Agno

Excellent response 5/7

For the record 40mm carbs are fine... More than fine actually. They run out of puff a little once you go past 5500 RPM but unless you are a track day warrior I wouldn't worry or be concerned, just be happy with the increased low down torque 40s give you compared to 45s.

Out of interest how much did it cost?

Nice pick up Daniel. Also it was nice to meet you yesterday at Sakura Picnic!

Browsing deeper online, the manuals I require are the L20A/L24/L26 service manual and the S30 parts catalogue. It would be nice to grab a 240Z manual but considering I don't own one of those I'm happy to be a bit more patient for that one lol

Hi everyone, This might be a bit of a hens teeth exercise, but I am chasing a 240/260Z service manual... The one that is 500+ pages long. If anyone has access to one or has one they would like to sell please let me know. I have the supplementary 260Z service manual but I really want the full set! Alex

My goodness, me too? The real problem here is that like many people who are so keenly invested in what they do you fail to see the big picture. Yes minor details might be wrong but who cares? He's showing off cool cars to people who wouldn't previously have thought about them, therefore making our cars cooler to a larger audience and more desirable overall. The devil can be had in the detail when they dig deeper, by then his video is irrelevant. If you don't like it just turn it off. It seems simple enough to me!

No, it was the same height and center bore as the original but slightly wider. In all my searching I couldn't find any information about release bearings being different heights between various iterations of FS5W71 gearboxes. I'm happy to be proven wrong though because this is doing my head in! In car: What replaced it:

I don't condone bad commentary of any type, perhaps a more courteous or polite reply to correct his erroneous ways (rather than scolding him) would more than likely result in fewer and less vitriolic responses? I can't guarantee anything though because Youtube is full of awful, awful trolls...

Deep breaths Gav, I wasn't referring to you.

I'm going back to the Wasabi video because my brother just showed it to me. You guys need to grow up. Yes he got some facts wrong but he isn't an encyclopedic fountain of all things JDM and would rely heavily on what the owners tells him. So what if he gets some minor details things wrong at least he is propagating and spreading cool car videos to people who wouldn't see them otherwise, benefiting the whole Japanese car community. What do you guys gain from vilifying or cutting down someone like that so brutally? I love my car, appreciate and respect all the help people have given me along the way and respect the vast knowledge acquired by many on the various forums I frequent. In saying that though I have to put my hand up and say I think there are a small group of S30 owners who are some of the rudest and self important people I have ever had the (dis)pleasure of crossing paths with in the car scene... You know who you are.

Update: I rebuilt the master cylinder and gave everything a good bleed and the car felt great. After taking it out on its maiden voyage however the sh1tty swaging on my ebay spec braided clutch hose failed and I was stuck on the side of the road in the middle of Melbourne. After a tow truck home and a new (locally made and much better quality) braided hose was fitted I went to bleed the system one more time... and the slave cylinder over extended and the piston popped out! To fix this I made a new pushrod out of a cut down and rounded M8 high tensile bolt. Now everything works but it never ceases to amaze me how problematic older cars can be when you disturb the system or try and change parts... All I did was change the clutch release bearing for an OEM bearing sourced from Nissan locally and I don't really understand why that would necessitate a new, longer slave cylinder pushrod. Oh well!

https://www.facebook.com/events/850686655047534/ From the Facebook event: Classic Skylines Australia is cruising to the event, meeting at 9:15 at the Burvale in Nunawading for a 9:30am departure if anyone wants to cruise in before hand from the SE suburbs. Who else is interested?

Hi All, When I took the box out of my car a few weeks back I changed the throwout/clutch release bearing and installed a new pilot bushing into the back of the crank. The car went back together easily enough but now it seems no matter what I do I cannot bleed the clutch hydraulics properly. I have bled the system and I'll have a great feeling pedal but the pedal goes soft and spongy after five or six uses of the clutch until I cannot get the car in gear at all. I have found pushing back on the slave cylinder (pushing the pushrod back into the slave) a few times brings the pedal back but then the same problems happen again after a few uses of the clutch. I have tried pressure bleeding, gravity bleeding, reverse bleeding, bench bleeding the master and also changed the slave cylinder for a new one (same pushrod). For the record the clutch, flywheel, bearing carrier and clutch fork are all the same units as they were all in good condition upon removal. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I followed fellow VicZCar user Adam's guide on his blog and adjusted my valve clearances yesterday arvo... Super easy. https://twofortyzee.wordpress.com/2013/07/17/diy-adjusting-valve-clearances-on-an-l28-and-tuning-hitachi-su-carbs/ After reading his post I summarised the key points into a half page cheat sheet: _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Cam lobe 1 pointing up = Adjust 1, 3, 7, 11 " " 4 pointing up = Adjust 4, 5, 10, 12 " " 2 pointing up = Adjust 2, 6 " " 8 pointing up = Adjust 8, 9 _________________________________________________________________________________________________ 14mm nut = adjusting nut 17mm nut = locking nut Turning nut counter clockwise = loosens locknut or tightens valve clearances _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Intake valves set at: 0.20mm cold, 0.25mm hot Exhaust valves set at: 0.25mm cold, 0.30mm hot _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Be weary that the locking nut can sometimes turn the adjuster when turned (therefore changing valve clearances) so be sure to keep the 14mm spanner on the adjuster when you touch the lock nuts!

if you separate i'll be keen on the carbs. thanks

I have absolutely no Idea Gareth. I've been using them on my car along with Pentire Sin fluid for 4 years now (gone through 4 or 5 sets) on the street, bi-annual track days at Winton and various motorkhanas and I've never run out of brakes or felt them go spongy... and that's on the same pair of solid rotors!

I use Lucas/TRW pads and they haven't failed me yet... especially at that price!

Update I took delivery of the brass shifter pin bushes a couple of weeks ago. They are much thicker than the original plastic items. They are advertised as being tighter tolerances than stock but there is literally zero tolerance. As a result the shifter no longer fit inside of the clevis without me turning down the thickness of the face of the bushes by about .4mm on each bush... Even then it was still an extremely tight fit and effort required to change gear is much higher. I bought the ones listed below: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221965954665?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT While the shift feel is nice I think it's significantly less hassle (and probably cheaper considering how long they last) to stick with the original style plastic bushes. In saying that everything feels great and now I've spent the time making everything fit I assume they will never have to be changed again!

Ash from Moorabbin Auto Spares sold me a trio of redline socks a few years back... and he's a member too! http://www.moorabbinautospares.com/

Gareth if you are looking for a club to join shoot me a PM. I may be able to help

It was pretty damn hot!

yeah... nah

I'll be there but not in my car

Any Repco/Bursons/Supershit should have the tie rods. I bought Wasp branded ones from Bursons last year for $65 a pair (from memory)