neRok

thats why i got the 1" now, in preperation for a brake upgrade later. no point spending money twice i thought. how much did the brakes cost you to ship? i was going to get the 4 piston front and rear kit with 5 lug, seems very good for the money.

yer, still standard. bleed nipples on my JB1419 are on the LH (inside) also. maybe my bleeding method isnt quite right? i read somewhere that when the master has nipples, you just bleed them and wait for gravity to start dripping the fluid out, so i did that. then i just bled like normal and there seemed to be plenty of fluid coming out at the wheels. i didnt notice anything on the bias valve(s), maybe these need something special, ive never worked with them?

i think i get you. so your saying if you push the pedal with x force, on the smaller cylinder this means the force is distributed over a smaller piston, so more force per area. this allows it to get the pressure up. the big cylinder with the same force applied has it spread over a larger area, so it cant get the pressure up easily, even though it is moving lots of fluid. to get the pressure up to work the brakes, you need the same force per area as the small cylinder, which means applying a lot more force to the pedal. well, thats not very good :'( but it should still work, so im going to try fix it first. i can live with a rock hard brake pedal, as long as the car stops. otherwise im going to have to buy another master, and stick the big boy in the corner for another time. i hope the steel pipes like bending that many times.

ah, wish you had of chimed in with this earlier. ive bought the big 1" master and put it in lol. i had no brakes prior, i have some brakes now but its not good. i bled it pretty good, so im kinda hoping there is a problem somewhere else. im gonna jack the car up and pull the wheels off, see whats going on under them. it also seems i have 2 bias valves or something in the engine bay, there is tubes going everywhere. im thinking of taking a pic, see if anyone knows whats going on. but thinking about the line pressure, how will this change? doesnt the piston within the master just push fluid down the brake line, and as you push more into the same area, the pressure increases. so with a bigger master, i would think you could push the pedal less as it is moving more fluid as it moves a set distance.

i need a rear bar for mine. how much are you wanting, like 50 or hundreds?

are we asking for parts here? im about to get new master cylinder, so what can you do on the 3 possible options. JB1133 - 240/260z 7.8" JB1361 - 280zx S1 15/16" JB1419 - G60 Patrol 1" i also want to convert my dissy to electronic, any chance of a brand new dissy to suit? i havent researched in depth yet, but i think the 280zx s1 is the way to go, or maybe l24e from a skyline? can you get the pertronix kits to convert a points to electronic? thanks.

pm coming soon rb30x i also have an MQ (160) patrol, turns out some of these (pretty rare) also came with the 3N71B transmission. I have a wiki on the MQ patrol, i have hosted the factory service manuals on it and there is a whole section (64 pages) on the auto trans if anyone is interested. its chapter AT (10) on this page: http://nerok.info/general/service_manuals

thanks. i think i will get the 1" master. those AZC kits look the good, tihnk i might get them! so cheap as well, ive just put a similar setup on the front of my commodore and it was $1300+.

i dont really know why/if its better, you could try searching the delco forums, im sure its been discussed. there is a little writeup i found on this forum: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6603.0 delcohacking.net is the australian site making all the good stuff. there is a similar system in the us at moates.net, but the aussie system is newer and seems better/easier. here is a brief rundown of the delco system: http://www.delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=655 they created their own special 'base' tune with some special features in it: http://www.delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=356 to make a live-tunable delco ecu, if you get whats known as an 808 ecm from vn era, you need to add the realtime memcal and upgrade its comm (ALDL) port to either serial or usb output, that costs less than $300. if you get a VR era ecu, you only need the realitime memcal which is like $170. once you have one realtime ecm, you can tune a car with it, then buy a cheap eprom burner, then you can burn chips that can then be stuck into regular (un-modded) ecms. example, i get myself 1 realtime ecu, i tune the efi v8 in my 4wd with it, burn a chip and stick it in normal ecm. then put the live ecm in my commodore, tune etc. save big $ then, and you could even tune mates cars etc (if they delco converted, or even had commodores).

my brake master cylinder is crook, so im going to get a new one. thought i may as well get a big one in preperation for brake upgrades. the stock master is 7/8" (JB1133, $86) and the 280zx (JB1361) is 15/16", a nice upgrade but really overpriced at ~$170. ive found the G60 patrol 1" (JB1419) for ~$150, this is way overkill for the stock brakes but would be better in the future. so, will it be a problem having a 1" master with the stock brakes, im guessing it will just result in a really touchy brake pedal?

its (more than likely) far superior. there are many more driveability features packed into the delco computer than any aftermarket computer. and 280zx is pretty old gear, vn+ commodore efi is mostly all the same (with some tweaks along the way). parts are cheap and plentiful, you can get a tuneable computer for less than $300 and then do your own tuning with a laptop. and theyve now made ways to run 4 seperate tunes that you can switch on the fly.

thanks for the pointers. no problem with the early quokka buys, im addicted to the quokka lol! i read it on the train at 6:30, i ring at 7 when i find good stuff. i scored a holden 308 efi a few weeks back for $350 delivered. the guy said the phone didnt stop ringing all day, he even had people offering him $500 lol.

woops, forgot to subscribe to my own thread and missed the replies. thanks for the links, i will check them sites out. do you guys know any places to get some parts, im hunting here, ebay, gumtree and of course the quokka, but there doesnt seem to be much out there.

reading my MQ manual, 7 is a BCDD valve/unit (Boost Controlled Deceleration Device) which from the description sounds like it richens up the mixture when coasting, because the carby on its own is a bit lean and doesnt get a good burn which produces extra pollution. the solenoid/wire is a cut off for when idling/parked. so i will hook this up to the park/neutral i guess, i dont see any benefit to giving it constant 12volt so its always disables (except maybe save some fuel). with the crank case vent system, 1 goes to air filter housing, and 9 goes to PCV valve, however this is usually located on the manifold just under the carby, you can see a bolt in its position (to the left), not where 4 is now. i think i might just hook 1 and 9 to a t-piece and then stick 1 mini filter on there, or if im real game hook up a catch can.

if its of any use to anyone, i have a wiki on MQ patrols and have for download all the nissan factory service manuals. chapter 2 (EM) covers the L28. im just reading it now, because i have (well had, v8 soon) diesel so never read that part. http://nerok.info/general/service_manuals

thanks, very helpful! i wasnt too keen on those 3 carbs anyway, efi is my goal with this engine because im not to keen with carbs at all. ive already got a v6 commo ready to give up it bits, and ive got a tunable computer in my v8 commodore so it should be easy and effective. 2, 3 and 10, the inlet heating makes sense. ill pretty it up a bit more. you got a bit mixxed up with 4, 5 and 6. your 5 (PCV) is my 4. my 5 is the brake vacuum, its already on its fitting. that fitting has a mini tube comming off the side, im guessing its for the auto which is my 6 (there is a steel line there). i was wondering if thats a good spot for the auto vacuum. im guessing that spot must get good vacuum, else the brakes would be rubbish. 1, 9 and 4, which are the vents, ill just do some mini filter system like you mention. 7, ill research this one, but yer your probably right. 8, choke was my thought. 11, ahh, didnt know that was a radiator i just remembered that the car doesnt have an overflow bottle, where do these usually go? 12, im pretty sure all the auto lines are already hooked up and this hose is still left over. theres no water coming out of it, ill have to inspect further.

hi, ive been looking for months (old intro thread http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7787.0.html) but finally got myself a nice zed. its a 260z 2+2, auto and sunroof that it seems a lot of people dislike (for rust and reliability etc) but ill live with them. its got a L28 in it (N42 block i noticed, and heads N42 too), i thinks it a MQ patrol version as it has single 2 barrel carb. it looks real clean, previous owner reckons it had a 're-ring'. i havent heard it running yet because the guy i purchased from had pulled all the manifolds off. he was going to put extractors and tripple carbs on it, which i also scored with my purchase. but he didnt have tripple carb manifold, so for now im slapping all the old gear back on just to have some fun. ive actually got a few snags with all the lines though, ive got a thread in engine section if anyone can help. seats are door trims etc in the car are good condition. its mostly all black leather with some grey cloth through the seats, looks pretty good. wood grain steering wheel, going to have to swap that it looks like its making splinters lol. dash looks okay from the front, but some cracks on top. centre console has seen better days. hopefully all the electrics and dash etc work. body is pretty good on it, far better than some of the other heaps i nearly bought. needs some fixups here and there, but very little serious rust. just the bottom of the drivers rear fender and the b pillar on drivers look about it. floors look great, i had a good peak under. cant wait to get it cruising!

hi, just got myself a 260z and its been fitted with a L28, im guessing its from an MQ coz its got the single 2 barrel carb on it. anyway, the bloke i purchased it off had ripped everything off that side of the block to put extractors and tripple carbs on, but he didnt finish. so im putting it back together so i can just putt around in it for a while. im usually pretty clued up, but im stumped what to do with all these bits and pieces. #1, a vent type thing, sometimes go to charcoal box or to carby. have neither in/on the car, does it maybe go to #4 or #9? #2 and #3, dont know why i would need so many manifold ports, maybe for when they have 2 or more carbs? #4, looks like some sort of pcv style valve, which is why i thought it might connect to #1. #5 im guessing its for the brake booster, it fitted fine. BUT (read #6)... #6 is the auto trans vacuum, presume for kick down, #5 has a small (smaller than this tube) fitting off it that i think the trans used to be connected to. should i connect here or somewhere else? #7 i have no idea what this is. there is a tube sticking out the front and it has a wire with bullet on the end (might not be original fitting). #8 im guessing electric choke, and it has a spade. #9 some crank case vent, where does it go? #10 i thought would be a heater line, but the heater lines are coming from the back drivers side of the block and to the lower motor to rad point on that side of the block also #11 these must have a fan shroud i must be missing. do these cars go okay with thermos, i have some spare el or au falcon twins lying around. will have to research this. #12 i have no idea why there is a fitting out the bottom of the radiator. im actually right into MQ patrols, ive got the workshop manuals for them, will look them up tomorrow and see what i can suss out myself. just thought i would ask first and whilst ive got a thread, what are these carbs he gave me? any good, and whats a manifold cost?

im looking for my first z as well and am very tempted by that car. if it was over my side of the country i would have bought it already i reckon!

will probably be inflation doing it though.

thanks for that link, i hadnt found that site. thats good news about the weight, im laughin thanks for the good tips on weight reduction galderdi, all the little things add up! 1030 with cage, thats pretty good imo. quick question, does the 1192kg include aircon, was it standard fitment?

i only just noticed the overhang, but it could be this picture deceiving me.

i thought i read that something was a little different in the rear of a 260z 2+2 compared to a 2, longer shocks or something, but i cant be sure, i was doing a heap of reading yesterday, its hard trying to absorb all the info at once. my vn is pretty stripped, no ac, no heater box, not even a hint of a stereo, half the dash gone etc. i think it would be fairly down there, but its still a big car. and i can see the sexiness of a 2 seater, the roof appears to swoop from the windscreen all the way back, whereas 2+2 has sort of bump. actually, im just comparing 2 pictures as i write this, is the 2+2 shorter from the back of the rear wheels to the end of the car, not so much overhang? thanks Zedsabbath, that was my thoughts. i will have to go find your thread Spamaster240z, but im stuck reading the bodywork section at the moment

hi, im getting myself a 240z or 260z, dead set keen on it. not my first datsun though, ive got 2 MQ patrols, may as well keep it in the family who knows, i may discover some awesome swap-over parts that no body knows about?!? anyway, ive been looking around for months, not seen a lot for sale in a cheap price range over here in perth. today i went and looked at a 260z 2+2. i thought i wouldnt like the 2+2 being that its longer, but im pretty fond of it. ive read that the longer wheel base may be better for driving, whats everyones take on this? im a little concerned about the weight of the 2+2. from a quick wikipedia search, a 2 seater is 1 - 1.1 tonne, where as a 2+2 is over 1.3. thats a little on the hefty side. how much can be shed, removing the rear seats and trim and the like. this car is going to be a toy, like all my other cars (i train to work), so functional is the aim of my game. im thinking it should come in pretty light with a lot of stuff pulled out. im going to bomb out the suspension on this car and have a go at some racing. ive actually got a vn commodore that ive done all coilovers, heavy sway bars etc on, but i want a smaller, sleaker car. the Z is filling this spot perfect, but the vn would be weighing in at 1.3-1.4 and thats why im a little concerned about the weight (not saving a lot). but my question in this paragraph is, i presume i would have no trouble in working a 2+2's suspension. ive done some reading, it sounds like the front is all the same, and whilst the rear is a little different, i should be able to get the correct shocks. and i presume bush kits and sway bars etc would be 'universal'. the car i looked at today is an unfinished project. it was pretty nice, a lot of rust fixed in it. just a few spots, some on the drivers b-pillar, a little along the bottom edge of the doors, that was about it (im pretty good at finding it, the old MQ has taught me well. datsuns are the definition of rust lol). EXCEPT for the big problem i found, the drivers side chassis rail at the front, i found a little hole on the outside. then i had a peak on the inside of the rail, it looked like the whole side of the rail had torn-off/rusted-out from the engine mount forward ~20cm, and a plate had been welded over the top. but it looked dodge, having only a length of weld down the vertical ends, nothing along the top or bottom. this got me worried, so i offered a real low price but the guy wasnt keen. he wants 6 for it, so i think i will let it slide. seen a nice one on carsales in WA with rego and looks decent condition, <10k, i think that will be the buy for me. but what do you all reckon about that chassis, pretty dodge? would the rego people pass something like that? how common is that chassis rust and what is usually done to fix it? hopefully some of my 50 questions get answered. as you can see, im so keen for a Z