was the brake engineer who worked for airheart/hurst and designed their 4 pot calipers the team/department he worked for was then joined by a young Bill Wood aka wilwood so that is how it all connects.) Now I don't 100% agree with that - but I am going to run with that. Now I know AP were fitted in period to the S30 (Datsun Competition in USA had lockheed and 11.75 or 11.5" rotor 1.1" on their option list) also I know SuperSamuri's were fitted with Lockheeds from Landrovers, and the FIA sumitomo Mk63's. Then BIG SAM was fitted with CAM-AM brakes in 74 - now I can't find out what spec 73-74 CAM-AM brakes are but I know AP's or Girlings were used 17/4 or something and rotor size I guess would be 11.75" x 1.25" ie under 15" rims as that is what BIG SAM had. So back to class that is allowing Wilwoods - this is what gets me - I have seen a car built to the new class rules (which is meant to be T&C but with the we allow Wilwoods) but it has 6 pots calipers - now I don't think 6 pots were ever available in the era in question ie pre 31 Dec 1977. Again not that it bothers me - but if you are going to follow a set of rules at least be consistent. If they get tough on brakes I either fit the FIA approved stuff or historic AP which can be purchased new still - however they are a monoblock so if they are going to be tough then I will argue they are "period correct" vs wilwoods etc. So I guess we are lucky to have T&C for modified classic cars.
  8. HS30-H has some excellent knowledge on the period raced cars in Japan so lets hope Alan will share some info that is considered public knowledge or should be public knowledge. Like wise with any Ozzie have info on s30's that raced in Australia in the 70's that would be great. So far the first date of a s30 competing is 18th Jan 1970 - which I assume was the Japanese Grand Prix - I have a book at home showing pictures of the Z432-R from this event - however as these are the copyright of the publisher I can't post the images here - so guys please respected the copyright owners and seek permission on posting images - I am not a copyright lawyer so not sure what the legalities are around linking to a picture already hosted on other sites. Common things we know. 1. Nissan had homologation papers 3023 and extensions for the s30 in 2 seater form - does anyone know the number for the 2+2 2. Via these papers the sumitomo MK63 4 pots were approved for use in non-vented and vented form. 3. R180 and R200 in a number of ratios and LSD were also approved via FIA papers. 4. Nissan had a sports option catalogue that listed items like the LSD, suspension, 4 pots and these could be ordered from the Dealer I believe the issue with the Historic SC class in Australia is you need to prove these items from the sport option catalogue could be installed on the car before purchased for the first time? I understand the Porsche boys have original sales documents for their sport options parts that show they were fitted on to a car on first purchase? This is the issue the s30 have with the SC rules no one has proof the parts were fitted before the car was first sold? So they were always added post purchase?
  9. Ok this stuff on racing in period, historic class is a little of the original posts topic - so I thought I would start a new thread to get a discussion going on period mods etc as this does interest a number of us - no matter what side of the ditch we live and race on see here S30 - Racing and Period mods
  10. Guys thought we should have a new thread - maybe a sticky? The concept of this thread 1. Share info on period mods to the S30 2. Post period and early 80's pictures of race cars for reference 3. Discuss current class regs and how the s30 fits in them. So if you have info to add or know anything that will help fellow racer build a car to suit class rules this is the place for it
  11. What CDI box did you get in the end? MSD, Crane, Mallory etc? I too have recently received something for sparks from the land of the rising sun
  12. well here in NZ most of these heads end up as scrap these are easier to find than n42 and here the p90 is like hens teeth, I have only seen 3 p90 in 20+ years but many many more 05L
  13. good to know Simon I think VegasZ31T might have meant to say a S12 - aka Gazelle now they have a longnose R180 or R200 fitted depending on the model/motor/trans setup. I should one day make a list of what ratio is found in what car/engine combo - I have most of the info just need to sort it and put it in one place. aka if you want a 4.6 R200 then you need to find a Y31 aka Cima/Cedric or the SY31 (a Taxi model made right up to 99 IIRC) as most of these have that ratio in R200 longnose form.
  14. S13 have short nose R200 or R180. The R30 and R31 Skylines JDM version have IRS with R200's most of the Australian Assembled R30/R31 have a solid axle. The common R30/R31 ratio is a 4.11 - the 4.375 is only used on the last of R31 JDM models and manual RB20DET versions if my memory is correct.
  15. NZeder

    the last engine

    See the learning never stops. Someone once told me "the day you stop learning is the day you die" So I say let the learning continue.
  16. NZeder

    Camshaft bolt

    I believe the Haynes manual 240z/260z one has the incorrect setting listed. I would go with the advice already posted.
  17. Who....what....geez I don't visit for a week or 2 and look what happens. I won't get into details but we are all still learning about these cars and L6 engines even if you have been playing with L6 for years we can all still learn from each other
  18. Happy birthday - 40th hhmm welcome to the club..well some of use depart this year
  19. you crack me up Simon. I have friends....well ok one that I know would want a copy too.
  20. I would take 2 copies.
  21. Again depends either were installed on the 240z default was clear tempered and option was tinted tempered. So go for the look you want.
  22. not bad for a 2 valve head will be interesting to see the NC head setup with this bottom end
  23. I believe the Japanese did in the mid 80's. But it was very very costly and the results back then did not match up to the investment of time and $$. L6 head development has moved a long a bit since to 80's.
  24. The stock issues relate to the older inductive loop setup that 240z and 260z have. Given your zed is a S130 and was fitted with EFI from the get go it might have a negative side coil triggered tach, I can't recall......I might have to look at wiring diagram to confirm....will edit this post once I check the S130 service manual I have here. EDIT: Ok checked the wiring diagram. The S130 does have a modern style negative side of the coil tacho setup (aka non inductive loop). So it should work fine. The wire is blue (L) from the negative side of the coil to the resistor then it goes from that as a (LgW) light Green with White?? or does that mean Blue with a light green and white tracer??
  25. John, good to see you will soon be back on the task. I wish I could say the same Still keen to see what you do re Windows regulators - as you might recall my new 74 260z project I purchased was missing the window regulators, I do have some 240z regulators but they are slightly different + the cage cross bars are in the way of the crank handle. So I am dead keen to see what you do given your 2 seater is the same shell aka same doors - so I can copy what you do Mike
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