neRok

I happened to be flicking through an old Unique Cars mag and found it in there (as referred in this thread actually).

Sounds like you're onto it, but a couple of other leak points could be the brake booster diaphragm, which is usually evident by air hissing around the brake pedal, and if you have an auto transmission with vacuum going to it, it could also be causing a problem.

Don't listen to this guy!!! 1 stud will line up, and all you have to do is cut the other 3 off with the grinder, and then the wheel fits.

Just put my car up for sale, but I'm hoping to sell it within Perth so someone can keep it registered/on the road without drama. www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/clarkson/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z-coupe-350-chev-v8/1124241471 $15,000.00

Makes sense, cheers. I think I'll just leave it alone like gilltech suggests though!

The area in the red square. Majority of the wires seem to be black. Is this even a factory loom, or remnants of an alarm or something (black wires make me think that)?

I've just painted the radiator support area, and got an area that is 'spotty'/grainy. Just thought I would get the opinion of some pro's as to why this happened? It is the same on both sides. I went back to bare metal, etched, surface+high-build primed, then put on the black. No sanding in between (I don't think this area is that important). My guess is it is overspray from high-build that built up after spraying the vertical surface that is parallel with the radiator.

I'm selling some Nissan factory service manuals, one of which covers L series 6 cylinder engines. See http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/-/122051010424?

I will probably sell my 260z 2+2 soon. It's registered and engineered with 350 chev, and would tick all your boxes. I would have been happy with around $20k, but if people are willing to pay more, then I'll charge more At least that gives you an idea though.

After the blasting, you would get it coated. The blasting will remove the rust, and you will be left with holes/pitting everywhere there was rust. I would get it blasted and primed, because it is only going to cost a couple thousand as you are finding out. Then you can assess it further, and if you decide to sell the car, it would probably be beneficial to future buyers to have it already stripped so they can see what they are getting themselves into (also, you should be able to raise the price a little and get your money back for the blasting).

Don't forget that lines counterpart... "Nothing wrong with it... just needs this 1 thing replaced, which I have a new one of in the box" I sold a car like that on the weekend. I was very upfront about the problems, but the bloke was still concerned regarding the driveline (which didn't have problems). I think his fears were dismissed after he purchased it, and I heard him flogging it up the street

His previous link points to https://mobileworkshopsupplies.com.au/ I notice red76z sells KC Tools. They seem quite good from my experience. My house mate a few years back was a mechanic, and got a full set of KC when he started his apprenticeship. Everything just seemed to work good. I ended up pinching a 1/2 ratchet to replace my sidchrome one that was on the way out, and it is still working great years later. I believe KC and Kinchrome were once the same company.

FYI, mine was engineered and registered with a v8 in QLD, and I had no troubles getting it registered in WA.

Is that reasonably priced? Mine is similar in most regards, but is rego-d and engineered with a 350 chev, and I'm just trying to get a feel for the value.

I know the feeling. I drove my car from Darwin to Perth when there was some big rain in the Kimberley. PS - the car is actually white jk

Very interesting. Do they still use this standard?

Hi, I noticed the thread about headlight wiring, so I thought I would chuck up a few bits and pieces I have been using in order to rewire my engine bay. Maybe they will help someone else too. The filenames are pretty descriptive. The "power circuit" also highlights one of the headlight power circuits (the other is the same, just a different wire color). The arrows on the various images are signaling the + to - direction (not electron flow ) PS - I couldn't upload the full-res circuit diagrams, but hopefully these smaller scaled versions are still legible.

I was reading up on paint stripper the other day, and saw this same advice, however they used glad-wrap and neglected to mention the easier 'cleaning' aspect of it. I wish I had followed this advice, because I stripped the area between the radiator and grill on my 260z, and it took ages to scrape all the gunk out of the nooks and crannies. For what it's worth, I purchased the 450w Ozito for paint sanding too. I figured $10 for the extra power would be worthwhile. And for people dissing Ozito, my experience with them has been a good one. I purchased a big hammer drill which I used to remove the tiles in my kitchen. The cost to rent a hammer drill would have been comparable to the purchase price, but the bonus is I've now got a big hammer drill in the shed for next time.

If I was going all out I would consider LS or something, but these days I appreciate period correct engines and conversions. My 2+2 has a rather stock 350 and it's still good fun (it was built by an engineer in QLD over 10 years ago, and I transferred it to WA with no problems), but I have seen the 302 small block ford windsor engine conversions and think they are a great option.

2.5 turns is not a tune, it's a ballpark starting point. I found this video a good help:

I think you're going about this all wrong. I get that you're all excited to use the new forum software, but it isn't the right tool for the job. You should never have to compromise on the way you store the data, just to fit in with the underlying system. I am willing to whip something much more suitable up, and I already have an idea for the underlying database structure (it's quite a simple project at heart). I propose pre-filling the database with 'empty cars', which information then gets added to as it is found. Owners aren't stored on the car, as that's a bad design decision. Instead, owners are linked to cars, which makes tracking new and past owners easy. There would be a little 'description' field, but not for storing 'history' to the extent proposed now. Instead, historic events of the car would be stored in a list, by date. Don't worry if this sounds confusing, it will be a piece of piss to use in function. And sorting out the various privacy concerns will be beyond easy with the system I have in mind (which will use some very popular open source software). I just need some guidance on the actual vehicle and engine numbers. Someone mentioned the numbers aren't linear, but were produced in blocks. Does anyone know the full range of numbers, and driveline combos etc, to get this info pre-filled? There is no need to limit this to Australian cars, as if the number ranges are known, it's a piece of piss to put them in. Think big! This can be THE z-car register. Also - do it once, do it right! Does Nissan have this sort of old info on file (build info, original sales info, etc)? Anyone got contacts Regarding existing registers, if people can get me a copy of the underlying data, whether it be a database, spreadsheet or html files, I can get it cleaned up and merged in.

I'm just looking for a cheap and efficient upgrade of the suspension. S13 coilovers are relatively cheap and lots of options, plus it seems you can stick the smaller 4 piston calipers from r32 gts and the like straight on to S13 knuckles. So that would be win-win, kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Stubmled upon this blog: http://www.driftworks.com/blog/2011/04/many-ways-to-re-skin-an-aardvark-build-update/

Wouldn't this only be a problem if the distance between the steering arm connection and the pivot point of the knuckle increases? Are you saying it definitely is longer on S13? Another question, what size is the stud/ball-joint on the S30 LCA, or how does it compare to S130 and/or S13?

This is the sort of info I was looking for. Is S130 behind, and hence why the conversion on that model is possible? How about putting the left hub on the right hand side and vice-versa? I can't tell from what few photos I can access at work if the ball joint, stub and vertical arm are symmetrical on the centreline or not.

Does anyone know if S13 coilovers and knuckles will fit into the front of a 260z? I'm hoping for a bolt-in deal, ie no welding, but cutting and drilling ok. I found some threads talking about 280zx, eg: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/76152-s13-coilovers/ and this is for a R31 which is apparently similar to 280zx: http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=S13_Suspension_Conversion but nothing about 260z.