peter mc Posted April 25, 2011 Posted April 25, 2011 yer big hp turbo cars are fun but as a engine builder i get a real buzz from making na sing and making L28s sing is a passion . all so well done to GV260 hope to see your car at the track Quote
Agno Posted April 26, 2011 Posted April 26, 2011 Wow. If you can get this off the ground it will be an amazing feat! I'll be watching this one very closely Quote
peter mc Posted April 26, 2011 Posted April 26, 2011 it will happen soon i spent the hole day in the shed working out problems .and i am glad to say its not that hard, i will be removing the water pump and will replace it with a electric unit as it will simplify the build , all so will modify the crank nose so i can run a rb26 balancer with the oil pump drive on the front these things were not available in the day Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted April 26, 2011 Moderators Posted April 26, 2011 You're not wrong about an electric water pump to make it easier..there would be extra pulleys and belts to add then having to make a cover to fit it. Is that timing belt an RB26 one and will all the timing be right? Will you be running carbs or EFI with ind throttles? Quote
peter mc Posted April 26, 2011 Posted April 26, 2011 it has a belt from some euro car but today i fitted a belt from a 30/26 and i fitted the 26 cam gears and it works just fine .. it will be injected and i will make new larger units at the moment the throttle plates are 43mm it will be 50mm when i finish with it Quote
peter mc Posted May 21, 2011 Posted May 21, 2011 OK a bit of a update on the build and parts i have purchased to make it all happen specks 85 mm stroke from the Rb30 of set to 86 mm 48mm pin have modified the block to fit the main bearings of the RB custom con rods from a Honda b18c 138 long 411g 21mm pin b/e width will be 21.77 custom piston 90mm with 26.5 pin height with 20 cc positive dome for 12.1 comp engine will be 3.280 L i have just got the dry sump pump its made in WA, it a 4 stage unit my plan is to have 2 stages removing oil from the sump and 1 removing oil from the head as there is no oil drain that mates up on the Rb head to the l28 block .on the back of the head There is a -12 fitting that i will use to remove the oil.. this is not for the faint hearted as there is lots of work to get the RB crank in the L28 and lots of maths to get it to work Quote
Riceburner Posted May 21, 2011 Posted May 21, 2011 This is an awesome build Peter! Just wondering what your going to use for induction? It would be cool to see a dirty big set of 50mm carbs or even some flat slides Quote
Sirpent Posted May 21, 2011 Posted May 21, 2011 Pete This is a Monster build up but what intrigues me is what will be the encore after this one? Cant wait to see the finished product. Cheers John Quote
peter mc Posted May 21, 2011 Posted May 21, 2011 no carbs for me Gareth injection all the way i will run the GTR manifold first with its 43 mm itb and i will make a 50mm set to test once its sorted i am having a good time with the challenge ..no need for a encore i will be needing a rest Quote
FLEXZED Posted May 21, 2011 Posted May 21, 2011 Pete This is a Monster build up but what intrigues me is what will be the encore after this one? Cant wait to see the finished product. Cheers John WELL DONE PETER hopefully the encore will be my motor ;) ;) Quote
NZeder Posted May 22, 2011 Posted May 22, 2011 Good to hear the update Peter, RB30 crank that will save a bit of hassle for the belt drive setup - so did you take a look at the RB mains/girdle setup. I am lead to believe there are few L6 engines here in NZ that run modified RB girdles/mains (south island cars - we have not looked into our selves to know if it possible but it should be) Keep up the unique and good work Quote
peter mc Posted May 22, 2011 Posted May 22, 2011 some picks of the head and the welded areas ... and i have made new billet main caps that are level with the sump rails so the girdle will sit flush. the RB girdle will fit with some work but the sump wont fit so i did not go that way. Quote
260DET Posted May 22, 2011 Posted May 22, 2011 Is the L block stronger than the RB item? Long time since I looked at a Merc..., err, Datsun L block but for some reason I'm thinking this setup will be stronger than a stock RB equivalent. Quote
luvemfast Posted May 22, 2011 Posted May 22, 2011 Did you make new caps? What was wrong with the ones that came with it? Don't forget, I've still got some bits here for you. Quote
peter mc Posted May 22, 2011 Posted May 22, 2011 yer had to make new ones to fit the RB crank. The Rb is 2mm narrower in the journal Quote
peter mc Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 just a pic of the 4 sage pump for the nc 28 will look great hangging from the side Quote
bluerat Posted May 25, 2011 Posted May 25, 2011 Pete, this puppy will be gravel rally legal you know..... Quote
peter mc Posted May 25, 2011 Posted May 25, 2011 Yer my intention was to make it meet more class regulations and if it all works the way i want it to i will build a few more because i think they would be a great rally weapon. Quote
DAZDA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Pete, this puppy will be gravel rally legal you know..... In which group? CRC (Club Rally Cars)? Quote
bluerat Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Yep, best class since sliced bread....you may or may not have enter your zed as a 432 to completly cover your backside.. Quote
260DET Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Yep, 432 and then you can use all the sports option goodies, big brakes, wide wheels............ Quote
NZeder Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Yep, 432 and then you can use all the sports option goodies, big brakes, wide wheels............ What makes you say that? The fact is the 240z/260z/280z has more listed in the FIA papers under group 4. The Z432 papers only have standard brakes listed Quote
PZG302 Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Pete, damn shame it won't comply with 2B Marque Sports. We have to use original series block and head. If the cost was upto $10k and power around 300 at the wheels I would be sending my car down express delivery to get one of these puppies. It would certainly open a few eyes around the traps when it hit the track wherever it showed up. Quote
peter mc Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 haha i wish it cost 10k the oil pump cost $2400 and the motor will cost me in parts close to 20k and all up it would cost 30k from scratch i no its mad but i wont a twin cam L series Quote
NZeder Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 i no it mad but i wont a twin cam L series not mad - normal long time zed ownership does that to a person I think a number of us want that twin cam L24/26/28/30/32 or even a genuine S20 engine between the struts - so some of us have to settle for less Speaking of the S20 engines have to seen how they mains bolt into the block - now that is not your normal main caps - race type stuff right there. FYI that is 2 bolts like the normal cap + bolts from the side through the block aka 4 bolt caps. Quote
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