Safari Brown... I mean Gold - The NSW Project

[thriller]

I bought a taiwanese $40 eBay valve spring compressor. Don't make the same mistake! Bent like a banana on the 3rd spring I removed.

 

 

Instead, just roll down to bunnings, grab a real big C-clamp and a socket that's about as wide as the valve spring caps.

 

Grind about 1/3rd of the socket 'edge' off, and weld the back of it onto the swivelly bit on the C-clamp. $15 and presto! Socket sits on top of the valve spring, wind the clamp down & remove the collets through the opening that you ground out of the socket.

 

Little bit more fiddly than the proper high-quality tool, but it works alright for the $/amount-of-use value

[Enzo]

Gav,

      Just a little tip. Before trying to remove the valve springs, give the spring retainer a tap with a nylon hammer. The spring retainers and collets can lock together after being on an engine for an extended period of time and with without giving them a gentle tap to loosen them it is easy to bend your compressor. Also a magnet is great for removing the collets without dropping them once the spring is compressed.

Cheers

David

[chris240]

hehe, so you FINALLY got an external mirror...I recall you chasing one 5 years ago !

direct from the Ex Canberra Alladins cave.

[George]

Another quick question, can anyone recommend a brand or type of valve spring compressor that works well on L-series heads? There are a few different designs on eBay. But I figure someone has a preference for 1 that works well?

 

http://www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-36050-valve-keeper-remover-and-installer-kit/#oid=1002_1

 

See it in action here from around the 8 min mark:

[gav240z]

hehe, so you FINALLY got an external mirror...I recall you chasing one 5 years ago !

direct from the Ex Canberra Alladins cave.

 

Yeah 5 years is a long time, some of the AU specific parts are tough to find. Although I'm sure if I called the 'right' people I could have got it sooner. Another item I've been chasing a while is a vinyl kit (diamond pattern) I got 1 on Yahoo! Auctions Japan that came with a spare headliner also, the vinyl kit will be going on the other Z (Evie the 72 Z) but the headliner will be for this car.

 

I also got a 2 seater roof to replace the sunroof, although I'm not sure if I'll patch the existing roof or use the replacement skin yet, better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it right?

 

So no engine updates yet, and I have been a little lazy now that I missed out this semester on the Tafe Course, really want to go back to it, but I might have to borrow a welder and practice on my own for a while until then?

 

So feeling a little demotivated I forced myself to finish off the center console restoration.

 

Before

 

During

 

 

After

Comparison...

 

Finished..well nearly..

 

I'll do a full write up to complete the center console restoration thread soonish...

 

Some notes, the ash-tray doesn't sit flat because the pins I believe can be unscrewed on the hinge and this will allow me to install it again without breaking the plastic tabs (like nearly all of them have suffered).

 

I haven't glued down the center console finisher or fastened the coin holder piece to the console (that will come when I put it back in the car.

 

The photos make the black contrast against the rest of the console a lot more than it does in reality. I actually don't mind them being slightly different.

 

Finally the flasher and parker inscription should be white, I haven't painted these yet. I'm waiting for the vinyl paint to fully cure then I'll go over it in white and with a wet rag clean up the excess paint. That's the theory - we'll see if it actually works though!

 

A small win for tonight - I should really get onto restoring the steering wheel. I bought the materials ages ago. Just been lazy. I'm trying to keep up the motivation.

 

I now have a left over center console finisher trim piece, ashtray lid and ashtray that are all broken or damaged in some way. I used all the good bits to make 1 decent piece.

 

I'm happy with the ashtray in particular as these seems to be expensive on eBay and not available anymore.

[Linton]

well done Gav

I can see in your comparison photo the demister and lights symbols are no longer white, a trick I used on my motor bike was to melt a the tip of a white crayon (mines yellow) and while hot and melted rub it lightly over the symbol and the let set, then you can clean up the edges just with finger nail or whatever doesn't scratch, if you happen to pull some out of the symbol melt some more in. ( only works if the symbol is indented, not raised)

Linton

[gav240z]

Thanks Linton, I have some white touch up paint and small paint brushes. I tested it out on the spare garnish piece and found that you kind of have to paint over the area, then quickly wipe with a wet rag. Since the area is indented like you mentioned it removes the paint from the top layer but not the grooves which is what you want, but it's a little tricky to apply an even covering.

 

These fiddly jobs are quite time consuming but also quite rewarding at the same time.

 

Will post up a how-to follow up shortly in the relevant thread.

[C.A.R.]

Gav, I can give you a replacement cylinder head if you'd like?

 

Otherwise, when the head gets reconditioned, just get the shop to weld it up for you.

 

[gav240z]

Gav, I can give you a replacement cylinder head if you'd like?

 

Otherwise, when the head gets reconditioned, just get the shop to weld it up for you.

 

 

Thanks Lurch, I will be speaking with the cylinder head specialist about it, if she's junk I'll take you up on that offer (unless they think the E31 is viable of course or I find a P90 at the right price etc..). I don't see corrosion around other parts of the head so not sure how that damage occurred in the first place. Quite an unusual place for it.

 

Anyway that reminds me, must get a valve spring compressor.

[gav240z]

Not sure if I mentioned it already but I managed to get enrolled in the course again this semester. They ran a second class after all that.

 

So a little bit more progress on rust removal front. Before I welded the patch piece for the lower guard on I decided to cut the holes in the bottom of the fender. I'm not actually sure what these are for? Possibly for drainage etc..? Anyway it was as simple as using a drill to cut a couple of holes and then using tin snips to trim the rest of it out and a file to take down the edges after etc..

 

Old vs New.

 

I had the course instructor help with the first couple of tack welds. Then I finished off the rest of the lower panel.

 

Then it was supposed to be the easy part, but I blew a couple of small holes. Possibly because it was late in the evening and I was perhaps rushing and a bit tired so not as focused. But I'll try and fix those issues next week and get this section finally done. It's slow progress when you're still a newbie and despite all my practice on other blank metal tabs with my welding, I still made a couple of mistakes. Oh well.. I might have to hire out an oxy / acetylene welder and get myself a fire extinguisher so I can practice more than just once a week.

 

Anyone have recommendations for hiring out an oxy? Or would you suggest buying the hoses and welder tip etc.. and just renting the bottles? I'll also start practicing with the Mig welder soon also etc..

 

As a final note - see in the pictures how the paint is burnt? Yeah that's why I don't think I can preserve the patina of the old paint...it just can't be avoided...

 

[PeterAllen]

I'm with Corgas and I was paying the usual monthly arm and a leg rental but their local distributor stopped ... err, well ... distributing.

 

I now see that Bunnings are distributors and there is NO monthly rental, just a one-off hiring fee. I'll be checking it out once I run out.

 

[Brabham]

Oxy sets are relatively cheap on eBay Gav, $100 approx should get you a good quality CIG set, another $50 for gauges (prices are 2nd hand). The difficult part is hiring the gas, as rental is very expensive. With a MIG you can now own argon bottles so this may be a cheaper option.

 

Cheers

[gav240z]

Feels like I've been working on this panel forever, I guess I have .

 

Anyway today's progress.

 

You may have seen in another thread I was giving away some side indicators.

 

and some rust damage that caused a crack in the metal.

 

Well I made up a patch - since 240z's that were AU delivered had no turn signals in the guards. So I'm smoothing these off.

 

But the metal around this area was very thin and kept blowing holes, so the tafe teacher took over and worked his magic (can't claim I did this bit). But there is the other side to go also, so I took note of how it was done .

 

Anyway here is some shots to show how the panel is looking.

 

A bit more fettling to do with the lower section and another minor rust hole running along the bonnet area of the guard and that will be it for this panel.

 

I think I'd like to work on the drivers door next, since the door skin is shagged proper, and I am thinking I'll buy a rare spares skin - hopefully the door shell itself is good.

 

and here is random photo of the early style badges. I don't know why I like them as much as I do, but I just think it's 1 of the cool things about the early ones.

[thriller]

Looking good Gav. Many more nasties left?

[Brabham]

Good work Gav, did the indicators get added later to meet ADRs? Don't know why anyone would want to go to the later guards, they look cleaner without the markers. Oxy on 0.8 sheet metal is not fun and takes a while to master!

 

Cheers

[gav240z]

Looking good Gav. Many more nasties left?

 

In that panel no, but I'm sure I have plenty of nasties to go . Firewall, rear wheel arches, rockers, rear hatch, slam panel, floors... you get the drift lol..but it is starting to feel less daunting when I look at what needs to be done. Each small victory is a step closer to seeing this car on the road again.

 

Good work Gav, did the indicators get added later to meet ADRs? Don't know why anyone would want to go to the later guards, they look cleaner without the markers. Oxy on 0.8 sheet metal is not fun and takes a while to master!

 

Cheers

 

Not sure what the rule change was or if that's the reason? But if you look at 73 240z's they had the additional indicators on the front bumper. So possibly by 74 they had to have side markers?

 

Someone changed the fenders to 260z type ones before the car was given a repaint (in the original Safari Gold), I suspect someone wanted to create a 260z mock up using their 240z in the 80s. I noticed the guards had 260z style fender badges and this was left on after the repaint. Who knows maybe someone also put 260z rear lights in it at some point?

 

Anyway she's going back to how she should be now .

 

Yes Oxy welding thin metal in that area ain't too much fun.

[Riceburner]

Looks much cleaner without them! Wish I knew this when I did my car, I would've gotten rid of them too. My car is November 73 and has them fitted with factory connectors in the loom, perhaps they changed the laws later in the 240z's production?

 

What sort of filler rod to you use Gav, is it brass or brown tip?

[gav240z]

Yeah here is my 73 240z, as I say most original car I've owned so far. Although I'm trying to change that .

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=14206.0

 

You can see no side repeaters but the amber indicators below the bumper.

 

On the Safari Car the loom was hooked up so the turn signals worked in the guards, it seems to be spliced into the lower turn light in the valance, so it seems just a change of plug to make it work. No cutting or chopping of loom. I imagine someone wanted the turn signals back in the day thinking it was cool . No different than me changing the rear lights on my FD RX-7 from the earlier square ones to the later circular units really.

 

 

So I can't really judge Mr 1980s owner for that .

 

In about 20 years time everyone will be getting excited over the early style RX-7 rear lights LOL... Some poor sap like George or I will pay a Premium to get a pair too! Sorry for including you also George haha.

 

The early North 'Merican' cars as you know had the turn signals in the front and rear quarters (ewww! to the rear 1/4 in particular), but the amber rear turn signals is not correct for that market car.

 

Oh and the filler rod stuff is definitely not copper it's a brown colour, but having a brain aneurism trying to remember it's name, it's a long weird word haha.

[Zedman240®]

The rear "outline" markers on the Merican models weren't indicators, just rear outline red marker lamps. Came on with the parkers and remained on. Z32 import zeds had them and I wired mine up as I thought it would look different.

[PeterAllen]

... What sort of filler rod to you use Gav, is it brass or brown tip?

 

They are uncoated mild steel filler rods which allow you to work the metal with a hammer and dolly after welding.

[gav240z]

 

This arrived in the post today, thanks to a generous member who donated it to me.

 

It should go nicely with the OEM knob I purchased on eBay recently, but has the shagged 4 speed button.

 

[gav240z]

Quick question for those following along.

 

Are the badge holes in the front guards the same position on 260z's and 240z's?

 

Example of badge I'm talking about.

 

I need to know so I can determine if I'm going to plug these holes up with my welder or leave them.

 

 

[vorn70]

I just went out to the shed and measured a 260 against a 240 and the holes are the same. I even tried a DATSUN badge where the 260Z is and it all matches up and all hole height and alignment is good.

Hope this helps .. Vaughn

[gav240z]

I just went out to the shed and measured a 260 against a 240 and the holes are the same. I even tried a DATSUN badge where the 260Z is and it all matches up and all hole height and alignment is good.

Hope this helps .. Vaughn

 

Definitely I was going to fill mine in and re-drill them, but now there is no need it would seem . So happy days. I have some 'DATSUN' badges coming but they are taking their time to arrive so I couldn't check myself.

 

On another note does anyone know if door handles between different Datsun's are identical?

 

I found these reproduction door handles for $15 and supposedly they suit a Datun 1200.

http://www.allmusclecarparts.com.au/webshop/index.php/datsun/1200-ute-sedan/datsun-1200-outer-door-handle.html

 

I don't know how you could make such a part so cheap, but I don't know if it will fit a Z?

 

 

 

[Mr Camouflage]

 

On another note does anyone know if door handles between different Datsun's are identical?

 

try searching noob 

 

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=5712.0  (last couple of posts)

 

;D