Linton

sorry everyone we cant make it, cant fix the brakes dunno whats wrong, and the boss wont give me Monday off as well, so merry Xmas to you all have a safe and wonderful Xmas and new year "spoiler and wheels gone" Linton and Cathie Portland.

Hi all, my rear brakes have finally collapsed, having a devil of a time locating new cups i think the part number is p6283 anyone have any? or a source ? would be great Thanks Linton

sorry every one cant make it this year, hope you have a great day merry Xmas... Linton

Linton & Cathie hopefully once again a great day out

gear box cross member between outer bush and chassis, main bolt

i got two sets was going to chuck em as I have no where to store

Great Gordon, I have have booked the week off looking forward to it. I will bring your diff with me.

old school testing.. to test your advance:.. forget the fsm... plug the vacuum line off, watching timing mark on pulley with timing light, rev engine up to about 1000 rpm watching the timing mark, it should increase with revs if it does its fine. remove the vacuum line off the controller while holding the revs at about 1000 rpm push the vacuum line onto the vacuum controller the timing mark should raise again. to test the vacuum controller pull the hose of the manifold which goes to the controller stick it in your gob and suck on it, if it works like a straw then the controller is stuffed. The fsm can cover various models and yours may not be the same as the book, it would not run if there was a major problem. my controller is stuffed and blocked off, I run the timing set to static 12-15 deg at Idle and it purrs and doesn't have any engine ping HTH

Hi Gordon I have a z32 auto diff lying in the shed if its any good to you, out of my car TT its in good shape.

very nice they wouldn't fix mine and sent it back

I believe spacers like those are not legal in australia

don't be sorry, I am sure some one else has had the same thought/idea, I didn't know that.

"plugs read quite rich is it running lean" bit of a contradiction ,, maybe a vacuum leak at the manifold since only happening after the headers, the fact that you are making it richer suggests a vacuum leak, a really wet plug often will not come back to life unless the engine is running correctly to burn it off, and black soot will cause the plugs to short at the electrode, it might not be your problem but when mine was breaking down it was the coil, I removed the ballast fitted an electronic one off a commodore, small little black one, the engine will redline the tacho every time.

he picked up mine

the engine and radiator will need a good flush, gunk could be oil contamination but more likely it has had an anti freeze or stop leak added to the coolant which has congealed in the system, either way fix this first and worry about the carbies later, the jiggle valve faces the front of the housing, towards the radiator, it is in the right way.

the fact that the radiator top tank is not getting hot after 5 min let alone 20 is a serious problem, did you put the thermostat in the right way up? maybe your engine is seizing not over fueling I wouldn't run it till you sort this out.... take out thermostat and refit the cover, remove the bottom hose and reverse flush the engine through the bottom hose, water should run out the water pump.. HTH

no sorry gone long ago

not looking likely for us this year very dissapointed

Same as mine Ben 76" i used a commodore fuse block 3 live and an earth makes perfect sense, if I remember right 40,60,and 80 amps

I got one too but locked out of melbourne

the short answer is no it wont bolt up without modifying and yes the original filter is available i got one off ebay way back before the tripples my new car has su's but a 240z air cleaner

I'm with gilltech, change the balance tube and say nothing they probably wont notice, but if you talk to them, they will be forced to investigate and come up with stuff you wont like..

hmmm, , to my limited knowledge the 260 had hitachi carbies not SU as for the rest no need to run water. if your car hasn't got all the emission connections on it i would get rid of all that as well, or better still source another tube without all the pollution stuff on it

this came up in google search

a relay probably wont stop you blowing fuses you need to fix the the wiring short that is causing it, the relay stops the the excessive voltage feeding back and cooking the headlight switch but also gives you full voltage at the light