neRok

i dunno why those 'upgrades' are so important. i read a builup on a guy putting a windsor v8 in his 240z and the car ended up lighter. im sure a chev or holden would only make it a little heavier. but regardless, the weight difference will be less than having a mate in the passenger seat. and these cars are already disc front. look at HQ kingswoods, they came with 350 chev and had disc front too. seems plenty fine to me. over here in wa i bought an old patrol, it says 8cyl and had the engine number matches and that is good enough. someone mentioned you could just send the form in with the v8 engine number and hope for the best, but i think they are smarter than that. i had to change the engine number in my vn v8, sent in the form and they told me the new engine wasnt from my model of car. thats because it was a vl v8 that had been rebuilt. they picked that up, im sure they would pick up someone trying to slip in a 6 to 8 upgrade lol.

i purchased (for a super bargain!) a programmable msd unit. needs a 'plain' dizzy without any advance, so i was trying to work out the best way to do so. i got another MQ points dizzy for cheap so i am going to have a go at locking it out. i spotted on ebay a few days ago an optical CAS style dizzy, but i wasnt sure how this would run with the MSD. also thought it might be good for other people to find a listing easily in one spot.

get a squirty bottle with some water in it and spray around areas. when engine note changed, it because the water has been sucked in somewhere. you might see it bubbling too. some people use crc or other things, all the same idea.

hi, i am interested in the springs if they are still for sale. pm me, i will need postage to wa. also, smartsend.com.au is very good courier, i usually get the best prices from them.

i would pop the fuel line off the pump and using compressed air blow the fuel back down to the tank. do this with the fuel cap off the tank, so the air can get out.

maybe you would be better off reading the factory service manuals, available on this site: http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ the instructions they give to tune the carbs are much the same as the youtube video posted before. timing is dead easy to get in the ballpark. take the rocker cover and spin the crank pulley over clockwise. pay attention to cylinder 1, the one at the front. when the exhaust rocker is almost closed and the intake is just opening, this is near enough to TDC. pop the top off the dizzy, take note of where the rotor is pointing. undo the dizzy retaining bolt so you can turn it. hold the cap loosly over for reference and turn the dizzy so that one of the 'towers' lines up with the rotor. you have now set the dizzy to ~TDC, good enough to get it running. do the bolt back up so you cant move the dizzy, lock the cap on, and stick spark plug 1 to the tower you lined up with the rotor. now put the rest of the plugs on in the correct order. i believe for the L engines, this is anticlockwise direction! that is it for timing, easy as. next step would be get the carby running sweet, but not worry about the idle so much. just fire it up and let it run whereever. focus on adjusting the flow through the carbies and getting the mixtures good. then go back and set the timing. when that is good, adjust the idle on the carbies, and you should be done. one thing that occured to me before is when you checked the timing, did you disconnect the vacuum advance. vac advance moves the spark 20+ degrees advance, ie the timing marker would move anti-clockwise. when setting the inital timing, you set it with the vac disconnected, because you set it ~10-15 advance (not sure on the datsun specifics here, read the service manual). also, my engine has 2 lots of timing markers on it, i presume the ones to use are located on the same side as the dizzy.

cosider sending money via paypal. ive been buying things from usa recently and it works out really cheap. say it costs US$100, by the time its converted to aus$ and they lump their fees on, costs like AUS$98. thats a good deal imo.

hi, im just trying to suss out what dizzys are available for the L6 engines, try get a complete list. so there is the single point dizzy. im guessing this was on all 240z (l24) and 260z (l26) in australia? when i look up pertronix kits, which would be aimed at the US, they are only for 70-73. so was there a change in the dizzy, and did this occur in australia too? what about points dizzys in other cars using the L6 engines. the MQ patrol with the L28 for example, this according to the factory part numbers at nissan4u.com, it had one dizzy from 80-83 and another from 83-87. the second dizzy was also interchangable with a third dizzy, and they are refereced to "HITACHI D609-62". http://nissan4u.com/parts/patrol_r/el_160/1983_8/type_4/engine_electrical/distributor/illustration_1/ so basically im asking if they upgraded anything in these points dizzys along the way, made them better or something? ive then seen some aftermarket twin-point dizzys, from mallory and similar. then there are the dizzys in the efi engines. im a little lost here, but did all 280zx NA have the same electronic reluctor style dizzy. this is the one that can be used on an carby engine, as it is stand-alone. it must have vacuum and mechanical advance. then there is the 280zx turbo electronic dizzy, which is an optical style with no advance mechanisms, as it is computer controlled from what i have read. what about other electronic dizzys, from L20 turbo engines for example?

i found these guys advertising on another forum, http://stackinjection.com.au/ pretty cheap for the v8 gear, and on the other forum they mentioned they could develop something for holden 6, so the nissan 6 couldnt be much harder. @galderdi: what do you need the timing for, ie megasquirt or haltech or motec or other ecm? hall effect is a type of signal generated by magnets that spin, either in the dizzy or on the flywheel or pulley with a sensor.

that postage is a killer, i would be asking for some cheaper alternatives. perhaps the rotors are a standard off the shelf wilwood, so maybe you can just get the calipers and hubs sent over and source the rotors locally. although, for this sort of stuff, local price is usually far higher. fyi, if a package coming into australia is worth more than 1k, customs charges tax on it. so all of a sudden, a group buy isnt so cheap! i am also interested in these brakes, so watching keenly!

you could look at the delco efi setup, can be with our without distributor, would come in far cheaper than the price list mentioned before. also, if you get a delcohacking.net computer system, you can tune with efi-live software, which is free and everyone is using it on a lot of cars like gen3 v8s, so finding an operator shouldnt be hard. i posted some info on this a few months back, plus a L20A turbo worklog from someone else here in aus. i also spotted a sexy ITB setup on a L20B the other day, apparently made by Mark Banyard (i have no idea who he is). http://www.aussiev8.com.au/holden-v8s/40389-just-sak.html#post414627

my 1" had the same size reserviours, which were about the same size as the smaller stock one. when i put mine on, i also swapped the bigger reserviour on for the front brakes, they need more fluid according to the service manual, hence the bigger reserviour.

just carefully bend the lines to suit. i did it on my 260z and also had to do similar on my patrol and havent had a break yet, just do it nice and slow i guess.

bugger, seems i have been jipped. i have no drilled holes in the firewall, just a bit of rust and there is no mounts anywhere near by, on the inside of fender etc. thanks for the tip of the angle frame, hadnt considered that one. think i might just cut my battery tray out to fix the rust and move battery to boot. seems easiest.

hi, i purchased my zed not running and it had a big 4wd battery in it. it was knackered so i ditched it and put one from my commodore in, a more normal size. there didnt seem to be any holes on the outside of the battery tray, so i just hooked the battery clamps around the metal. i was using the tent peg style clamps. took car for its first drive today, as i have pulled up the driveway the battery has slid off the tray and onto the exhaust. lucky i popped the bonnet as soon as i pulled up, just to see how the engine was looking, and prevented a bit of a mess. but now i need to work out a proper clamp. ive notcied on the firewall side of the battery tray, there is a tab with a hole for a clamp, but its 'inside' the tray. is this the normal fasten point, because if so i will need a really skinny battery. the commodore battery is ~17cm wide, i might need to get a small car battery that is ~13cm. but there is nothing at the front that i can see. anyone got some advice or even some photos? if it gets too hard i might just stick it in the boot.

update time pulled the wheel cylinder apart and cleaned everything. it all looked good condition, except the dust seal was a bit ratty, but meh. put it all back together, bled it, seems to be holding up good. so i was done with the rear, went to stand up and touched something in my hand, it was a spring that goes on the end of the piston to stop it bottoming out i guess. doh. ive left it for now, if it fails ill fix it then. moved on to the fronts to replace my pads. think i worked out why i didnt have good breaking before. there was so little pad left that the retainer clips were actually hitting each other! crazy, see the pic. new pads in, bled it up good, now it actually stops properly. so the big master cylinder does work. the pedal is pretty hard, but i have felt clutch pedals harder, so its all good imo. saying that though, you do have to push pretty hard, so here is hoping i dont put my foot through the firewall haha. also, its not the greatest for slowly braking, but it stops quick when you need to. so now this problem is over, i can work out why my car is slow

hi, i dont know a lot about the l28, but generally smaller Ø inlets and exhaust will allow greater air speed into the engine, giving better torque in the low rpm. but being small, they limit hp potential. im putting a holden 5L v8 into my patrol, i asked a very knowledgeable bloke about a good combo to get me all my torque into the low rpm range, like 2-3k rpm, where i think it would be best in my patrol. he recommended staying with the stock manifold and even exhaust (for the airflow reasons mentioned) and just changing the cam. the cam he suggested to me wasnt a standard grind. the lobes were a 'mild' profile, you could say a stage 1 cam, but they are normally ground on 112 LSA for the 308 and he suggested i get it on 108 LSA and install it 6 degrees advance. here is a quote of his logic, you might find it useful. tight lobe centres gives more overlap overlap is what makes torque increase overlap increase torque increase duration increase rpm and hp use small duration eg 218 to keep rpm low and tight lsa to keep torque high small pipes and inlet with long small runners give more torque which is what u want not power no porting needed small is best your on the right track and the guy that recommended this cam can be found here, if anyone doubts his info he is pretty good: http://www.purnellperformance.com.au/

will a normal cap fit? and does it come with the special base required to fit to the block (its different to the points base afaik)

got the injection setup and/or the electronic dissy?

$101 haha. seriously.

@ benny, i want to, but the plan was get this car driving as is whilst i finish off my other 2 cars, then go to town on the zed. so im thinking ill try re-assemble myself, and if all else fails i found a local(ish) joint that will rebuild them and that will cost ~$50 at the most, including a re-sleave. @ Huw, check the supercheap price thread stickied in the parts section.

had a quick play with the brakes on the weekend but caused more problems that i fixed. pulled the front wheels off, no leaks and almost no pads, so ive got new pads to put in. then pulled the rear wheels off, drivers side looked fine and heaps left on the shoes. passenger side had similar amount on the shoes, but everything was wet/greasy. i thought this might be my problem, leaking wheel cylinder. so i gave it a pump, went to the back, no leaks. gave it another pump, no leaks. got someone else to pump and hold whilst i watched, no leaks. one more to make sure, POP, out comes the piston so, not worth the money buying new cylinders, they are a rip! ive read you can get them rebuilt pretty cheap, so i guess that means i can just push the cylinder back in if the seal looks alright (thats what they would do with a rebuild yeah). what you reckon? now the greasy mess in the drum, its oil/fluid mixed with the brake dust obviously. havent studied the manual for the rear IRS, but could this be leaking grease from stub axle or something. is it easy to correct?

was that including the tax and stuff customs charge, which is like 20% for packages over 1k afaik?

Another GM Delco ECM Converted Zed, with DIS! Well, six_shooter on here has an efi turbo 240z run by the GM Delco computer. His build thread is on this forum somewhere and ive read it and he progressed from a distribtor based system to a DIS system. Anyway, a couple of aussies have just put a L20A turbo efi engine into a 240z and whilst they were at it they converted it to the GM Delco computer with a DIS (distributorless ignition system, ie uses multiple coil packs with a crank angle sensor system). The Delco computer is highly configurable and can handle heaps of boost, generally uses a MAP system rather than MAF that i think the stock L efi uses. so it has many advantages and I plan to do the conversion myself in the future. Got a contact oversees who will hopefully send me a LD28 intake that will be awesome for EFI conversion. Anyway, here is the build thread mentioned: http://delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=998 They got the car running yesterday for a track day, but it sounds as though the turbo carcked it and ruined the day.

Hi, just thought i would post some info i know regarding MQ Patrols, because the front diff is the C200. I've been told it's the same centre, ring and pinion as the R200, it's just that one is live axle and the other independent. Therefore, many parts can swap, like lockers and gears! I've been told it's specifically the R200A, not sure if there are a few variants of the R200 or something. I have read short/long nose, so im guessing thats the difference. This will probably effect the pinions that are interchangable, but im thinking the centres will be the same. I will check over my zed service manuals when i get home, see if i can suss this some more. Ive compiled the C200 info I know on this page: http://nerok.info/differential/info With the gears, in Australia the C200 is only in the front, so this will mean they are reverse cut gears, not really what you want in the rear of your zed. The common ratios are (approximately) 4.6 and 4.3, and there are some 4.1 and 4.8. In Europe though, the light duty versions were also used in the rear of the car, so that means those ratios exist in the regular cut. I believe there is also 3.9 ratio. For factory centres, the MQ is only open centre in the front. Oversees, they were available with LSD rear, and people do swap this to the front (confirming the centres are the same). If you want new/extra friction discs for these LSD's, the H233B diffs that are used front and rear of GQ and GU Patrols have the same ones, so they are readily available. There arent many aftermarket lockers for the MQ, but you can get a Lokka, which is mechanical locker similar to a Detroit. These arent too expensive either, ~$500 from memory. I got secondhand front and rear Lokkas fitted to diffs for my Patrol for $700, so bargains are around! Also available is the ARB air locker, although its quite expensive and i doubt useful in a street car. The ARB catalogue also lists other 4wds that the C200 was in, which gives more possibilites for LSDs and gear sets! And some of these were rear diffs, so correct gear directions. You can see some of the options on my MQ website: http://nerok.info/differential/lockers#options_for_c200_standard_front Hope this info is correct and might help some people. Im not a fan of LSDs, my commodore has a spool and my patrol has lokkas. the zed is going to get something in it soon i reckon! anyone know if spools are available, no body has found one for the c200, but maybe for R200 and the diff joints didnt know?