neRok

Only taken me 2 months.

Lots of horror stories re Crazy Domains (actually the whole company that owns them and a bunch of other sister companies). Ive been using Zuver for my dirt cheap domains and hosting lately. They are the new budget brand of VentraIP, who seem good.

Did these work good with stock master cylinder, and what did you do with the rears?

Got my 5.7 chev registered with no dramas. I even drove through Karratha There seems to be a lot more RB conversions on here than V8.

Just saw it mentioned in another thread. My 76 260z 2+2 has sill covers with metal plates that say 'sports model' or something along these lines. Is this a legit thing, or home made? Anything special about them? I was thinking of putting those sill covers onto my 75 2+2, coz they look better.

Does anyone read street machine and see the 240z at drag week in the US. Looks pretty nuts, 9.2 street car or something.

Be careful with what chemicals you use on parts you will soon be welding. I remember reading an article or watching 60 minutes or something about a bloke that had used some carby cleaner (i think) and welded soon after, and a little pool of leftover chemical reacted with the heat in a such a way to make an extremely deadly gas. He passed out less than a minute later from memory and was lucky to get to hospital and survive.

I was going to say this too. When that bulb stopped working, you lost a dodgy earth point Had similar things happen in a VS commodore when the earth bolt to the body and all the attached wires started coming loose. Wipers would go when you indicated etc. Funny stuff!

I just went through the same fitting up new carbs (new to me, actually secondhand) . If you have the round top carbs with the fuel bowl on the side, its just 3 screws and you take the lid off the fuel bowl. My needle vavles needed replacing, they were not closing. Yours might be stuck shut? You can just pour some fuel into the bowl and put the lid back on, new gasket doesnt seem 100% necessary. Its not hard to pull the rest of the carb apart and clean it out. Take the 3 or 4 screws out that secure the 'bell' on top. Lift it straight off (there is a big spring under it, which will push against you). Then pull the piston straight up (it has the needle attached to the bottom, so pull straight not to bend). Now clean everything, reassemble (things only go together 1 way), put some new oil in the dashpot (whatever you have, tranny fluid or engine oil etc) and all done.

Power always goes to the ballast, and it sends ~9v to the coil. To aid with starting the car, full 12v is sent to the coil via the keybarrel. This is because when starting, the volts may drop a little and you might only get 6v out the ballast. You can just take 1 of the wires off 1 side of the ballast and move to the other (so both wires are on the same side), so then the full 12v is passed to the coil at all times.

Touche What are you going to do with it now? Sell it, cruise it, daily drive?

Ive just put some twin carbs on mine. The vac hoses are quite basic. You need 2/3 at the bare minimum; - 1 small for dizzy - 1 small for auto transmission (if fitted) - 1 big for brake booster You also have the PCV valve (big pipe) which goes to the breather on the block (sometimes the rocker cover in L28 efi from my research). You may have some extra for any air con and emissions. The emissions gear is likely what gives these carbs a bad wrap, I dont know much about carbs or SUs, but i noticed they are very basic. If you removed all the emissions gear, I cant see what would make a round and a square top any different. At the end of the day, the piston moves up and takes the needle with it, which allows different amounts of fuel in. Unless they have a crappy needle that doesnt let much in, they are basically the same. Maybe the manifolds are different shape too?

Yep, impressive effort. Rim colors look odd though, I reckon all silver.

Im planning to get one from Token Tools. I have only heard good things about them. http://tokentools.com.au/category28_1.htm I was reading if you can weld alloy with DC TIG, and apparently you can. The whole point is to blast of the oxide layer, and you can do this with pulsed DC where the electrons travel from the piece to the gun (I think electrons techincally travel from the neg, so neg to piece and pos to handle). Not a welder so I dont actually know though.

Well I have gone ahead and done it. I purchased a fuse/distribution block, which has 1 stud 'input' and I got one with 6 fuse 'outputs' (come in 8, 10, etc). I haven't mounted it yet, but think I will on the 'side wall' between the brake booster and the window washer bottle. The thick wire from the starter to the shunt goes to the stud, to provide battery power. I put in a new wire from the alternator to the stud. I did not reuse the old alternator wire as there were a lot of connections along it and it went from engine to fender and around, whereas I rewired to firewall and around. I did not connect the alternator to a fuse, as the fuse block said 25amp max per fuse, and the alternator could put out 65+ (mines actually a 120 amper!) Speaking of which, I un-taped the engine bay loom and removed all the coil, oil+water sensors etc. I will run these from firewall to engine too, for a cleaner look. I also removed the few 'useless connectors' from the factory wiring diagram and removed all the external regulator wiring as I have put an internal reg alt on. I will be drilling a hole in the 'side-wall' and run the light wiring through the wheel well, so the only wires in the engine bay will run along the firewall. There were 2 thick white+red wires from the shunt/alternator/stock-fuse wiring that ran into the cab. These got connected to a fuse each, and that was it. Everything turned on as expected, but I havent tested the load of a running car with high-beams etc on yet. Depending on which circuit everything is on, it may overload one of the fuses. If that happens, I will run relays for the headlights to relieve the load, and this will probably work better anyway. There were about 6 other pieces of thick wire that got removed. They connected shunt to fuses, alternator to fuses, etc. I got rid of the shunt, which means the amp meter wont work. I did this on purpose, because I put in a voltmeter that I pulled from my 76 260z (this is going into a 75). I chose the voltmeter because it has a charge light, which is necessary for the alternator I have chosen (a 2 wire bosch). If you wanted to clean up your stock engine bay in a similar fashion, you would connect the starter to the shunt, and the shunt to the stud. The stock wire from starter to fuse is already quite long, so there is no 'disadvantage' if you dont fuse the new starter to shunt wire. I also have 4 spare battery voltage fuses now too, which is handy. With relays, I can easily wire in thermo fans, elec water pump, etc. Too easy!

day240z makes some good points, comes down to the theme you are going for. If you already have EFI though, probably best to just stick with it. Im not sure on the 280zx EFI particulars, but a lot of EFI systems also control the dizzy/timing, which gives greater control again than a mech advance system. You can get things like MSD programmable timing controllers, but that is just more added cost and complexity.

Yer, but the fact that 2/3 are un-fused in the engine bay seems a bit silly.

Tidying up the engine bay and I think I know what is going on, just want some confirmation. Ive studied the RHD 260z wiring diagram and believe the following is happening. Battery connects to the starter, and the starter goes to one of the 2 fuses in the engine bay (white wire). From that fuse (call it the big one), power goes to the shunt (white wire). From the shunt, the wire (white+red) breaks off into a few places. 1 - To/from alternator (and to charge the battery, power must go backwards through the big fuse?) 2 - To the small engine bay fuse, which then goes to the ignition switch 3 - A wire that powers the top-right fuses of the internal fuse block and the passing relay 4 - A wire that goes to the combo switch and then powers the headlight fuses when lights are on (the top-left fuses of internal fuse block). My query is that I do not think the small engine bay fuse is required. The 3rd and 4th wires run considerable distance without fuses, so I cant see a reason for the 2nd to have one so early (there will be fuses later). The big fuse will blow and isolate the battery if there is a problem in the wiring between it and any of the 'secondary' fuses. The alternator is always powering a considerable amount of wire anway, so I cant see this being any more of a problem either. Opinions?

That camaro looks like poo, and people that think ratrods are flat black with red rims and whitewalls are ... check this out http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170926883056?nma=true&si=lQb4WVoLy28qL1ozYaP%2Fjp%2BFM6g%3D&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2557&orig_cvip=true

Did you change the filter? Blocked filter would result in low pressure, just like it does with fuel and oil.

http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/buy_and_sell/for_sale/JCM3253586?parent_page=%2Fjustcars%2Fsearch&search_type_make=&search_type_model=&search_details_earliest_year=&search_details_latest_year=1992&search_details_lowest_price=&search_details_highest_price=100000&keywords=Keywords&search_category=MuscleCar&search_location_state=&current_page=3&item_position=40 260z for 10k. Not sure on engine, 'cause it says v8, then its tubo, then its twin carb, then it comes with spare injection gear? But it has an interesting grill and driving lights at the front. No way, I love the brown coloring. Looks great with a ton of chrome. Some nice HQ-Zs statesmans etc with that color too.

I take it the ignition advance is not computer controlled, sounds that way (why else would you have vac advance). Vac advance isnt for power, it is for economy. If it is leaking, try plugging the hose so there are no leaks and see if you fair any better. The 2 times I have had my L28 running it was also a pig to drive, much like yours. I think it was the gearbox being shitty. I planned to flush the oil and stick a new filter in it, costs little bucks and an hours work. I am not sure if the gearbox has some sort of vac modulator or similar that could be causing problems.

I'm having a great time with the 350 chev in mine. I bought it that way, would have preferred a windsor truth be told. If you read VSB14, which all the states are pretty much following, I think you can swap in engines from the same manufacturer with up to 20% increase in cubic capacity and power of the best engine in the model. So you may be able to swap in an RB with little drama. As an example, VN Grp A commodores made 215kw, so you can swap 240kw LS1 into a v6 executive without needing engineering.

This man speaks the truth. The leads do not have to in the exact position (for example, #1 doesnt have to be at 3oclock), you just have to have the leads on the correct post for the particular position of the crank. So dont bother disassembling anything, just put the leads on to suit.

Here is a good read re L20 turbo into 240z. Also a delco efi conversion to boot. http://delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=998