C.A.R.

It will bolt straight in. It's a wide ratio box and unless it's been reconditioned, 2nd & 3rd synchros will be worn.

Repeat on the LH side: New inners:

The top of the sill was cut out, the internals of the sill cavity were sanded, rust converted and painted in KBS Rust seal. Then a new top for the sill was fabricated and fitted into place, along with the back corner of the A-post bottom:

Francis at AutoBling in Braeside: 0422 865 038

Just time it to TDC on No1.

They belong to a mate of mine - that's where he stores them.

A small update: After all the remaining repairs were completed, the front end was reunited with the rest of the body. No real issues, apart from getting it into position because everything is a snug fit now... It's now off the jig and onto the rotisserie to be media blasted again - lots of mismatched primers, paint and surface rust meant that it's easier if we get it blasted now. Then a fresh coat of Epoxy can be applied.

Nope. We can repair it from underneath. With the body and panels locked up in PPG's finest Epoxy, we started on the repairs to the RH dogleg and sill area. Media Blasted: KBS Rust Seal applied: KBS'd: New dogleg made and welded into place along with the door jamb area's repairs and replaced:

What we got back wasn't that bad. The doglegs had been badly patched along with where they meet the wheel tub. The tops of the sills had rusted out under the kick panels. RH front guard bottom had been patched, and there was rust under the slam panel. And water had sat under the hatch hinge boots and had rusted out the pockets. Doors had typical rust and dents in the skins so we'll be repairing those (as replacement door shells aren't currently available). What I didn't expect was the accident damage to the LH rear 1/4 panel. It's had a previous attempt at being repaired, but as it's in the middle of the 1/4 panel, it's almost impossible to get behind it. We are probably going to remove the 1/4 to fix it properly... Then there was the typical dents from 50years of use, so we'll be fixing all that too.

"When do you think you'll be able to start on it L?" Les Collins was staring intently at me over the top of his glasses. I was looking at a bare rolling shell. "We'll be able to take it in around 12 months, Les. We're booked solid at the moment." "That's just not acceptable L. It's needs to happen within the next couple of months - George has been very patent during the last couple of years, but we need to make a start on the body now. I've finished the engineering on it and the drivetrain build is well underway." "Christ on a bike Les... Even if I could find the time and room to do it, my painter & paint shop is booked ou..." "You won't be required to paint it. I'll organize that. You can see it's not a complete rust bucket, so it wont be a massive job." "It's still a big ask Les..." "WHEN L?" "I'm thinking Les." I looked at my diary... "Ugh... End of Feb - maybe I could squeeze it in then, but...." "I'll have it ready for you to collect then, L." "This is a massive favor, you realize Les? I'm going to have to postpone a customer." "I understand buddy. It's appreciated." ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- HS30-103331 Back in '17 I flew to Hobart to look at it as a prospective purchase for George - one of Les Collins's customers. Some minor body issues, but it was pretty good and George bought it with the intention of restoring it with some tasteful modifications. It went straight to Les's workshop where it waited... Les's team had stripped it down to a bare rolling shell and it was going to be our job to media blast it and perform the rust repairs. This is how I received it: It went up on the rotisserie for blasting, and this is what we got back...

That strip should definitely NOT be there.

Just get the lighter one.

This left this morning to be returned to Evan. If you are in Woolongong, keep an eye out for it!

I think I'll just stick to rust repairs - it seems FAR safer...

Just repair your original.

You can buy them new from the US suppliers.

When we dissembled the Z, I didn't take any notice of the windscreen wiper arms. I got them out of the box before to refit them with new refills and was delighted to see they were the original 'Twin Spars'. However some sharp object had decided to paint them in matt black - and this will not do. So onto the polishing mop with them and I've buffed the paint off and polished the stainless to a nice shine, so as to blind Wags from the reflection when he drives it. One down, one to go...

As I had to replace the squeegee's on Wag's 240Z, I did some digging and came across Skillards video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOhVwokT93w And I also looked on eBay and found them: https://tinyurl.com/2jj9byn6 We then fitted them up with new staples, making sure that the 'foot' of the rubber goes UNDER the securing strip. The only issue - if you can call it an issue - is that the squeegee is taller then the OEM squeegee. They cant be cut down as they wont touch the glass.

Early 240Z (51mm) LEFT Front strut required. It needs to have the tread all the way to the end. PM me if you have one you could sell me.

Research 'Hydrogen Embrittlement'.

I suggest you have the bonnet hinges re-pinned before you have them plated. I haven't found a set yet that wasn't worn and sloppy, and it makes it difficult to get the bonnet to sit nicely if the pins are worn... Paint the front & rear hub assembly's. Do not plate them. Also make sure you re-plate any of the high-tensile bolts (9) and load/structural bolts as you will have to get them hydrogen de-embrittled.

As you are posting in an AUSTRALIAN forum, I'm not sure how much we can help being on the other side of the world... Google radiator repair services in your area for your radiator - they should be able to clean out your gas tank for you as well.