dazzed

sounds like a family runabout, ,the hood on my car is the same except lip facing down , i know exacely what you mean , you need to get a dolly that fits in the channel perfectly then tap away untill both joins are flat , its a item that only a keen eye picks up on , ussually the owner , cheers.

if you stand ten feet in front of the car and kneel down that folded and welded lip that has been just bashed together will also be folded downward , that is a taiwaneese hood, that is one reason they are cheaper, the idea is that when bought new in black primer areas such as this cleaned straightened but they just get painted and fitted on

manual or auto

hi ross , before you start ripping into this car, check the whole car out thoroughly starting from the front to the back to determine exactely what is required in order to get it roadworthy and registered, jack it up, and plonk it as high as you can on 4 stands and rip off the wheels and clamber inside it underneath it and over the top of it , whilst keeping a written list of items that require attention, it appears to require a lot of restoration work and it may not be a viable exercise, i could be wrong, but if you pull it all apart or start working on it before you know exactely whats to be done to it , you may end up with a car in pieces or having allready spent a lot off money on it that you may not see in return, i hope this helps your plan of attack. cheers dazza

what!!! 2.5 hrs to undo 20 bolts you slacka wafflimg to much to your neighbour over the fence

so you have it wired into the dashboard, mounted in replacement of the oem tach, have you run a extra wire to the primary negative coil side for the pick up signal to the tacho?

reset it to suit a six cylinder maybe set to suit a v8

make sure they are metric or youll be there all day

is there a bit more information about them, such as weight ,material grade , maybe some pics too, as a failure in this department can be more costly than $500 smackas

so the bushes you need go in the the top and bottom of the stick itself, if so these are rubber and can be replaced with eurethane sway bar link bushes, most of the wear will be in the selector boss the hardened steel pin wears the softer metal in the boss and makes the shifter sloppy, brass bushes will create a rattling vibration and produce a humming sound thats transmitted through the gears and up the shifter

is that a fange type box or slip yoke, either of the bushes can be purchased at a nissan dealer readily available

mrp69, a v8 verses a rb motor conversion in a early zed is totally a personall thing, drivabillity is the key remember, and getting it all down to the bittumin, thats what counts, putting the weight at the front back from fitting a V8 and a alloy V8 at that from scale corner weight testing is proven to be far more ballanced than a RB motor, but catch 22 it does have draw backs as so does a RB conversion , i favour both in their potential, but C,mon ya cant beat the raw grunt and sound of a hypo V8, counts me out, i prefer a V8 -

thing is you allready have the goodys, light alloy v8 engine, ok it may not be that touquey butt, its a v8, and someone has allready done the hard yard conversion, why dont you just refine what you already have?, or you can bore and stroke to 4.4 litre capacity, back in 2005 ndsoc had a weighing scale day, we hired 4 scales from a motorsport retailer and weighed 30 cars compiled of mostly zeds and skylines gtrs and gtirs and 180s and 200sx . took us a while too come to the grips of weight scaling cars but in the end we figured it out, the best ballanced car on a 50 to 50 weight scale on each corner with the driver in the car and out of the car was a V8 , this would automatically assume that a zed was better dynamically with a V8, so dont rule a V8 out , what the V8 does is centralises the weight rearward or further to the centre of the vehicle , mind you this was on a 260Z 2BY2 so in this case it was a perfect weight distribution factor, in fact we were so indenial of the figures of weight distribution we had achieved on the 2by2 it spent most of the time on the scales justifying figures, so after much carefull rechecking of scale figures it was determined that craig lovegroves car was a perfectly ballanced car considering the few amount of modifications that have been carried out on his car, there are many things that effect this ballance , fuel volume , engine configuration, displacement, battery posistion, overall weight and displacement, so his V8 powered zed at the end of the day ballanced out quite well , no power figures were taken for this event it was purely to determine weight distribution figures

maybe those ones came from a bad batch, but dissapointing considering the cost

i know of several paople who have purchased new trims from nissan, and not happy with them, whereas they maybe genuine nissan they are not of the origonals, they are modern replicas allmost after market, they have different pattern in them , material is inferior thinner cheaper, material is of dull black not shiny, no protective tape over raised plastic chrome strip, and material shrinks then tears or separates, i suggest if you buy new inspect first thats if you can still buy them, they were reproduced for the 240z american project before the 350z was thought of and what ones have been available were left overs good luck.

ozy dont replace the wiring , it will never end other wise, the genuine wiring is fine , simple and reliable, the relay wiring diagram is right, and thats all you need, if the loom has been attacked before just put it all back to standard and wire in the relays neatly, no the alternator to starter dodnt give the starter more power, it is at the starter where the fusible link or the main supply wire is connected, so by running a wire from alt to starter,the voltage dosnt have to pass half way round the car to get to the main pick up, also keeps battery supply up

kameri have stock of new engine mounts, as i think you may need them

some alarm systems have a back up battery in the siren, over time the battery deteriorates and requires the car battery to keep it charged,

the relay wiring system is bang on the money ozy, if you want you can plug the wires into the right hand headlight conector near the radiator support panel, saves cutting into the wiring loom, if you have h4s great ,if you put a better alternator on even better and run a heavy wire from the alternator to the starter motor ,reduces voltage drop

K&N put out a product called cavity wax, in a aerosol can for this purpose works great and does not smell, easier if you can put it on hoist to apply it, just go bunta with it

ive seen a few with early holden radiators, had a 280zx with a 202 hq radiator in it , it was too small, v8 radiator cool ok weigh in pretty heavy , theyre huge , imagine what it would cost to recore that in copper whoah, i had a quote of 600.00 to recore a standard 240 radiator, a v8 holden would cost over a grand

the engine coolant thermostat is what determines the engine temp, ok if the radiator is blocked it may raise the engine temp, but a larger or more efficient radiator does not drop the engine tempature, provided the thermostat is the correct one and operating properly, it just allows coolant that has passed through the motor to remain in the radiator for a longer period of time and a higher volume to cool more effectively, so that when the motor needs it, there is a sufficient amount of coolant available to maintain the rated tempature of the thermostat, yeah give aussie desert cooler a go i fitted one of theirs to a 240z , just give them your old one ,makesure you get it back, and they will copy it, way to go , with the price of copper , ten grand a ton , it costs more to recore than alloy.

certainly not shy about doing things, looking good and not even painted, are you going to make the wings fold or are you going to keep it at the airport

must have too much stock of alloy , or just dosnt like changing mill bits reguarly, is it even legal in this state, whose going to find out the hard way how much punishment it can handle,

is the car on a hoist? if you are only changing the inner cable leave the outer on the car, 35 years of clips wedged in ,they dont come out easy makes it even harder when you cant get to them, clean them with wd40 blow them off with compressed air a few times wriggle them around a bit bit more wd40 a silent prayer for patience bit more compressed air and wd40, then get one of those old stanley square drive blue handled screw drivers and twist and lever them out, but remember you have to get them back in ,