dazzed

other way around , ballast resistor is bypassed on cranking sending 12volts to coil when running ballast is in constant use if you pull a wire off the ballast resistor the engine will stop, just had to say that

I also encountered that using a USB adaptor in the lighter socket effects early zeds ignition ( missfires) ?? Yes.

the fuel cant spill over into the main jet block as the top plate gasket seals it off unlike webers, mikunis have5 low speed progression ports and block up easily causing fuel starvation , set the floats as per height take out all the idle mixture screws spray some carby cleaner in them with the thin long spray nozzle tube and blow them out with compressed air with the throttle open, due each one a few times , im assuming that the carburettors are second hand and not had a complete overhaul that is.

I just went that way, on my 620 ute with a L18 , as the hitachi down draft just wouldnt flow enough, and i had a 32/36 dgv weber I purched a adaptor plate from procarb in nsw , ph, 0265524522 I also wanted to retain my factory air filter housing and bought an adaptor from redline in the usa , If you dont have a manifold Just purchase @40z carbs as works out cheaper and better

I agree 100% on that peter Is a perfect combination for a L series just weigh a bit more, I love the external pump adjustment, Taper Bore, I stuck a bore camera down the venturi and you could see the piston, I was lucky to find 5 sports 2000 carbs and managed to find three good bodies as they are soft , On a flat top piston L28 with a E31 head Les built for me when he was at Datrally, Tony helped me make up a intake manifold from a L4 Datrally manifold we cut it in half and Tony had the centre intake runners cast to suit 3&4 cylinder and we bolted it to the head matched ported it dowled it and welded it all together with the 44phh rose joints on all the linkages . Could be heard in the pits at sandown full noise across the back straight and everyone would say to me, " I didnt know Datrally made a 6 cylinder intake manifold" they dont, but the person who was making the Datrally intake manifolds in NSW Died an the foundry shut down , so I have a very unique intake manifold and is still on the same engine since 1993 and still goes hard

the selector light on a auto trans shifter must illuminate for roadworthy

I have these arms on my zed the washers are just for correcting track distance not caster adjustment as back wheels dont turn so caster cannot be measured

Is your ride a red 260 coupe number plate ending in 100?

And if you dont do all of the above you will find it difficult retiming the cam when the piston is way past top dead centre,

remember what you just wrote

how many different zeds have you driven?? the reason i ask that question is, not many people hand over the keys to their zed to just anyone to drive and so therefore many owners of early zeds have only driven 1 zed their own, and that makes it difficult for a person to make a good judgement of what to expect only to except their vehicle for what it is ,, Iknow big wheels on early zeds makes them pigs to drive, then someone else may except the fact the car climbs gutters when you let go of the steering wheel and pronounce it drives GREAT>

Hi Marc are you sure you need a vass or a roadworthy certificate? as for wheels Section A VSI 26 rim width no greater than 25mm , rim diameter maybe increased, but the overall diameter of the wheel and tyre combination must not be more than offered by the manufacturer, wheels must be in accordance with australian standard As1638 or .DOT , ,JIS, .JWL, I found this info from the vic roads centre for automtive transport an engineering dept for vehicle safety standards, hope this helps?

we have 3 go karts 100s yamahas, have wide band 4 wire exhaust temp gas sensors measures oxygen content in exhaust through tempature levels, I know 2 strokes are different to 4 strokes but as the day cools off and the oxygen content in the atmosphere inceases so does the power output of the engine too the point that it produces so much power through the heat increase in the combustion chamber due to the high level of oxygen to fuel ratio it melts itself down, trust me stay on the richer side of making full power at a lean point

No seriouse Gareth, lean is good makes great power, but go too lean an the heat in the combustion chamber becomes so high and the pressure that it can cause pre detionation and you most likely wont hear it before damage has occured, from my exerience watching fuel mixture ratios on dynos was full;; noise 12.7,1 12.5.1 AFM ratio which is on the slightly richer side of leaning out, hardest part is obtaining that afm cosistently

12.5 afm full throttle conservative , 14.1 is effen lean might produce good power but not for long, perfect air flow to fuel ratio correct if im wrong is 14.7.11 in all altitudes , but are you gonna jump outa car every time the weather changes an change the jetting size? I dont think so go on the richer side of the afm ratio, or am I wrong I would an do , lean out no good .