gav240z

Been flipped a couple of times.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/NDfi7V7Ql9KyBp5j1

Yeah loved the video, what number is this car? Being a 71 and 903 Blue (rare colour) just want to check I've recorded it. Blue is like 3-4% of all cars accounted for so far!

Wouldn't want to accidentally hit the accelerator and have a Ferris Bueller like moment.

Quick bump!

Is this not the same gold 2+2 that was recently auctioned? GRS30 016319 Being sold by a Robert in Gosford (car museum related perhaps?) https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Datsun-260Z-1977/SSE-AD-5535427/

eBay Store. https://www.ebay.com/str/JDM-CAR-PARTS-SPECIALIST?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

No wuckers, the balancing I've seen involved having the pistons, conrods, wrist pins all apart and measuring each item individually that's all. I saw you had kept your piston's and rods connected, hence why I wasn't so sure. But if you've been instructed otherwise by an expert then that trump my opinion of such things! It's probably less of an issue in a street motor than track engine too!

Superb, loved it and 903 Blue to boot!

Jeebus, I certainly hope not!

Jeff I know you're talking about engine balancing at 13mins mark, but honestly if you're going to try do that I'd recommend these courses here. https://www.hpacademy.com/ I've gone through the first series (Engine Building Fundamentals) and bought the second (Practical Engine Building) - still have to watch it, but super super helpful... And I see they have a cam dialing in video now woo! https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/how-to-degree-a-cam/

I would have to take it out of it's sealed box LOL I put the small port on my 72 240z. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HdvZdBDupPxjGZgt6 I did measure my small port on the 72 240z when I had it, but I can't recall the sizes now. To quote @Lurch

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/caboolture-south/cars-vans-utes/datsun-280zx/1189033372 Tidy looking S130z

https://www.msn.com/en-au/motoring/news/jaguar-e-type-found-after-35-years-in-a-shed-to-be-sold-at-auction-without-reserve/ar-AAzGtkJ?li=AAgfYrD

Just to make sure it wasn't a fluke, I have 3 other Jeco's here (2x 240z and 2x 74 260z clocks). There all working happily now. First image is the crud that comes off the gears when using the q-tip to clean them (with your favorite alcohol based cleaner). NB: The black stains on the end... clean until you don't see anymore of that! Here are the sweet spots to clean (first with alcohol). Then lube with WD40 after. I applied a very small amount of WD40 just little dabs. Once it's on the gears, I push the gear (big white gear) with my finger (down) - same direction as arrows in this photo and let the WD40 runs through all the gears. Then I apply power to the motor to see if it can spin freely on it's own or not. Once your satisfied the motor is running well and doesn't stop after a few minutes of running on it's own. You can put the clock assembly back together. So far the only clock I haven't revived is the later 75+ clock. I had a quick look but the internals are different. So will have to read this guide.

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s592372859 S20 engine head, looks fixable, strange damage! Perhaps it was dropped? 1,000,000 yen (AU$12,800.00) 6 days to go.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-intake-manifold-kit-l-type-44mm-l6-rod-type.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-intake-manifold-kit-l-type-50mm-l6-wire-type.html I haven't measured both ends, but I have a small port in the box here. Haven't unwrapped it yet. I think seller "happy_pizza" on Yahoo! Auctions sells them at a slightly better rate than RHDJapan.com but it sort of becomes a much of a muchness price wise once you factor in broker and shipping costs etc.. You can also find an assortment of old used L6 manifolds on Yahoo! Auctions for L-series engines, many different variations over the years. I personally don't see the need for the Jenvey manifold unless you plan to go with their EFI set up.

Depends on what you want to get out of them! No experience with Jenvey, but I know @Zedman240® had the EFI hardware on his L24 powered 240z and I went for a ride in it. Link here. They seem to have plenty of grunt and it was only an L24. He removed all the sound deadening in the car, so it's very noisy in the cabin. As for OERs I have heard mixed things about them in terms of casting quality. I believe the earlier "SK's" were better, but haven't had first hand experience. You might want to ask Josel in SFO about his experience moving from 44's to OER 47's. Facebook profile here. He rebuilds carbs for fun Sidedraft specialities. When I asked him why he was getting rid of his Mikuni 44's, he told me that for the money he got selling the 44's, he could buy a brand new set of OERs with manifolds etc.. and have some change left over. He cited the OERs as being superior because you can make many of the adjustments to accelerator pump etc.. with the carbs still on the car. With Mikuni's you need to remove them to adjust etc..also the take weber jets. For me I like my Mikuni/Solex carbs because they are period correct, will hold their value (and may increase over time) and my experience with them on my own 240z has been excellent. I love them!

Well it's been running for more than 48 hours and basically keeping perfect time. 1 thing I should mention is that when you apply power to the motor (with the assembly removed from the housing) if you see any minor movement at all, then it's likely your motor is ok and it's just gunk gummed up on the gears, however if you apply power and see 0 movement inside the gears, then it's probably cooked and you have another problem. Frankly I'm surprised by how well this clock is working, I felt like I only did a minor clean!

Still pitted, my timing cover was done and where the water pump goes there is slight corrosion and it's still there after the process, it just looks nicer :). The only way to remove it would be possibly tig weld, then sand down and then blast? Attached is an example of 1 of the 44 bodies I had blasted. This was a rough body I got cheap (incomplete) as a bit of an orphan carb. The damage is on the velocity stack side so not going to be a problem with sealing against a manifold. So it should be ok, but you can also see some light surface issues on the carb body outside of that. These imperfections or deep scratches etc.. still show up. The process is quite gentle on the alloy itself, but scrubs away all the crud and grime (I had already done some ultrasonic cleaning of these carbs before they were sent off - not all of them, but a couple) and the finish after vapour blast is just superior in terms of how good it looks. Before vapour blast SUs. Before ultrasonic clean 44 body. After clean + manual scrub (using toothbrush etc..) to get into all the cracks and using a scribe to remove crud stuck on in those wells.. As you can see it cleaned up ok, but it wasn't the finish I wanted. The finish I wanted unfortunately cost over $600.. oh dear..I am actually planning to run the SUs and rebuild them first, but I figured it made sense to send a bunch of stuff off for blasting all in 1 go. I actually have more parts I'd like to get blasted however. I'm looking forward to seeing how the Nissan 2400 OHC cover turned out, when I got it was painted black, then I used paint stripper to remove it and now I want to see it "restored".

I'm not 100% sure on media. Might be glass, I got @Lurch to use his guy. Apparently he is the best. Others don't get the same finish. I was happy with the E31 head and valve/timing covers he did. I was going to use a mob in Sydney but decided why risk it? And went with someone who I knew did good work. I also had the intake manifold done and my Nissan 2400 OHC cover. The fasteners are also getting replated for the SUs.

Vapour blasted SU's and Mikuni's...

Shannon's covers the RX-2 https://www.shannons.com.au/club/video/mazda-rx2-shannons-club-tv-episode-104/

Tidy looking 240z (901 from the look of it) in NZ with red interior. Start price $34,000.00 (reserve not met) https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1688857257&tm=email&et=45&mt=7F1F0D31-C106-4483-BC9A-C7464ADF110F '

Datsun 260z 2+2 $12,000 Neat 2+2 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/inglewood/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-2-2/1188835168 Could be a good buy as it looks like it's on the home straight.