gav240z

Rusty looking early S30Z. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b319846089

So it's been running most of last night (think the missus knocked it early this morning and stopped it because the wiring became disconnected) but it seems to be keeping excellent time and ticking away on my desk (I reassembled it). Anyway here is a couple of photos as to what I believe stops these clocks. It's hard to see with the naked eye, but you can just see this gear on the underside in my video at around the 6 seconds mark. I used a q-tip and a bit of acetone to try and clean the dirt / grime off the gear (probably methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol would be better but it was locked in the garage). So I tried to clean these gears as best I could, then added a very small amount of WD40 to the assembly to help lubricate it. I've heard of folks using sewing machine oil, but oil will attract dirt/crap and cause other issues later, so you want something that will lubricate but repel dirt and crud over the longer term. I'm not sure if WD40 is great for that or not? Ron from www.zclocks.com recommended marine dry lube. Which I'll have to get from somewhere like JayCar I'd imagine. I sort of knew it was a stuck mechanism preventing it working because I tried to move the big white gears (be careful not to damage the gears on them as they are fragile, so I just used a finger nail) and it sort of ticked over a couple of spots then stopped again and when I applied power to the motor I could see a tiny bit of movement in the clock, so I knew the motor was probably good, but it just couldn't overcome the friction to move. I suspect many of these Jeco clocks have a similar issue. However broken gears would be more of a challenge but @monkeyman has built gears for the later style Rally Clocks and 3D printed them, so might be able to help make the gears for these if there was demand. I did notice a resistor in the assembly so that could be another failure point, but the problem for these clocks from what I've read is dust and in an automotive environment you get a lot of it. The housing isn't exactly air tight sealed between the housing, bezel etc..so that's part of the issue. Also as an FYI, it turns out the Jeco clocks don't have a points system like the Chevy clock video I posted above. So can you tell the difference between the Quartz clock and the older style original Jeco clock? For the concourse conscious types: Yep 2 ways. 1. Listen - The Jeco's original mechanism has a constant ticking. Where as the later Quartz ticks periodically (like every 10 seconds or so). 2. The adjustment knob will feel different. The original spins relatively freely, but the Quartz conversions you can hear the gears spin as you adjust the clock (more resistance). I'm going to play with a few more clocks I was given in part exchange for some ones I had converted to Quartz a while back and see if I can get them working. It's quite fun waking up old hardware after a long slumber. If I find a complete dud of a unit, I'll probably try the Quartz conversion on it. PS: Does anyone have a good method for removing the clock hands without damaging them? I used a business card flat against the face of the clock (to prevent damage to the face) and a credit card to pry the needle off, but it did slightly bend the ring section. You can't tell once it's all back together unless really looking closely, but if there is a way to remove it without damage (I'd imagine a wheel pulley of some sort would be useful). Then I'd love to know! Photos attached of clock gears under microscope showing contamination issues. Courtesy of @zclocks.

In there like swimwear. The boss will get over it. Eventually.

Note to self, look at updating database to support emoji characters. Notice this issue when commenting over mobile in particular.

If she gets mad and you need to offload it...

That wasn't Len Brennan's old 260z was it?

Great success, a wah wah wee wah.. A little WD40 and some encouragement and away she went. Not sure how long for, but will let it run a while now. I was going to do the Quartz conversion on it, but seems a shame if the motor still works.

Oh man, I was tempted too! So glad you sold it.

@hmd been done before. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Principality_of_Sealand

I think something like that could be created. Just need to find the time to set it up etc..

Worth watching this 1. 1971 Datsun 240z - HLS30 31872 CURRENT BID: $18,000 ENDS IN: 7 days https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-56/

Hmmm I feel like we need a better format for this, perhaps a description with each link saying what parts they supply. I know I've probably got a bunch to add to these lists also, many of which are in Japan (not just US based suppliers).

I'm not sure they are genuine, I bought 1 and it didn't come in an original parts bag as listed. Expensive for what it was...

Yes it's awesome to see fellow members help each other out.

Interested to see what car he has bought and hopefully he gets back without issue now!

SSL enabled for the forum section (not homepage). Which means pages should be secure.

Thanks for that, on 1 of my gauges it had fallen off, but i couldn't see how on the other I pulled apart. I have a dremmel tool - so should be able to grind it down that way.

Yes it's a Skoda but I watched the engine teardown and this video and now want to watch all of them!

Sounds like fun I'd love to go also haha. I reckon the purple car is not bad either. Diamond in the rough, shame about the sunroof but a 2+2 turret might be easier to locate! Both look relatively rott free.

260z 2+2's in Alice Springs. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/alice-springs/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z-coupe-2-cars/1188456297

A few HS30's. Lovely looking Fairlady 240ZG with nice Magnesium Watanabe Wheels. http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/NISSAN/FAIRLADY_Z/700980003830170723001/index.html However here is: HS30 10104 http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/NISSAN/FAIRLADY_Z/700020034830180220001/index.html

Wheels would look even better in black!

Copied from somewhere else. If the franchise ever features an S30Z, watch out!

Hi Folks, Just looking for some tips on how to separate the gauge diffuser, lens and bezel from 1 another on the AMP gauge. It appears the diffuser is glued in and I don't want to damage it removing it. Anyone got some tips? Hair dryer perhaps to soften the glue? I need to polish the lens, and paint the inside of the diffuser (refer to pics).