Zedman240®

What time did you want to meet there? I'm coming down from the freeway anyway; I can get off and back on again.

I'm sure everyone here will do what they can to find this zed! Shared on FB too..

ECU=~$500 Surge tank / lift and EFI Pump and lines = $250 Ignition = L28ET dizzy, Ignitor, coilpack leads etc $400 Some new but most parts are second hand and dyno time is needed no matter what you have setup be it carbs or the EFI but the difference with the EFI is it's all done with a laptop and don't need to pull carbs apart every run to change jetting..

I'm using the L28ET distributor; they can be found if you are looking hard enough. I know where there are several units if you need one now. As for the throttle bodies, I'm using the EFI Hardware ones. Mine are the older version without the air bleed screws. They work perfectly for me anyway and if you look on the net constantly, you will find some for sale second hand. Injection Perfection also manufacture Weber styled ITB's; you can always shop around and find the best price.

Best way to get everything you need is just buy the parts you need as they come up second hand. The cost spread over 12 months lessens the financial "blow" compared to buying it all in one hit. It took me several months to put my setup together. Fuel pumps, injectors and 280ZX Turbo dizzy are some parts you can get cheaply second hand that will work well. ECU's come up from time to time on ebay around the $500 mark. Manifolds come and go regularly. Hardest part to come by I think are the throttle bodies. Buy 1 a month at approx $400 each then you'll have the most expensive items to start with. If you are not in a rush, the better it is for you to do research as you go..

Saturday is the 23rd and Sunday is the 24th!

I remember AdelaideJap wreckers stock R200 CLSD's. They used to sell them on ebay for around $990. Send them an email?

17's fit without any issues; if you have road tyres fitted, they do give a nice firm ride. I have 225-45x17's and they clear with rolled lips on the rear. Good thing about +2's, they have ample room in the rear quarters for wide rims.

I'll be there again..its always a good atmosphere there!

Don't you love that when it happens... top pic is right; rotor should point to radiator. Good to hear it's all go...

Welcome back to the family..

Sounds like you may have the firing order mixed up. If you are not sure, get the engine #1 cylinder to TDC (inlet and ex cam lobes to form a "V" on number 1) and the rotor should point to number 1 cylinder then clockwise around the cap to 1 5 3 6 2 4. Then grab a timing light for the details.

Selling on behalf of a friend, he had a master reconditioned and didn't quite fit in his 240Z. This one is a 7/8th cylinder and comes with a spare second hand 240Z master. Can post for free or pickup is welcome. Asking $140. PM for details.

Good solid advice from a pro! I have found a couple of strange things on my zed that I thought I'd never see but thankfully not life threatening but enough to give you a good scare. Caught early while it was on a hoist and rectified straight away. Got rid of an annoying vibration to boot!

From what I have seen, the whole car becomes like an "odometer" itself; when you see a car with virtually no wear on the inside and the car doesn't look like its been through hell, you know the kilometers must be close to what is shown, and there are others I have seen with nearly everything worn out with half of the expected kilometers showing...alarm bells should start going off. Best thing to look for are the small clues and things that just don't look right.

Better than Dynabolts, use some Screwbolts to hold the hoist; very strong and reusable. That is if you don't want to mess around with Chemsets..

That part of PI has claimed many victims. Heard today a current model BMW 3 series that regularly does MSCA sprints was written off..coming on hard onto the straight and hitting that ripple strip then into the wall. For the sake of a few tenths, I'd rather keep my zed in one piece!

Would it be possible to run in Regularity class?

Excellent news Mark...no need to sell or scrap!

Sam, bolts are M10 x 60mm. I can get you plenty of them. Let me know how to get them to you...

I thought it wouldn't have been pretty behind the filler panel...yikes! Keep the pics and good progress humming along!

Bikes = ZERO protection against idiocy by other road users R8 = Some of the best protection.. Which would you push harder with?

There is a hose that runs behind and on top of the tank; goes through the body where the tail lights are but on the inside of the car. Goes from the filler hose around between the ¼ panel and boot trim, through the body and into the tank. S%^&* of a thing to fit when its old and hardened from age.

Welcome... We're all here to preserve all things Z!

When I did my open to LSD conversion, I was told by Stan Holmes to swap sides of diff output flanges..and he's never wrong!