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neRok

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Everything posted by neRok

  1. neRok
    Sounds fairly straight forward. Cheers.
  2. neRok
    Im pretty keen to have a go at welding myself. Any tips for repairing that area? Is it worth spraying something right up inside that tube?
  3. neRok
    I stripped the very front down to tidy some things up, found some rust in the area inside the red square in the picture (not my picture, just one from google showing the area). I am not sure what you call this section in front of the radiator support, but I presume it is meant to be quite sturdy as the bumper etc bolts there, and it's double thick like a 'tube'. Both inner and outer layers are rusting, so I am guessing the inside is very rusty. Does this area rust out often, can you get rust repair sections (or good sections off wrecks)?
  4. neRok
    I dont like the look of the manifold - pushing sh1t up hill! (sh1t = fuel )
  5. neRok
    Need more info. Coil pack - that's not standard! 2 spade terminals to dizzy, that's not normal! Is this a carby or efi L engine? Is it a points of electronic dizzy? If points, pull lid off dizzy and check all the internals are good (rotor, gaps etc, as was mentioned). Check the points (I think from the points) to the condenser wire is good condition. Bypass all the cars wiring for now to test - just use jumper lead from battery + to coil +.
  6. neRok

    Bottom radiator hose.

    neRok replied to MATTY's topic in Engine

    1: Take old hose to parts shop 2: Find one on the shelf similar and acceptable 3: Profit
  7. neRok
    On my 260z, the fuses are just in front of the brake booster. There is 2 of them.
  8. neRok
    According to all the info I read the other day when I went to check my fuel pumps pressure, SUs like around 3psi, whereas Holley carbs etc like around 7psi. So dont get a 'big' electric fuel pump like a Holley Red, they arent suitable.
  9. neRok
    I would just put in a new electric pump. There are some good after-market efi pumps available at fair prices. I would also replace the wiring to the pump. Lastly, check the exhaust around the fuel tank is in good condition. I have seen dodgy exhaust systems blowing hot air all over the fuel tank, which causes it to heat up and vapour lock etc.
  10. neRok
    What happened with this?
  11. neRok
    10 points for me Why not fit a new power wire so you dont need to 'chock' the battery at all?!
  12. neRok
    Too many amps for the wire to handle, thats why they melt. The question is, where have these extra amps come from? Have the battery or main power wires come in contact with the body/engine?
  13. neRok
    http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/applecross/cars-vans-utes/wanted-any-rusty-unlicencd-datsun-cars-cash-paid/1021137041 Looks like someone else wants in on the action.
  14. neRok
    I am chasing the indicator switch (not the handle etc, just the switch part itself, appears to unscrew). Do you have one spare?
  15. neRok

    ITB's

    neRok replied to Zedric's topic in Fuel Systems

    Im not familiar with these carbs. Is the fuel getting injected before or after the throttle plate?
  16. neRok
    Is it mech or elec pump? If mech, just keep cranking. Or start-ya-bastard (which will only run for a few sec, maybe/maybe-not enough time for fuel to get pumped), or poor fuel into bowls and that will let it run a while.
  17. neRok
    If its a project car and you want to learn things, buy a rebuild kit and watch some videos/read some books and fix it. The cost will be minimal, but you will learn a ton.
  18. neRok
    I have 2x260z, one had ammeter gauge and shunt circuit, the other a charge light and voltage gauge. If you have the volt+light gauge, the light can do what the diode does. The diode/light is to provide some load on the internally regulated alternators wire (charge indicator wire if its the sort) so that the alternator can excite (ie activate charging).
  19. neRok
    You can take a look through the last few pages of the MQ classifieds here (or sign up and post, or ask MQ MAD, he has a bunch of L28 MQs): http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-mq-mk-12/mq-mk-classifieds-57586/index59.html I saw an MQ L28 manual gearbox with flywheel for sale the other day: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290898010349&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:3160 That divorced transfer is quite popular for engine conversions in 4wd, so you can probably sell it and get your money back (ie free flywheel).
  20. neRok
    MQ patrol have 240mm clutches.
  21. neRok
    As per title need 260z Volt+Fuel Gauge & Inidicator Combo Switch. I will pay for postage.
  22. neRok
    Have you got the indicator combination switch? I need specifically the indicator electronic switch bit on the back, but will take the whole lot that fits onto steering column if you have one.
  23. neRok
    Looking good! Are your videos pre or post tune? If post, I would suggest taking it to someone who specialises in carbs and/or tuning. You will probably find your 'dead spot' can be fixed with different size power valves etc. They will probably get it cold starting a lot better. Mine hasnt got any choke and idles itself after 15-20sec of holding on a few revs. Jump onto aussiev8.com.au and ask on there, you will get some good advice.
  24. neRok
    Turbo = power adder More/different carbs/manifold = power unleasher Different carb(s) and manifold may unleash some extra potential in your engine if old carb/manifolds were poor condition etc, but they arent really going to add power like a turbo would. This is what pauly_adams was eluding to.
  25. neRok
    jealous much
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