FuFu'Z 240Z Project! 56K warning... too slow.

[sexual_sushi]

you're going down a dark and addictive path... stroker (someone wispers in his ear)...

[C.A.R.]

Stroker = pointless, unless your going to spend 10k+ on an engine build/development.

 

Just my 2 cents (puts flame suit on).

[zzzzed]

god point lurch

[zr240]

Yer im with you lurch.

 

Stroker = pointless

as my non stroker smokes strokers

 

Yer fu just bore it out as it doesnt cost much and will give it a bit more punch

 

does anyone know what the max std piston overbore is (max off the shelf piston size)

 

Also on another note has anyone thought of doing a slight offset grind in the crank to get a bit more stroke?? Or is it another pointless money spending thing :0

 

Ash

[fufu]

I'm agreeing with Lurch and Ash on this matter.

 

The best bang for buck under these circumstances is to bore it out. Stroking it would just be a waste of money and especially it being a street-use vehicle it would also be wasted.

 

I'm quite certain, to go with the n42 head bored out and match ported with a 89mm bored bottom to accommodate flat pistons to get a good compression of around 10.5:1 and hopefully street-able with pump fuel.

 

 

[PZG302]

As Lurch and ZR40 have said don't bother with the stroker, just bore it out and get a set of flat top pistons.

 

Work the N42 head as this will leave some room so you can still use pump fuel with a reasonable but not silly amount of compression as you have said you will do.

 

On Injection this combo gave me a very streetable and torquey L29 and a bit. I could get a way with a 76 degree cam as it was a race motor only and the injection takes away a little of the lumpiness in a cam compared to triples.

 

For cam for the street as suggested before either a 72 degree, or as I have used on a L16 quite successfully a 65-25 grind.

 

I only have a stroker now because thge workshop that fettled my car had one come up in a messy estate paying out bills owed when a cutomer passed away a few years ago.

 

The spare motors I have, the old race bottom end, another N42 head off Ebay, plus 2 complete L28's, 1x N42/N42 combo, the other F54/N42, will all be readied to run at 3mm overbore as flat top pistons are pretty readily available to do this and I will still be using the standard bottom ends.

 

Fu according to the famous L series engine program your combo will give you the following:

89mm bore flat top pistons and N42 head Capacity of 2949cc with a compression ratio of 10.36:1 using standard head ghasket. This will be a very nice motor that will give you years of reliable service.

[fufu]

I just tried the engine program myself.

 

Previously tried but had no clue in how to use it. But after learning about engines recently its become quite easy to use. If we use the E30 head I think the compression would be too high. About 10.7-11? assuming its similar to the E31 head. Premium fuel and still problematic not to mention lumpy to drive? I don't want to push my luck to be honest.

 

Thanks for the input guys, very much appreciated. At least I have some clue now to what the specifications are within an engine. My prior knowledge was fuel + air + spark = bang. LOL Basic diagnoses skills.

 

*EDIT* I've told the engine builder 7000 RPMs max with 6500 RPMs where I want the redline to be so he can balance the engine accordingly . I'm getting the flywheel balanced with it. I bought a head gasket from zshop so i should get it measured as well as I recently found out it changes compression ratio.

[PZG302]

If you are getting the bottom end balanced have it done for a maximum of 7500 - 800rpm. Gives a bit more of a factor of safety. Depending on cam you will get max power around 6800, but may want to spin it to about 7200 to get the most out of the motor on the track, or a quick traffic light Grand Prix It is also worth getting the best harmonic balancer you can. I run a Ross balancer on my motor and no problems in 5 race seasons. Previously we did have dramas with the standard balancer we had to run with the crank angle sensor for the standard computer, but once the Haltech was fitted we were able to swap over the Ross balancer we have had no problems at all.

 

Personally, I have never worried about balancing the bottom end of a L series motor yet, either 6 or 4 and have yet to blow a motor due to any balance problems. I use standard rods and cranks no problems. However I am not chasing huge power, just plenty of torque and taking advantage of the gear sets I have and the light weight of the car, 960kg ready to go, plus me at 100-110kg, and still about 30kg to come out if I reallty want to.

 

The motor will be spending most of its life around the 3500-5500 range so you wantr a nice torque spread for this. Also the motor will "talk to you" in that the the note will change very dramatically when it's had enough. Mine goes from a very nice note to a tortured scream at 7500, definately time to change up. You will also feel when the motor needs the next gear pretty easliy.

[fufu]

I just got off the phone with the fellas at stewart wilkins and they are selling a harmonic balancer for about $480.

 

I think its worth it if it prevents crank failure and potential further engine failure.

 

 

 

[PZG302]

Definately worth it it for a performance motor, especially for a long motor like a L6. On the L4's I have had I was able to get away without one as the crankshaft harmonics are no where near as bad as those in the 6's.

[C.A.R.]

Give Robco a call for a BMW Harmonic balancer, for half that price...

[bluerat]

Lot of BMWs out there Lurch!! which model??

[C.A.R.]

325i IIRC.

Give Rob a call to confirm

[ZED660]

Don't know about Robco's price but the SWR balancer is also a modified BMW unit.

[fufu]

Some goodies arrived today.

 

 

Time to start my weber rebuild.

 

Also due to the recent change in my engine specification. My weber jets will probably go to waste. I'll be using them for the time being until I can get the another set of jets, which will work with my setup. It will probably be really lean until I get the right jets.

 

But essentially I think we can start setting up a weber pool similar to the dellorto pool.

 

6 x 140 main

6 x 135 main

6 x 145 main

6 x 165 air

6 x 180 air

6 x 195 air

6 x 50f9 idle

6 x 45f9 idle

6 x 40 accelerator pump jet

3 x 40 accelerator bleed jet

 

The above setup should be ideal for anyone with a stock L28 with a slightly upgraded cam and a bit of header work. I will add more as i currently have a set of jets still in the webers which i don't have a clue on what they are.

[fufu]

Just got off the phone with the engine builder.

 

His asking for $4300.

They will be porting the heads. Supplying new valves, HD springs, guides. Port-matching inlets and outlets. Pistons, Chain kit, 72 degree Cam.

Boring the engine to +3mm and 89mm flat top pistons.

Balancing the engine.

 

Installing everything back together with the water pump, harmonic balancer, thermostat and gasket kit in which I'm supplying.

 

Is this price excessive? Your opinions is most appreciated.

 

 

[C.A.R.]

I can't give an opinion on price as you haven't given enough info...

[S30Mike]

From what ive seen on the receipts on my engine rebuild, mine had slightly less done then that and cost a little bit less. I wouldnt say its tooo over the top, but depends on the finer details i guess as well. will they be doing the carbs as well?

[fufu]

Nope they won't be touching the carbs. Only the engine.

 

I will be doing the carbs.

 

[NZeder]

Yer im with you lurch.

 

Stroker = pointless

as my non stroker smokes strokers

 

Yer fu just bore it out as it doesnt cost much and will give it a bit more punch

 

does anyone know what the max std piston overbore is (max off the shelf piston size)

 

Also on another note has anyone thought of doing a slight offset grind in the crank to get a bit more stroke?? Or is it another pointless money spending thing :0

 

Ash

I recall reading someone in Japan did this to build a 3.3L ie 90.5mm bore and offset LD28 crank

[gav240z]

Just got off the phone with the engine builder.

 

His asking for $4300.

They will be porting the heads. Supplying new valves, HD springs, guides. Port-matching inlets and outlets. Pistons, Chain kit, 72 degree Cam.

Boring the engine to +3mm and 89mm flat top pistons.

Balancing the engine.

 

Installing everything back together with the water pump, harmonic balancer, thermostat and gasket kit in which I'm supplying.

 

Is this price excessive? Your opinions is most appreciated.

 

 

 

Depends on how far they take the cylinder head work. What parts they are using and their quality.

 

It sounds quite reasonable but yeah as Lurch said perhaps a little vague on detail to make a full assessment.

[S30Mike]

So they will carry out all the requested work, re-assemble the whole engine MINUS carbs and place it back in the car?

 

So essentially you will have EVERTHING ready to go, after you put the carbs on?

[fufu]

They won't be installing the engine. They will have it ready and delivered to the restorers where my car is. The restorer will install it. We will be using my 240z twin su carbs to get it running until I can get the carbs ready.

[fufu]

WOW It's been that long.

 

Anyways a little bit of an update.

Car... still not finished.

 

Yes i dropped the car off in early March to another forum member who promised the world but failed to deliver. Said it would be running in August or September but hadn't had anything done to it till August. Not to mention charging me a premium price for the work done. Quite frankly it felt unjustified because it took forever. Basically don't charge people premium prices if someone else can do it better and overall a quicker turn around.

 

Since it was already nearing to the end of October i was pretty much fed up. Wanted to sell it,the zed, off a few times but Lurch has inspired me to renew my aspirations in the project. "Thanks Lurch"

 

With his recommendations I called up a previous contact Dimitri and he was willing to get it done. Please note that back in March i had 3 other tenders willing to do the work for me, Dimitri was one. My stupidity told me to go with a guy from Geelong/Moolap. Not only was it on the opposite side of town to where all the other tenders were. In other words where all the reliable and trustworthy tenders are located.

 

As forum guideline prohibit me from naming and shaming. It's best to pm me if your wondering who i am referring about. I personally would never take it to him again nor would i recommend anyone else. Play it safe guys contact Lurch. *PLUG!* He will put you on the right path. Whether its electricals or mechanical give him a buzz and he will let you know who to contact.

 

So as it stands most of the year has gone by. What has been done is the gearbox conversion, only costed me double what other tenders offered to do it for. Full bushings kit installed. Steering rack reconditioning.

 

Not to mention from the above, my brakes are leaking and gearbox is leaking oil. *Annoyed*

 

 

 

[reverendzed]

well fu, think of it this way, you've turned the page and started a new chapter and this one's titled "how to finish your Zed without the headaches' - soon it will all be like a distant memory when you're cruising and enjoying the Zed.  Keep going the finishing line is now in sight!

Rev.