C.A.R.

If buying new don't get OER's Doug - Weber's are the go there.

I'd budget 6 to 7k. I also suggest you purchase a new Scorcher Electronic dizzy from Performance Ignition. I havn't seen an old points or 280ZX/MR30 electronic dizzy yet that isn't stuffed...

I should probably ad that this engine was installed into the owners 240Z a few months ago and since than has since had it's first oil change, tappets adjusted & the carb. mixtures adjusted. Owner is over the moon as it starts first time - every time, gets great economy & has more grunt than he has ever had before

Awesome

I've heard that reasoning too, but I'm not sure I buy it... There's been an interesting discussion on Ozdat forum about gearbox oils recently: http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=34169 This was interesting - I had not read it before: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf Is yours a steel bulk ring or brass syncro gearbox, David?

Fuchs TITAN Supergear 75W-90 Shifts fine when cold. LCR use it on all their rebuilt gearbox's. I (personally) wouldn't recommend Redline Light Shockproof oil. Remember: no matter how good the oil is, it's not going to fix a gearbox with worn bearings & syncro/bulk rings.

Send Paul at ZBitz an email: Paul (at) zbitz.com.au

For Sale: Used R200 4.375 Crownwheel & Pinion in VGC. No damage on the teeth of either CW or Pinion. Light use marks on CW. Price: $500.00 Can post to anywhere in Australia. Call Les Collins during business hours on: 03 5623 3108

Comparing an offset ground std L26/L28 crank to the 89mm stroke item Les sells is like comparing chalk & cheese. Not even in the same league...

It's this piece here:

305HP @ 6800RPM 260FT/LBS @ 4200RPM Not bad for an L24!!! https://www.facebook.com/LesCollinsRacing/videos/1820750944826013/

Ratios are: 3.3, 1.9, 1.3, 1:1 & 0.76 Whereas the Kameari ones are: 2.4, 1.6, 1.2, 1:1 & 0.76

Agreed. For instance, the 240Z speedo & tacho gauge bezels are held onto the gauge bodies by 4, M2.5 x 0.45 x 7.5mm phillips screws - no ones supplies these in that length!

! Send part numbers now, please!

Ahhh! A challenge! Nissan marks the heads of their bolts with a 4 (std grade) 7 (high tensile) & 9 (extra high tensile). There are exceptions to these, such as some of the Phillips head screws, but the majority are marked. Also a large amount of bolts used on Zeds are 'Sems" type with the captive flat & spring washers. If I was closer, I'd come around & help you sort them...

Zip lock bags! All bolts, screws & fasteners go into a Zip Lock bag that gets labeled - don't be stingy on the description! Strip the Zed down to a bare shell. Media blast shell on Rotisserie. Undercoat in an Epoxy primer. Perform rust repairs. Perform any body modifications you wish to do. Refurbish brakes, suspension, & driveline. Before paint, 'dry build' the Zed to check that any modifications you've made from standard will work/fit. Strip shell & paint. Rebuild. My big advice - take your time & enjoy the process. If it takes 2 years, it takes 2 years. Oh & get all the FACTORY steel fasteners, brackets etc re-plated...

I hope you've got deep pockets Alex: http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/emblem-decal-sticker-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/datsun-260z-fender-emblem-set-nos

As far as I know they are not moving - they are closing down. The land the factory is on has been sold...

Yay for for respraying it! Coz who needs a RW Certificate and Registration...

Forgot to add that you better check that the bores are still at 83mm - you don't want to go boring a block that might already be 1mm over...

Cylinder bore core shift is a massive problem on L6 blocks. IMHO you'd get away with a 1mm over-bore on bore centres, but for anything more than that, you MUST get it sonic tested with a view to off-set boring. If the block is matching numbers to your Z, do you want to risk ruining the block by over-boring it too far?

Why do you want to use rusty old donor sections? New doglegs & sills are available from Tabco/MSA. Floors & rails you can buy new from rare spares.