dazzed

what does it do?

DMG welding and fabrication, 2 Alexander drv burwood, Derek he does beeeautiful work

Peters very right, but it dont matter stock or race engine engine is still turning the same rpm, was the oil system primed and checked for presure prior to starting it, oil light only means 1 thing, no pressure, or the tolerances have somehow become greater than they were when the engine was built, keep us informed, fingers crossed its a lazy oil light switch

I didnt want to say that so i just put dimensions and quoted big , but your bang on the money Pete , bog down mid range as the primary are too large in OD and length, might help using a 1. 7/8 inch exhaust pipe, sorta defeats the purpose a bit then, not a good street car or even a really good street car pipe, maybe those interested should do more homework on them its a lot of time setting them up properly

32 inch long primaries that are 1,3/4 inch in diameter and 2, 1/2 inch diamter secondry collectors, BIG!!!!

the only cause just straight off the end of the bat is that the ignition switch has collapsed internally

back to basics, I know z electrics very well and carry out diagnostics and repairs regulary, zed electrics are generally speaking quite straight forward as in simple and very reliable, and i have never encountered this problem before, most of the elecrical problems in zeds ive encountered is after the wiring has been tampered with, such as a resto or a stereo fitted or an accessory fitted headlight relays etc, even with the main engine earth lead diconnected at the motor the car will still start and run as there are other earth wires to draw current from, if to much current is drawn the fuses / links should blow as 260 s have more fuses than 240s , go back to basics and recall any work carried out prior to this melt down , the old seconds before disaster scenario.

1 IN A MILLION THAT ONE , THINK YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO FABRICATE THAT ONE UP YOURSELF, JUST GET 2 OF THEM AND CUT THEM IN HALF AND REJOIN THEM

thats exactely what i did , only lasted about a year ,then did it again

I have a 6 cylinder twin cam toyota that has exactely the same symptoms and have had the head off and crack tested,with no crack showing up, so i can only assume the cyl head is cracked internally which is difficult to detect, let us know how you go, cheers Daz

And the problem is that a leak test will not show up or be indicated untill the engine climbes up to a tempature that is higher enough to expand the engine to open up a apurature or crack that can effect cooling

I had 30 tridont thermostats in a shoe box i fitted to vehicles that had 3 year warranty and all failed ,and the distributor refused to back the warranty , said i was stupid and didnt know what i was doing, now you mention you fitted one all your problems have now been associated with just that, you may have a crack in either the block or the head, and is going to be a daunting task to prove , im not saying that its exactely the problem but a good place to start your diagnosis, cheers Daz

Im pretty sure yoou should be running a 82 degree thermostat, when the engine was first started did it get really hot before the thermostat opened? as a new stat takes a lot longer to melt the wax inside the pellet before the stat opens ,and then the block recieves a gush of cold water whick causes thermal shock and head gasket problems.

OK now for all who dont fully understand the CH PLATE situation here goes its simple , Vic Roads allow the owners of vehicles 25 years or older a concession on the annuall rego fee due to limited amount of use on their roads, innitially vic roads stipulated these cars were only to be driven on vic roads whilst paticipating in a club event associatted with the plate issuing club as a finaciall member, Note/ this is based on the condition that these vehicles are of roadworthy condition, A typicall annuall rego of $700 would only cost a CH plate holder the sum of $90.00, A unregistered vehicle associated with a letter from the CH permit club coordinator could be issued allowing the plates to be issued by vic roads to a vehicle without a current roadworthy certificate, If the coordinator has any doubt about the condition of the vehicle applying for CH plates can also request a current roadworthy certificate, which i think is fair enough, Now here is where it gets really tricky ,if a vehicle has been modified depending on the extent of the modification a club that issues CH plates has to determine if the vehicle is still elligble for CH plates. Now the issuing CH plate coordinator maybe a hairdresser and is in no posisition to determine that the modifications made to your vehicle comply with Vic Roads standards unless they are liscened by Vic Roads as certified roadworthy testers or mechanicall engineers , the fact is they are not in a posistion nor do they have the relevant VSI information , So how can you expect a hair dresser to roadworthy your vehicle , you cant and you wouldnt , i submiited a email suggesting to the ndsoc that being a finaciall member for 20 years and a fully qualified motor mechanic and being a licsened vehicle tester and a enthusiast i could fullfil this posisition , No as this would be impacting on another persons roll in the club, and as the club allways stipulated its your club have your say Daniel.

well said Simon.

so a load of BS someone got it wrong , what next ?

I had a notion you may say that!! when you hear things the story can change slightly as it goes along , im constantly approached by people asking me whats going on with this and to be honest i dont know because i no longer have any cars on club rego, being a LV tester i refuse to have someone who is not qualified inspecting my cars.

i have been informed that the ndsoc have decided to make up another ruling as far as CH plates are concerned, You are required to be a member for 12 months before you are eligble, so just park your car in the shed for 12 months and twiddle your thumbs , is this to detour members away that have zeds,

what is it with the rear arms that you are not keen on interested to hear

85.85mm at the top and 86.465 across the lower part of the skirt for a standard cast type piston because the top is exposed to the combustion and heat is transmitted through the skirt and into the cylinder walls and then the cooling system , is that what you wanted to know , hope this helps cheers Daz

Thanks Craig, look ,even if it didnt have a eng cert, obtaining a current cert would still make a viable aquisition and that would only require a inspection and if it required changes , big deal .

for that perfect fit we all are ultimately looking for!!!!

thats right gordo ,and if you do mix them, wack em on a flat bed and stick a straight edge through the middle of them all, if it rocks tis not good. ps this is a very old topic tisnt it

The vehicle without a doubt would have had a eng cert at one stage otherwise it would never have been reregisterd as the number of cylinders and engine capacity sections on the form would not correspond, the eng cert document serial number will be logged with vic roads with this vehicle you could probably copy it for your own records , unfortunately it sounds as if over time it has just been misplaced, records dont get thrown in the bin they will be recorded both by the engineer and state roads authorities, just need to trace it back , Daz.