dat2kman

Rod:Stroke ratio? Or dont worry about that,,,,

Or go to the mb that make cranks from scratch? Bit pricey, They're in Melbourne somewhere,,,

Got one PMed

For pistons, look at the 87.5 Isuzu G200 units, they suit the longer rod, will poke out the blck a bit, ( mill down to suit) and are an affordable cast type piston.

The screw plugs in the crank, a positive retention method, ie centrepunch edge f thread/crank metal ? Rather than stock rods, why nt 240Z or 1& 1/2 L16's worth f 133 rods, and some flattops? That will liven it up a touch!

The quickest Group S zeds, run about the same pace as the Nc Mazdas!

Yes, yes, yes. Also will ask the shop if they can do a pour on each side fof a couple of 260 gearbox to floorpan crossmembers, to provide something a bit firmer, but still be flexible. I''ve had a number of Roadster/Fairlady engine mounts, and S30 engine mounts done, all are still quite good, no sagging, or ripping. No ruch, but, any old engine, gearbox or diff mounts, no matter how ripped, torn, spongy/gooey they are! Post them to me, the more I can get done in one hit, the lower the cost. Its rubber, not polyurethane, and its equivalent hardness to the Nissan Competition supplied rubber mounts

Ta!

Got one here, have to cut it ff the whole system, can pack and pist. It runs into a 2 & 1/4" pipe Let me knw what length you want, go longer, and jst trim it back, so it nicely mates to your remaining system.

Yes Me In order to get mounts ( engine, box r diff) re-rubbered, the guy that can do it mxes up a batch of rubber, he wants 10 items minimum, to make it worth his while,,,, I have a few odd items, need few more.!

The Historic Group S Prod sports racers use road oegal type 14" rubber, could be a consideration, as, after all, the cars are nt daily drivers. There are specific tyre retailers in all States. Your average Jax/Bb Jane/Goodyear, aint gonna be stocking those though!

Therin les the problem, The originality of 14" is offsett by the decline in rubber to suit!

Dont use heater/water hose, fuel permeates through it. Some of the speed type shops sell large size fuel hose

The style Glbe -Bathurst is almost ( rim lip shape change) the same as a Performance Challenger rim Glbe Industries was a wheel manufacturer, that closed up many years ago. Performance Wheels closed shop last year, but their manufacturing machinery has been bought by Wheel Boyz/Barrell Bros, who are/have set up a new factory in the Brisbane North area. Chris Neale at Wheel Revolution in Moss St Slacks Creek Brisbane can source these, and many other rims.

Jake, Just fit it all up, try it out, the Willwood screw in valve should solve most ssues. If still an issue, ie way to much rear bias, you may need to go a tandem master setup, and run different size masters, along with the fine adjustment bias that will be available, in a twin madter setup.

Failing above, try Paul Wolff out past Ipswich, "Z Bitz" he may have a few out there. Some 280ZX's had the R200 in the 3.7 ratio.

Contact/join ?? BMSC ( Brindabella Motorsport Club) mainly rally based, but they may offer a form of club/concessional rego. Do go for "Rally Car rego" t aint cheap, and has restrictions. Otherwise contact one f the Sydney Datsun clubs, they may be hapy to take your membership $$$ and issue a vehicle date f manufacture certificate, which you may need, along with proof of club membership. That should be ok for a NSW address, not sure if NSW RTA will accept the garaged address in the ACT for their Historic plated scheme cars.

The talk f "dont go for 45's" etc,,,, Nissan fitted 44's on the 2litre, and 44's on the 2.4 litre, seemed to work pretty fine. They even fitted 44's on a four cylinder, as stock. It comes down to the knowledge and capability f the person setting the carbs up, and getting them to run correctly. Too many "mechanics" out there who take on such work, on the hope they get it clse. The car owner is left with the result,,,

Where did you get the kart from? How much for the setup? Is it whats known as TAG-R ( restrictor on air intake?) I'm after something for a bit of fun around my driveway,,,,,

Remove the fixed PSI Line Pressure Reducing valve, fitted to rear line, in engine bay, then fit a screw top type ( not five click lever type) Willwood Line Pressure Reduction valve. This goes from a higher % at full open, compared to the stock Nissan fixed unit. The brass blck at rear, bolted up to floorpan on RHS, is a residual pressure valve, its has a small poppet valve inside, and is desgned to hold a little bit of residual pressure to rear drums, so that pedal retains height, due to rear drum return springs not being able to pull rear slave cylinders back in. As far as % front to rear go, you need to have accurate car weight, accurate spring rates, and calculate fore/aft pitch ( weight transfer rates), then you look at the swept area of pads, piston area, master cylinder(s ?) piston area, rear slave sizes/area, rear shoe swept area. The drum brake racer boys in Nascar get all serioys about this, especially on road courses. I have a few books on this subject. Applicable to four wheel disc cars too.

If anyone needs cam towers for spray bar application, Can supply !

Got a few up here, can pack and post, if above doesnt pan out Am away till 17th though.

Thats the one I had here, fitted all the brakes, suspension, carbs and extractors, Jim's having a few dramas getting t spot on, should be right now!

Dunno about nowadays, but, it used to be by special invitation from Nissan r Nismo head offices in Japan. It used to be all housed at the old Zama manufacturing plant, but it has been relcated.

You can get a regular run of the mill clutch cover re-levered for higher clamp ressure. The ones i use are for 200mm single clutch plate, and cover ( lass rotational inertia) and mass is closer to centre. They clamp at 1320 kg Pedal effort is only marginally increased. No need for bling and fancy costly temermental twin/triple stuff.