dat2kman

Where is the "like" button!

Get underneath t, and pull the clutch fork right back so its knda loose/wiggly, then go start car, f noise s gone, its the thrust bearing. Pulling it right back has t clear from the clutch cover fingers.

I got a BossWeld 189, wire transport mechanism is very good. Had a couple other cheaper units, but they fall down mainly on the wire feed. The Lincoln 180 gets good comments on other forums.

If the thrst bearing is jst losely touching the clutch fingers, and if worn, then yes, t can wobble about and harmonc. As soon as you put fot pressure n clutch pedal, it loads the bearing onto its races, and the note changes/dissappears. Just because your foot is off the clutch pedal, does not mean the thrust bearing is not in contact, unless you have a return spring on clutch fork, and have the slave pushrod adjustable.

8" at 0 will be fine, depending on tyre section width, rear guards may need a slight trim on the inside lip. 9" at 0 will gve you more clearance issue, again, depends on tyre section width.

A type bx r B type bx? Maybe a picture f your current shortened stick will give a clue which one you have.

Easy to fit beams between wheel ramps, and use airbags to lft car, to then remve wheels!

If they are attached, and part f an assembly, ie a hub, r a wheel rim, are they still a spacer? That is just like having a new hub machined up, or a rim with dfferent ffset. I like attaching the ally spacer to,,,,,, an ally rim. You remve rim, lay it down, and no-one bothers to look at the insde rim, but at your nce shiny brakes instead. The NICE 75mm long studs are easily lathed back to your required length, f their slightly lnger than stock studs dont cut t. 38mm vs 45mm?

There will be a bit more "meat" in the caliper, than thckness on the sde rim face! Willwood have technical drawings f their range, that shows, to some extent, where you could posiibly machine it, bearing in mind the caliper halves securing bolts, and where it fouls. In our case here, t was just up from the bleed nipples top and bottom. When you look at where the piston bores are, where the bleed outer threaded tube screws in,, and depending on the caliper mdel, you MAY be able to take some off, but only do the immediate area. Ther option, f ypu have flares, is longer studs, and use a slip on type spacer, that s then mechancally fastened to either the hub, or backface of rim. Countersunk machine screw into a tapped M5 hole, s sufficient.

You'll also get some flex in the stub axles upon firm cornering. There should be a bit f keat on the Willwood casting, to be able to put t in a mill, and take a bit, r bits f skim ff. Hit it with flat black heat paint. Just had same ssue with one f the Qld members Simmns 16" rims, he ended up trial fitting a number f other nce styled rims, and went for a 16" Rota. We threw a 15" Performance S/Light onto t, t was a bees dick f clearance, t would have needed about 2mm ff top outside edge of the Willwood, to ensure clearance. The 16" Simmons were totally hopeless, due to their inside spike shaping.

$400Yes a Nismo MLS

You want about 80 thou valve to piston clearance. In a P90, you'd have to have taken around 3.5 mm ff the head, and have 45mm diam valves at around 0.6" lift at valve to get that. I'm sing 1mm gaskets!

Its a 1mm one, so ever so slightly higher comp, and better sealing.

Seal in brake master leaking nto booster shell. Possibility? Usually f no booster, it leakes down insde footwell behind carpet. Assume all brake line unions are tight, and pistons/slave cyl seals not leaking.

And that link t totally the wrong ne BTW!

Nsmo MLS 91mm gasket any use to you? Got a brand newey sitting here, can pack and post

Aahhh, George Nittis at Phillip Island!!I caught up with him a few meetings later, and that came up, he just about pooped himself, but yes, the main nut had not been tightened!

Filter in that black unt s out front, either a jolly big bvious ne, r, a very incgnito inverted pd type filter placed inside the 4" diam piping. No filter media required nsde bx, as that would disturb airflw nto trumpets.

This could look OK, painted in Datsun Airfilter Cover Orange?

Rob Devenish was leading Classics comfotably, but on second day, the clutch expired!

Have jst trial fitted a BOI airbx with its base plate to triple 45dces, it certainly s a well made bit of gear, cold air induction from out front, can be run with a hdeen air filter at hose inlet. Plenty room inside for radius turned 50mm long trumets.

That has been nicely done! Fat tyres, bobber tail, Just needs 150cc barrell/piston combo, and she'll be a wheelstander,,,

yes, the Atara made version is quite good, at least they are stamped with Load Rating figures!I have three sets available, new in boxes, at $1100 a set, plus postage Only in 15x9 at neg 13 yes, you need flares for these! The neg 32 ones are crazy wide track, and you'd be stretching the friendship of the police and transport dept, on a road car!

If its lost water, and may have gotten hot, head may have a bit of warp. A 4-6 thou clean up cut to a surface finish f Ra40 gives a nce surface for gasket mating. Scrape top f blck, take care not to blck oil feed hole to head, Follw instructions. A head gasket from lcal Repco should be fine. Follow torque instructions, it is always an unknown as to how stretched the old stock headbolts are, the ARP stud kt, ften is about same price as new Nissan head bolt set! ARP market a specific kit for L6 engine, available from lcal performance type shops near you!

Really? That cheap! When they do come up, at those prices, please share on here. See plenty f knock-offs, heck, I even have here three full sets f massive dish 15x9 typre R replicas, made for Atara, that are full load rated at same as genuine Watas, but at well under half the price f genuine. From distance, you cannot tell!