C.A.R. Posted May 7, 2010 Posted May 7, 2010 Good stuff mate! Looks like we both might be one the road at the same time... Quote
reverendzed Posted May 16, 2010 Author Posted May 16, 2010 Countdown is on! My son Benji was able to get new H4 headlights all done, new ignition,new gauges wired in and after some frustrating time with the park lights now has everything electrical working 100%. I'm hoping now to get all of the final 'fiddly bits' done this week including exhaust. Quote
mossy Posted May 16, 2010 Posted May 16, 2010 Nice one Rev, the gauges look great, did you use the headlight harness upgrade from the US for the H4 conversion? Quote
benny Posted May 16, 2010 Posted May 16, 2010 Hey Mossy, No upgraded harness just plug straight in. If they suffer from voltage dropping i'll just put a relay in!! Ben Quote
matt drago Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 Hey Ben, if you want, I think I can dig up the circuit diagram that Dad and I put together based on a few sources off the net and a few minor tweaks to integrate relays into the headlight circuit. Was a fairly seamless integration into the original harness. I didn't upgrade the headlights, just wanted to get the load current of the stalk switch points. Cheers, Matt Quote
NZeder Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 Here is my wiring diagram for installing relays into a AU/NZ 260z this is based on the standard wiring setup with the passing/dimmer relay etc. Hope this helps - I did my wiring this way as it required min mods to the stock loom. First is the stock wiring. Then next is my mod diagram. Quote
matt drago Posted May 18, 2010 Posted May 18, 2010 Sorry Ben, Cannot find the paper work. I'll see if Dad has it, but don't like my chances. Sorry once again. Quote
reverendzed Posted May 21, 2010 Author Posted May 21, 2010 Here's a bit of an update. Interior is now finished other than some wiring with the centre console. Mounted spoiler, mirrors, front FG bumper, bonnet vents, painted fuel tank and trying to fit rear bumper which arrived with no mounting points like the front one!!!!!! other than that it has been all the fiddly stuff of reassemble. Tomorrow I will mount rear spoiler and rear bar and make a decision on flares or no flares! then a few minor touch ups,color sand, cut and polish and then off to Daniel Moore for some fine tuning! I feel exhausted!!!! but I know I'll think it was all worth it when I go for a drive Rev. Quote
Dandaman Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Hi Rev, Looks amazing, definitely inspiring me to get some body work & paint happening those mirrors are fantastic, where did you get them from? Dan Quote
reverendzed Posted May 21, 2010 Author Posted May 21, 2010 Thanks Dan - I got the mirrors from a guy in the Philippines. here's a link to his Ebay US page pagehttp://motors.shop.ebay.com/ols_eucs/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg= Quote
NZeder Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 I got the same bonnet vents - got them when the first production run was done - 18-24months ago now. So how easy to fit? I did not like the way I have drill new holes - I am thinking of gluing them in with urethane glue or the like. Quote
reverendzed Posted May 21, 2010 Author Posted May 21, 2010 I use a product called Sikaflex just a couple of "dobs' onto the vent and then seat it in the recess - done! Quote
reverendzed Posted May 21, 2010 Author Posted May 21, 2010 Just found this for sale on ebay, it's like a 'minime' - gives me an idea what the flares might look like! Rev. Quote
C.A.R. Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Go the flares rev, you know you want to. Why? To have the flares look like Pox because the wheels won't fill them?! Quote
lightmaster240z Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 No Rev dont do it stay with it current look. Bruce Quote
reverendzed Posted May 21, 2010 Author Posted May 21, 2010 Lurchos when I dummy ran the flares I had about 1cm clearance, they're wider than you think and I don't think to term my choice as potentially 'pox' is very sportsman like at all! :-\ Quote
MaygZ Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 You have to buy the mini-me!! It will stop you sneaking out to the garage in the middle of the night - just to see how she is It looks awesome without the flares. It might look good with flares too? Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted May 21, 2010 Moderators Posted May 21, 2010 Dave, please put the angle grinder down...put it away..even better give it to me. Unless you arches are riddled with rust, I wouldn't do it. Quote
MR260 Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 Yeah I wouldnt fit flares unless you had to so you could fit wheels etc. The standard lines are much better in my view and theres no reason you cant fit flares sometime down the track if you really want them. Quote
C.A.R. Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 Dave mate - I think you took that the wrong way... Last time I checked those Sportmax rims of yours don't protrude past the out side of the std. bodywork? If you fit flares as it is currently, the wheels won't go anywhere near to filling the full width of the typical ZG flares. It would then look quite silly (poxy?) as you have these wide flares & not having the wheel fill them! So unless you your planning to upgrade to some wider & bigger negative offset rims, please don't fit the flares!!! Lurchos when I dummy ran the flares I had about 1cm clearance, they're wider than you think and I don't think to term my choice as potentially 'pox' is very sportsman like at all! :-\ Quote
NZeder Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 One thing I might point out with regards to flares (I think given I have custom steel flares I can comment on this) for good wide rims/tyres a flare along is not going to fix the clearance issues on the S30 chassis. You need to remove the inner guard to get the clearance required. But if you do this you take lot of the structural strength away from the rear so you have to mini tub the inner guard out to the flare. This is what I have done. Bolt on ZG flares look ok but don't do this unless you cut away the outer guard and move the inner guard up to this new hight. Now with that said you can always do what is done in Japan for ZG flares on lowered Zed - hard hard springs then the tyre does not move into this danger zone of the stock guard and inner guard. So my 2c worth - if you do it tub it. Quote
benny Posted May 23, 2010 Posted May 23, 2010 As it stands the wheels stick out approx 15-25mm out of the rear guard. To obtain roadworthy/police satisfaction flares need to be run!! Because rev is running 245 on the back it pushes it out just that bit further. It doesn't hit at the arch at the moment being that bit out so it should be right, as nzeder said fitting stiffer springs will fix it if needed!! :) Each to there own anyway!! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.