peter t Posted September 4, 2011 Author Posted September 4, 2011 Thanks David, The only thing that I have to figure out is the return fuel line. I am only running standard mechanical pump but have the return pipe to the fuel tank. What do you suggest. Quote
Enzo Posted September 4, 2011 Posted September 4, 2011 Peter, The Holley likes between 5-7 psi and as my electric fuel pump puts out 5 psi I removed the holley pressure regulator that had to be fitted for the SU's. I fitted a "T" piece into the fuel line at the end of the metal line from the tank near the alternator and plumbed this back into the return line with a restrictor ( about 0.5mm Hole). This takes the pressure off the needle and seat in the carb when the motor is switched off. The line from the "T" piece to the carb is from the local brake shop 5/16 inch steel with the ends flared for a tight fit on the rubber joiners. I also have removed the PCV valve and fitted a large filter at the block. The valve cover has also a filter but this will vent to the air cleaner when time permits. David. Quote
BobsYourUncle Posted September 4, 2011 Posted September 4, 2011 So what are you plans for the new motor? Quote
chris240 Posted September 4, 2011 Posted September 4, 2011 Do you actually need a return line ? On the advice of a local tuning shop , they didnt see the merit of running a return "on my stockish motor" when I got my carbs tuned...and it hasnt missed a beat. Quote
Enzo Posted September 4, 2011 Posted September 4, 2011 Chris , As I understand it the return line is only to take pressure off the needle and seat. When the motor is switched off the fuel in the lines is exposed to heat sink from the motor causing pressure to pushed against the needle and seat. If this leaks then the motor could be hard to start. The original fuel lines on the Datsun has a restrictor in the return line. Please feel free to correct me if I have got it wrong. David Quote
peter t Posted September 4, 2011 Author Posted September 4, 2011 You are right David, the standard return line has a restrictor. About half the size of a fly shit. Quote
Enzo Posted September 4, 2011 Posted September 4, 2011 Hello again Peter, I would be tempted to fit a "T" piece to the fuel outlet pipe and another "T" to the return line and join them. Make sure one of the "T" pieces has a restrictor in it. (solder or tap a thead and fit a plug with a small hole). Check the pressure at the carb to make sure the restrictor is not too large. David. Quote
chris240 Posted September 4, 2011 Posted September 4, 2011 just saw the pics...that looks different to my setup...we ditched all the original alloy lines and started fresh. hmmm I forgot to mention Im running webbers, those weber jets & tube setup can handle a lot of pressure as opposed to needles & seats. yes, my return was blocked off way upstream. Quote
peter t Posted September 6, 2011 Author Posted September 6, 2011 Well after a lot of asking questions, lots of trips to Autobarn and Repco, lots of beer and nasty words, the Holly is of the car and it runs great after adjusting cables and the choke. Took a while to get my head around why it was revving so high but after consulting the Holly installation manual I finally figured it out. Holly have a good site for downloading info on all their carbies. Thanks to Dave for his help. Will let you know tomorrow how it performs under driving conditions. Electronic choke still needs a bit of adjustment and throttle stop on pedal as well. Quote
peter t Posted September 6, 2011 Author Posted September 6, 2011 One more and a couple of my man shed. Quote
Enzo Posted September 6, 2011 Posted September 6, 2011 Hello Peter, Looking good. Just a couple of things. I presume you have the extra green wire to the choke as an earth wire.This is not nessessary as the engine is earth anyway. Also the fuel return line can be changed to a 90 degree fitting so to hoses are parrallel, not sticking up as if on viagra. Just a thought. Keep up the good work. David Quote
peter t Posted September 6, 2011 Author Posted September 6, 2011 You are right David. The green wire is and added earth. I cut the return fuel restrictor off the spare fuel rail I had in the shed and stuffed it down the hose and clamped it in place. The T piece is not pretty but due to running standard mech pump that is the only place I had to shunt it in. I can live with it. As I stated before, still have to do some more adjustment of choke. Got to remember this not a show car but a tidy hobby for an old guy. Quote
peter t Posted November 18, 2011 Author Posted November 18, 2011 OMG I have slipped down to page three. Now I have finished my project LOL I have just been enjoying the drive. I have finally got my recon diff, after much searching for the front bearing and have reconed the half sharfts. Now all there is to do is fit them. I recieved the front tower brace, Thanks Stivva and with a few minor adjustments it looks the part. Had to forward mount it to clear the Holly then lower it to clear the bonnet but all is good. Can't wait for the Christmas run to test it out. Na, will take it out tomorrow for a drive. Quote
be-zed Posted November 18, 2011 Posted November 18, 2011 The diff looks good Peter. Don't do what I did and try and catch it if it falls or looks as if it could roll off it's lifting cradle. It will make short work of your fingers.I still have a scar after ten years on. Quote
Stivva Posted November 19, 2011 Posted November 19, 2011 Looks great. Good thinking to lower the brace too Quote
RB30X Posted November 19, 2011 Posted November 19, 2011 Na, will take it out tomorrow for a drive. Hope it all goes well. New holley should perform great. Quote
peter t Posted November 27, 2011 Author Posted November 27, 2011 Spent the last two Saturday's trying to fit the headlight covers and have finally got them on ready for the Christmas run and BBQ. What a mission. Looks good anyway If not perfect. Quote
Riceburner Posted November 27, 2011 Posted November 27, 2011 Hey Peter, I take it you got new uni's fitted to the half shafts and got them balanced too. How much did it cost? Quote
peter t Posted November 27, 2011 Author Posted November 27, 2011 Hey Gareth, work done by HardySpicer cost $250.00 new h/d unis and balanced with new boots. Had to use Toyota boots as Datsun no longer available. They also did tail shaft when I fitted the new gear box. Quote
peter t Posted February 4, 2012 Author Posted February 4, 2012 Well I have finally got the King springs in front and rear and adj caster rods fitted. The back dropped 1" and the front 1 1/2" even though the springs were 1"drop all round. It looks to be sitting up a bit at the back so will fit the 240 strut tops and that should make for a more level look. That can wait for when I can get new Koni yellow shocks. Quote
Sirpent Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Nice clean looking ride Pete congratulations Quote
peter t Posted February 5, 2012 Author Posted February 5, 2012 Thank you Sirpent and Peter Mc26, you have both helped so much in this project with advice with problems that I have had along the way. Once again thanks for your help when I needed it. Quote
BobsYourUncle Posted February 5, 2012 Posted February 5, 2012 It's looking great - I really like the louvers on the hatch. They're 15" wheels, right? Quote
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