dazzed

the 280zx requires a pulse generator signal from the electronic didtributor to send signal to the computer to determine injection cycle there is a yellow wire at the computer harness connector which goes to negative on the coil this must be connected or no fuel cycle

disconnect both vaccuum hoses to the disributor and plug them and try it then if this makes a big change the distributor needs overhauling, the most common fault i find with 280zx is air flow meter sticky flap or electrical component malfunction internally very common.

I think thats great it just goes to show how close knit the zed enthusiates are , there is the Z car register , face it if your 240Z was stolen , whoever stole it what could they possibly do with it ? they could store it and thats all so why steal it , the numbers and vin engine numbers cant be changed and they cant drive it so what would be the point , they would be busted in no time and the owner would have their car back pretty quick , It just goes to show how unique this marque of car is , im sure you will get your carbs back Lindsay

Vivek, well said ,good idea and thought about your topic, You need to have your engine checked over from a person knowledgeable about your engine to inform you appropriately , you may find that may cost you but could be a lot more expensive not too , ask Mossy he knows hope this helps. Dazzed

hey listen mr datsunfeak we not have lot of 240z parts here what we do have we are lucky to have we only ever recieved 1980 s30 240z datsuns here government attempted to stop the import into australia cause people were crashin them an dying cars were getting smashed up big time said that being of mono construction werent exectable to australian standards but that was ok stamp duty fees were paid on new 240z so the import didnt stop 130 mph in 1970 for $3750.00 was cheap and fuel was economical GT falcon was a tad over 4 gee but didnt stop or turn and sunk a heep of fuel but the zed did all , in OZ we make everything as with the little of parts availibility , Daniel

im not sure i think the bezel is the same the body is ampedesterace but the wiper mechanism is different i know that for a fact, i think that if someone from the US of A were asking for a bezel they would be aware of this , so what im saying is im confident that an oz bezel is the same anyway i have heaps of rust free bezels

before you know it the guys from nissan in japan will be knocking on your door , you come to our shop

oh yeah i just thought that was the ballance tube it got it , like even water temp throughout the motor cooll

dont mean to be ignorant but what is the shaft in the pic you are holding up against the wall , just trying to figure where it fits in

roger on that is bang on , you need to remind yourself where the energy that rotates the back wheels comes from ? i think it could be heat,no definately is heat more heat you produce more power to a certain point that is before a melt down is created

quote must have missinterperted or what ever i wrote was, wont comment again

the bosch alternator already has a inbuilt regulator so an additional external regulator is not required, so this wiring diagram dont suit this alternator and no charge light in 240z which you need

forget the iridiums not going to do you any favours now you have the right induction system for the street get it sorted by someone familiar with tuning zeds with this set up

i was going to say something but i forgot what it was just as well i did

umm not really sure but i must admitt they are very pretty

what is the purpose of rubber nutserts ? what are they intended for soumds interesting dimetri

thats odd ot fouls on the sump, because if the main pick up oil gallery is straight or parrallel with the block and the distance from the sump bolts to the centre of each pick up gallery is the same distance wouldnt the pick up in the rear position foul on the sump also, i just did the same conversion except vice versa and didnt encounter this problem, i did however use a straight block off plate as shown in your pic yours has a booby shape.

well said im sure there is a few of us that know how much spent , i know i have$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

You know what Simon i can only sugest that most simple and easiest programed system for your set up would be a screwadjustable early motec system if you can find one , i knew of a engineer in glen waverley and it was set up for a stroked L28 but i think he sold it to a member of the ndsoc

didnt understand any of that in another way would it be possible you could word it so that we could understand what you were trying to say Generally Aussie transport depts, do like this feature to work!

Yowsers Gareth strewth that does not sound good ,are you in hospital? I dont like to hear things like that I hope you are ok?

maybe not , if you apply heat keep it local around the area of the cotter pin

yes thats correct all rebound and hydraulic only not gas , yellows are gas , if i remember correctly Barry from top performance explained to me that the adjustment is only for when the valving wears out compensation adjustment if you dial in the firmest setting on a new shocker you will damage the valving from overheating, if you find the softest setting dosnt cope with the spring rate different valving is required ,ie , yellow sport konis, koni reds are a standard replacement shocker and dont last long cranked to their max setting out of the box hope this makes sense

I made one of these tools up and works well , however i have encountered a few that refuse to budge at all are totally siezed in , even after heating the housing and bashing it once moisture gets in thats it

Death race 2000