daretobedifferent

Picked this up earlier today. Thanks Jeff

It looks like the exact some one. No mirror on the passenger door, same flares and wheels.

If you're going to be driving it everyday, look for a RHD one. A LHD one is just too annoying on roads designed for RHD vehicles. Like anything, a left to right conversion can be done, but is it really worth it? Taking into account all the other costs like Gav said, you're not really going to save any money. Also, if a car was manufactured in both LHD and RHD, I would just look to buy a RHD one.

I agree, its only long enough to burn one persons leg when walking past the car.

The bid is at 25k and its past its reserve, so if all the bidders are looking for a deal, it could end up going for 30-35k.

The funniest thing is he ends the advertisement with "These are getting hard to find especially with little rust, make me an offer."

Yeah mine's a 2 seater 240z. I purchased it mid-way last year. Fair enough. I would recommend taking a look at all the areas inbetween panels if possible and at the seams. Z's rust like nothing else on this planet haha, even the good ones. But the one you purchased looked alot more rust free than others.

What did you end up buying it for Jeff? It was quite expensive imo, as I purchased mine for 6.5k albeit in worse condition (costed me around 1.5-2k for the extra parts for it to be straight, rust-free-ish (Datsuns are never rust free) and ready for paint).

@ Jimmy26: You're going to have to lower the price. A 260z isn't as desirable as the 240z (still a good car in its own right), and the car honestly needs a complete restoration. If you're willing to drop the car down to a realistic price of 6k or so, I'm sure it'll sell reasonably fast.

If you're looking at performing an engine swap then the best thing to do is; 1. Repair the body/shell of all rust and damage and coat it in PRIMER and not the colour yet. 2. Mock up all the mechanicals; engine, transmission, cooling system, suspension etc. You don't want to go cutting/welding a newly painted shell. 3. Once you've got all that sorted, remove all the mechanical parts. Get the door gaps right, shell sorted and get it painted. 4. In the meantime work on refurbishing and getting the mechanical work finished for installation. 5. Interior, glass, trim, carpet and etc should go on last. 6. Drive away no more to pay hopefully haha.

PM Sent

I've tried the Septone one from Supercheap and that works well. Let it sit for awhile and you'll be happy with the results. Unfortunately the Diggers branded paint stripper really does suck.

I also don't care about matching numbers cars, however they do fetch a premium over an engine swapped z if you're going for as close to original as possible.

Yep, he even told me in person. I've only met him once and he told me, so if you talk to him long enough gav you can probably get it out of him. He doesnt do it to all of them. He can't do it to all of them because he can only use crashed/wrecked z numbers. He can't get caught registering an engine number that is "matching" to VIN ABCD when there's a record of it being matching VIN EFGH

Yeah he's abit of a character. Also thought you guys should know his "numbers matching cars" aren't matching numbers cars at all. (I'm assuming you guys already know this as well) He told me he purchases new ID plates and stamps them to make them numbers matching. Because he goes through so many z's, he mixes and matches VINs and engine numbers and says that they're numbers matching.

Most of my tools are Kincrome. I purchased them at discount at the Kincrome factory in Scoresby. They sell factory seconds there i.e incomplete socket sets etc. You end up buying two sets to make one complete set however you will end up with nearly two/a spare of everything. The price for both ends up being cheaper than a new set from a store. Quality wise, they tools don't feel cheap/flimsy and I havent had any problems with them. In all honesty most tools will survive if you use them for their intended purpose. Its when you start using a screwdriver as a prybar ... then its obviously going to snap.

Does anyone know whats happening with all the parts? I popped by around August last year and he still had heaps of parts, engines and z shells.

Can't be Glens one. The car in the photo is LHD and Glens one is RHD.

Yeah I've checked it out, its an awesome few hrs to spend checking out some cars. I did around 2-3 laps of the museum before heading back to Sydney. The 260z is a 2+2. I'm not 100% sure if he's willing to sell all of his cars, but there was a section of the museum with about 50 cars that he was looking to sell (typically cars that he already has 2+ of). No barriers around these cars so you can get right up and close to the cars.

I took a good look at it while I was at the Gosford Car Museum. Has some light rust coming through and from memory some bubbling up paint. I don't think it'll be anything major, but something to keep in mind.

That's definitely disappointing. I can't believe the state of the car in the second pic, its so twisted!

Datsun Z to Ferrari 250 gto moulds for sale; Could be a good business case to turn all the rotted out Z's to 250 gto replicas. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ferrari-GTO-Replica-moulds-/122015993638?hash=item1c68b84f26:g:NgUAAOSwepJXYLYT

100% scam. The photos are taken from speedhunters. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/08/the-v8-hakosuka-rocky-auto-does-it-again/

I'd say its interesting. I still prefer the sedan over this though.

This is probably the best petrolicious video in my opinion. If you can wait till 6:20mins of the video you won't regret it.