C.A.R.

E30 turbo head is sold. As there is has been no interest, I'm stripping the rest for parts & sending the bare heads off to scrap. It's not worth the effort to advertise them.

Phil, for Christ sake buy a workshop manual first. It explains how the likeage setup works. Your 'guessing' on what is happening is going to get you into difficulties & cost you more money...

My New Best Friend!

MSA in the US stock the Tabco full length sills. This is the easiest way to source them. Robbie (DreamZ) got his through them. Postage is slightly on the high side, but it's a good excuse to make a big order & get all the other stuff you need

Not as yet.

There are a few issues from what I can see in your build plan David, but IMHO - by far - you should piss all the Mallory / MSD stuff off. It's US junk & fails quite regularly. Get a proper re-manufactured electronic Distributor (from Performance Ignition or the like) & Bosch coil - it's all an L-series needs.

Here is a summery report from the AOMC seminar held 17/5/2014. PLEASE NOTE: this summery is by the Club permit officer of a vintage truck club, so it is 'Heavy Vehicle' 'centric'. AOMC seminar held 17/5/2014 Here’s our summary of the AOMC meeting regarding changes to the Club Permit Scheme. Over 300 people attended and it was conducted by Rod Amos. The changes are scheduled to come in sometime between July and September 2014. Changes 1. Club Safety inspections will be limited to pre 1931 vehicles. Vehicles post 1931 will require a Road Worthy Certificate. Vic Roads will be look at how to provide adequate support to RWC testers unfamiliar with older vehicles and will produce a check list for those doing safety inspections on the pre 1931 cars. 2. Clubs will need to hold dated photographs of each vehicle that applies for Club plates (i.e new applications - not vehicles already on club plates). They will have to show various views of the car, plus the engine bay, interior etc. These photos will have to be accessible to VicRoads upon request. These photos act as a record of what the vehicle was like when it was put on red plates. 3. There will be a new M plate for extensively modified vehicles – plate to be the 12345M format. Police could demand that current vehicles on H plates that are extensively modified be inspected and reassigned to M plates. 4. A new Vic Roads standard will be introduced - VSI 33 - that specifies modifications not requiring certification for CPS vehicles. However, VSI 33 only applies to ‘light four wheeled vehicles’. Motor bikes and heavy vehicles will have their own Standard – which will be introduced at some unstated date in the future. Because this standard will not apply to trucks I didn’t really take extensive notes however here is a summary - VSI 33 has three age categories - vehicles manufactured before 1/1/1949; vehicles manufactured from 1/1/1949 and up to 31/12/1968 and vehicles manufactured from 1/1/1969. VSI 33 covers various aspects of the vehicle such as body work, engines, brakes, fuel systems etc. AOMC is generally happy with the flexibility of these specifications – for instance a vehicle could be fitted an unmodifed engine if it was offered as an option by a manufacturer and does not provide a significant increase in power; Brakes can be replaced by other brakes if they were ‘manufactured by an entity that is subject to laws governing product liabilty’ For vehicles built after 1/1/1969 VSI 33 does not apply – the current standard VSI 8 applies. However Rod Amos says that if the modifications are not permitted under the new VSI 33, then if they fit into the existing VSI 8 parameters that’s ok and if they don’t fit into VSI 8 and they fit into the current VSB 14 parameters that’s ok and finally if they don’t fit into VSB 14 then you will need to get a VASS Engineers inspection. AOMC are also in talks with VicRoads regarding replica vehicles and ‘pop up’ clubs ie clubs whose sole purpose is to provide cheap rego via CPS. There has been the issue as whether Vic Roads will limit the number of people in a Club who can sign CPS forms. No decision on this – it will be looked at when VicRoads look at the issue of the suitability of Clubs to issue Club Permits. Heather and John

As long as you're happy with the result Robbie, that's all that matters

Well that's what happens when YOLO Flatbrims buy old cars - like Bozo.

I've got a set of 16x7 / 16x8 Simmons you are welcome to try Marc, but they'll need tires fitted...

It's about as bad as Robbies 260Z, although it'll be interesting to see what is hiding under the paint on the RHS rear 1/4 panel...

Is this for sale yet?

Set a date & they will come

Got a fully rebuilt 260Z gearbox here - all new bearings & syncro rings on 2nd & 3rd. $2000.00

So some progress has been made on Robbie's 260! Saturday (10/5) I gave him a hand in making a start on the rust repairs on his shell. Robbie has bought new floors, sills, doglegs & hatch slam panel so I set him to work in unpicking what remained of the hatch slam panel. It's was made harder by the fact that someone had previously attempted to (badly) repair it. So we chopped it all out & started again. Robbie has more photos, so I'll let him continue the story...

Not really valued more than a sedan - unless you are a B310 nut. Uniqueness - maybe. They are quite a bit rarer than the sedan though. It's all a matter of personal opinion... To answer your questions: -Parts availability: Very hard to come by now-days. Evan sedan parts are hard to source, but if you ask in the right online community you might luck out... -common rust spots etc: Everywhere! Guard bottoms, door bottoms, sills, rear arches, hatch. Thoroughly go over it to check for tinworm. -and anything else in General haha: Make sure it's complete & running with no parts damaged. Check someone hasn't pinched the Tacho Dash to fit into a sedan & that it still has the back seat - the 1600 guys love em. Oh, some came with factory Air-Con too... I have one here atm, so if you need any more info - fire away P.S. L4's are a direct bolt in with a Stanza X-member

'Warragul Panels' took care of the paintwork. It's going back together!

At LCR we take a holistic approach to helping you achieve your motorsport dreams and goals. We endeavor to understand your vehicle as a whole and what you are wanting to achieve before we start on any project. Specialising in, but not restricted to, Datsun/Nissan vehicles, we are constantly challenging existing boundaries developing higher levels of power, speed, handling and aesthetics. We apply the experience and wisdom, wrought from years of active participation and successes in most genres of Australian motorsport, to each project we embrace. Whether you need a component or a complete vehicle, something improved, strengthened, lightened, or even re-invented, we can help. We're about helping you achieve your motorsport goals, what ever they are… As quite a few members on here have had work done by LCR (including myself), I'm sure they can attest to the quality of the parts & work done. For all enquires: http://lescollinsracing.com/contact

Hi Owen, I'm still working on your cylinder head. Regards, Lurcher de Tinpot Arrogant Hitler.

A vast majority of people are over-sensitive too.

I've been busy working for 'The Datsun Guru', so everything else in here seams pretty 'Beige'.

So you're worried about that amount of rust, HamishJ? If that scares you I suggest you take up Golf as a hobby, instead of old cars. That rust is very easily fixed.

Gav, I can give you a replacement cylinder head if you'd like? Otherwise, when the head gets reconditioned, just get the shop to weld it up for you.

As ever, this topic has been dragged off course... To Mike the OP - use a FJ20 TURBO gearbox (same casting as the 71B, but with the 71C gearset) and fit an L-series bellhousing. Use the Kameari 71C gearset in it, with the raito's: 1st 2.427 2nd 1.677 3rd 1.258 4th 1.000 5th 0.838 That's as close as you'll get with an off the shelf gearset, & you'll still comply within the Grp Sc rules.