dazzed

Ihave a fully reco unit, has a top advance curve which is perfectly progressive and total with no variation . it is a bolt in unit, comes with right ignition coil to suit , and i warranty the distributor for life, thats right ,, $550 , if you think thats expensive you will eventually find out the hard way, please no postage , or i can fit it for you if you are in melbourne , otherwise dont reply . these are special units that have been built accordingly for zeds, there is quite a few people on this site that has my dissy in their car just ask them how they perform, but then again they probably dont even know who i am

not at all just dont use a acid battery inside the cabin ,bit of sarco there, Dimetri wrapped it up very well, its a harley davo bike battery and work well , tho i would recomend whilst your at it to fit a isolator switch

you dont really need to change the ballast resistor , i have found that running a lower voltage stabilises the spark line, and that was tested on a scope, ok

just make sure its the largest batttery you can find and must be full of acid, liquid of course, not a small gel type, remember its in the cabin, mmmm lovely fumes to breathe

excuse my ignorance but what is a srobostopic timing light wotchamacallit or whatever??

if you fit a 15/16 or 1 inch master cylinder with standard brakes dont expect them to work cause they wont , increasing bore diameter will reduce line pressure and increase the amount of pedal pressure or effort ,in other words you will have a rock hard pedal and no brakes

I accumulated a truck load of those calipers, put them in a 205 litre drum with the top cut out and salvaged it for scap at sims metal

worth while, tho a few mods are required, i think the last time i fitted a nissan dual diaphram and master cylinder off a N14 pulsar, i kept the pattern I made to fit it ,which i thought would save me a great deal of time when i repeat the procedure

im checkin out the pick up at the back and the one next to the 280, hey , nice wheels.

good info there Lurch , owners can use their satnav to determine exactely what they need

hey???

have a close look at each end of the bush one end should have a wider shampfer than the other, make sure it fits over the input shaft on the g box first and carefully align it an gently tap it in , dont bash the crap out it like you probably allready have done

looking at 2 plugs isnt as good a reference as looking at them all , but just looking at those 2 yes i say its running a tadd too rich, if it was idling for a while before you removed those plugs it could change things also , i go with your first diagnosis bobs your uncle cheers.

Hi Wally, im currently restoring a 620 its not very rusty at all but any signs of rust even surface rust has to be treated. chemically it fights back at paint when covered , fact is you cant paint rust, there are 2 types of rust convertor one is a corrosive acid and the other a covertor and sealer in 1 that can be primed and painted over when dried, bog wont stick to rust, and will eventually fall out, ultimately surface rust should be converted and sealed prior to bogging,,, not sure about painting the whole car in rust convertor, cheers have fun , give me nuts and bolts any day.

somebody put a halt on this topic now

take the water pump off throw it in the bin and just run the engine on methanol that will keep it cool and you can say look mum no water pump

Do you need a diff too??

If this happened to me I wouldn't have even thought sabotage, but yes all of the above, i would have thought that it would have knocked the earth electrode on the spark plug down , being a N47 head which is closed , maybe it did. This is time for the forensic team to count down the seconds to disaster?? .

yeah but if the car has su carbs how would it get in , you would have to lift the dash pot up and hold the butterfly open at the same time and also the air cleaner would have to be off, but if the air filter housing was off and being used to store engine parts , ie, carby screws, small hose clamps and etc and a clamp became caught and the housing and refitted there is a big chance it would become sucked in , but just dropping it in the snout of the housing it cant get past the air filter unless a filter was not fitted, other than that, its the only passage in that i can think off , no hose clamp i know of holds anything on inside the motor its a big mystery this one

the rope would have to shed a lot of fibres a bit wont hurt, but i might go fishing in my bores , what u do on the weekend? buddy and i went to nissan lakes out past the heads threw a line in number 5 caught a few alloy flat heads , what bait were using? 8 mm manifold washers,

what a wrap up , rope in the spark plug hole to remove valve springs, whats wrong with a straw, im outa here

what grade oil do you use , too heavy oil could attribute to this, sounds more like alignment problem , do you have the correct thickness cover gaskets, this is a very uncommon problem have you checked the oil pump drive spindle for trueness maybe bent

you have hit the nail on the nail on head or nearly , as its not a faulty flux capacitor but lack of them as often these are removed for no real reason ,very common problem ,can also affect electric fuel pump and wiper control, cheers.

oh sorry Simon , not wasted time , i fitted one to and engine a while ago and quite a few were made at the same time, there is some block machining to do which is a must , the idea of the brace/ Girdle isnt so much about block flexing is about main caps moving it just so happens the girdle bolts to the sump bolts bit of a double wammy, there is a lot of very carefull work required to fit this and a procedure put in place, cleaniness, and everything in top condition as you dont want to pull it apart once u have done it in a hurry. cheers Dan

where do you intend driving the kart , how much do you intend to spend, sharing a kart is a bit of a tricky thing