neRok

When I bought my first zed, I hired a car trailer and housemate towed it home for me. He has a new turbo diesel Landrover Defender, and its chipped up with exhaust etc - has some epic amount of torque. Anyway, it pulled the trailer+car so effortlessly, you wouldnt have known it was there. Very impressive.

I am still keen for the L-engine turbo if you are willing to post. PM me if you are and the other guys havent taken it.

I started fixing some 'imperfections' on my car 2 weekends ago, but didnt get it done in time, but at least it will be mint for the next one. Did anyone get any pics? Would have been interesting with the weather. For any easteners wondering, it was stinking hot and then a big thunderstorm, all before lunch. It also encored later in the day.

Im no pro, but pretty sure that's not right. Here is what I know (and believe is right, or right enough). You can get acrylic or 2k primers. Acrylic uses thinners (which vents off as the paint hardens) and 2k uses a catalyst. Because arylic paints 'vent off', and 2k seals hard, if you put 2k over acrylic it cracks and blisters. You can usually put acrylic over 2k, but sometimes the thinners can cause the underlying 2k to 'fry up'. If you need to do that, you can get special primer-isolators that protect the old paint from such a problem. 2k dries hard, is meant to be glossier off the gun, but is also illegal to paint at home due to a deadly component of the catalyst. This means the fumes are quite deadly, and any overspray you get on your skin can also cause problems. If you do paint with 2k, you need to cover up very well, and use a very good respirator. 2k overspray also stays wet for a while and dries on your surrounding, whereas acrylic often goes dry by the time it lands (and hence brushes off). Acrylic isnt as glossy at first, it needs to be wet-sanded, buffed etc for the high gloss look. Because it is a 'soft' paint, you can sand any runs etc out, hence it is easier to do at home. Whilst your council probably doesnt like you spraying in your garage, acrylic doesnt have deadly components (still dont want to breath it in). You also dont need a clear if you have a solid base color. Clear is necessary for metallic finishes etc. So in conclussion, acrylic is easier for the home handy-man and still gives great results, but 2k is the pro choice. Good luck with sale, its a great price.

Thanks for posting that whittie, I might come along.

Sounds simple, but im still not 100%. Example, if the B&M cable push/pulls 10mm during gear changes and the factory auto gear selector moves 15mm, this isnt going to work. Or are the travel amounts the same and im thinking too hard?

Care to elaborate? Is it just getting the linkage to the box setup with the correct radius/throw?

Whilst on the topic of full manual shifting, has anyone managed to connect a B&M or similar ratchet shifter?

Same gearbox was also fitted to MQ Patrols, and the 4spd is used in VLs etc. A shift kit would help it, someone was offering them on here.

Ah, wish I had a windsor in my zed! I will just have to put up with the 350 chev lol. You should post up a thread about your car MissingLink, I wouldnt mind reading about your conversion. One day I will make it on a zed cruise, but mines not rego'd at the moment, so I will be staying at home for this one :'(

Step 1 is to send a form in to the transport department to get pre-approval. Once you get the pre-approval letter, then you can start looking for engineer etc. If they dont give you pre-approval, no point having an engineer.

Take a look at one of these batteries. Nice and safe in the cabin. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9908.0.html I got one months ago, even though I was a little skeptical of its starting ability due to size. Used the battery for the first time on the weekend. Hooked it up to 350 chev and had to crank it over for a good while to get fuel to it, battery coped awesome! Didnt even slow down, just kept cranking. I am a fan!

I am keen on a few things. Which suburb are you in? Do you know if the rear bumper will fit a 260z 2+2?

I put them in my 81 hilux. A little fiddly to get setup 100% to ensure they work properly, but they do work good. They have a deadlock feature as well, which is handy. I got the set with the round key, but only got the 'rod-throw' setup 90%, so everynow and then it doesnt move to the correct position, so i stuck the 'back-up' round key on my key chain and use it most of the time (you will see what I mean if you get the kit).

Maybe you could try mount it outside the car, and lower down, that way the fuel would gravity feed into the pump, reduce its load and maybe its noise. Let me know if you want to sell it for a bargain price, I need a good lift pump for an upcoming v8 conversion on my 4wd

Where have you mounted the lift pump?

That is what I am looking for. My commodore has them also, not sure on the diameter though. We dont need a spare for rego over here, but if you have one it has to be roadworthy. Pretty silly really lol.

Might try packing it out and pumping the tyres, see how I go. If I can get a bit of height in the rear, everything should clear. Will take the spare and stuff out too, for that little extra. It would be awesome if I could get some sort of coil spacer that could be fitted with everything still assembled (albeit with the car on jacks and the springs compressed). like a rubber ring with an opening/notch like the pic below.

it is a 260z actually, but not the one in my sig, i got another with 350chev. I actually cant remember if it has 1 or 2 mufflers, but regardless it has some flanges in the middle of the car that are also too low and that area of exhaust has been ceramic coated, so dont want it chopped up. What is the stock ride height? This car is very similar height to my other 260z, I am wondering if it is stock. Like I said, chassis and body seem a decent height, just the big fat exhaust is a little low.

Hey, I believe my car is too low to get rego and I need to raise it. Only needs to go up ~15mm to clear the mufflers (chassis is above 100mm already, stupid mufflers). So what are my options for a quick and dodgy raise. I am thinking some rubber donut spacers under the springs might do it? Any idea what Ø? Or maybe make some timber ones lol. Alternatively, does anybody have some documentation on factory ride height? I looked in service manual, couldnt find anythin. If i can prove it is at factory ride height, they would have to accept exhaust as it is.

probably need an electronic dizzy for the ecu to control and/or have timing signal, and a high pressure efi fuel pump, rather than the low pressure carb pump you probably have now.

i dont think those volts are the spark volts, they are the volts supplied to the coil. that is why you cant use a normal coil and you cant leave a tacho hooked up to the negative post of the coil. some bargains can be had secondhand. i have picked up from ebay on seperate occasions an ICE 7-amp module and coil and a full blown digital 7-amp msd unit, the likes you would see used on a doorslammer or something. both were cheaper than a new msd-6.

I put a streetfire HEI dizzy in the chev v8 that was in my overlander. worked good. My research when I got the dizzy indicated that streetfire products are designed by MSD, but made in china, whereas actual MSD products are made in USA (probably same design, just different manufacture). If it has warranty, cant hurt to try, and definitely a better option than something like procomp.

they are still going to pick out all the problems. i was going to go to a workshop that does it, not the pits (which like you say have steel around the top of the pit).

I need to get my '75 260z registered. I swung a piece of 90mm wide wood under it, and whilst it missed all the body and chassis etc by 20+mm, it hit the exhaust flanges and the muffler. Bugger. So I was checking on the car laws, to see what the go is. For WA, I was reading the Road Traffic (Vehicle Standards) Rules 2002 On page 49 of the PDF (page 37 of document), which is part 7 and covers general rules implied above and beyond ADRs for WA, it says That is pretty standard for all states from my quick research (it is in VSB-14 for example). However, at the start of the document, on page 14 of PDF / 2 of document, it says So the zed is built prior to 1989, so it would have second edition ADRs. Looking these up (Second Edition Australian Design Rules) there is no ADR regarding ground clearance. Apparently one of the 2nd-ED ADRs regarding headlights has a minimum height of 600mm to the headlights. So can it be argued that the first quote (from part 7) can be disregarded by the second quote (has applied with all second edition adr rules that apply to a lowered vehicle)? OR, is there some other rules applying to zeds i dont know about. Car was registered in QLD with current suspension (although it seems a previous owner was a mechanic that did the blue slip or whatever they are)?