daretobedifferent

I completely agree. For the amount of rust spots you can see, just multiply that by about 10 by the time you actually start working on the car. Don't get me wrong, any car can be repaired however you will need to know how to form your own repair panels if you want to save money on this one, because about 60-70% of the body will need to be replaced.

Car SOS Datsun 240z Episode; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiTZ53GDBy4

Gav, the silver one is from this shop; http://classicthrottleshop.com/classics.htm . They've got an awesome selection of cars by the way. You could give them a ring and ask them for the VIN.

HS30-H: If you read my post correctly, I actually never said you were wrong. So to take your own advice, go back to your reply to my comment, re-edit it as you have made a mistake. Thats exactly how you sound mate. I think you guys just have to take two steps back and realise that you're being abit too harsh. I'm pretty sure you've misread something in your life more than once HS30-H (as have I). I agree with your next part, yes it would be great if he got all the details correct, and it is annoying when someone continuously makes a mistake but it is indeed hard for someone to track all of the comments over the last 3-4 years the channel has been active. Maybe instead, send him an email with all of his infractions (and your comments) at each segment/part of the video and deal with it that way. Also if you want someone to learn properly and do the best that they can, you shouldn't really call their work "shonky". Would any of you call this constructive criticism?

I had a look at the comments section and in all honesty I think he has every right to be mad. I'm quoting two guys here, so I'm not pointing the finger at anyone else other than Alan T and Lurcher260; Alan T: "This is another shonky Wasabi Cars video that is full of mistakes." Lurcher260: "Nice Z, but dearly me SO MUCH utterly incorrect clap-trap sprouted in this video." Yeah you can voice your opinions but you don't have to be a w**ker. To sound like a cocky bastard for one second, I'm a young Automotive Engineer and I've worked on lubrication projects, protoype engines, automotive engine design and etc. I've only owned a 240z for about 8 months, but I'm pretty sure I know more about the L series engines than MOST (not all, but most) of the people on this forum who have owned Z's for 10+ years, only because I've got a background in engine design. I've seen some pretty uneducated posts on here but you don't see me running my mouth around, saying; "Mate you're an idiot, go to university, go get a job in the Automotive Engineering industry, keep on going and become the Head of Engineering and then ask me that question. By then they would already know the bloody answer?!?". Dan's a guy making youtube videos and he's an English teacher. Let me say that again, he's an English teacher. He hasn't had the luxury of owning a 240z to get really know all of the details. If you think that you know everything there is to know about a 240z, you're in over your head. If he gets it wrong, he gets it wrong. If the facts aren't correct, they aren't correct. Get over it, everyone makes mistakes.

Haha I was just about to post this video up as well!

That's some interesting stats there Gav! I'm restoring it either way even if it isn't a low numbers car. Aiming to keep the exterior of the car stock, but everything else modified.

Hey guys just quickly, what is considered a low number car? I'm currently restoring a HS30 01724. Is this considered low, or is low, a car that is sub HS30 01000? Not looking to sell but it would be nice to know.

I'm looking to buy some flat top pistons to achieve a higher compression ratio. Based on other forum posts it appears that a compression ratio of around 10:1 is what I should be aiming for as a weekend driver with a mild cam. Doing abit of calculations, the compression ratio of an L26 with an E88 and N42 head are roughly the same. All else remaining the same, a stock L26 should have 8.3:1 compression. If you get some flat-tops this will yield 9.3:1 compression. If you want to go higher, you can get 0.8mm and 1mm head gaskets which will up the compression to 9.5:1 and 9.6:1 compression respectively. If you're budget conscious, go with the flat-tops and potentially a new head gasket and be done with it. One engine shop is stating that they have fitted L20 pistons to achieve this. Given the L26 stock bore is 83 mm, and L20 bore is 85 mm, this is a 1 mm or 40 thou" oversize. Has this been done by anyone else? What compression ratio is achieved with the L20 pistons? I am assuming that gudgeon pin size is compatable also. Anything can be done if the geometry is right. The L20 and L26 pin heights and diameters are the same so you're fine there. The bores are different and depending on the piston head design as well the piston dish volume will be different as well. A bored out to 85mm L26 with L20 pistons will yield 8:1 compression. If you manage to get some L20 flat-tops you're looking at 9.6:1 compression. If my calculations are correct, just go with the L26 flat-top pistons, your life will be so much easier.

Just to add to the Lincoln 180C tally, I'll be receiving mine in a few days and I've also purchased an Ampfibian 15A to 10A adapter as well. For auto-panels I suspect it will be fine, but I'll post up whether it cuts-off quite alot when working with auto-panel thicknesses.

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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-510-SSS-1800-bluebird-/301904728103?hash=item464aec9027:g:sdgAAOSwHxVW7w9O A 510 for sale!

I agree, it is way too overpriced. Buyers are better off purchasing a cheaper 240z that need a restoration (up to 15 - 20k) and then dumping a further 20-30k into it. The rear hatch paint and glass looks terrible and the interior looks good but it isn't great.

This link should work; http://www.edwardlees.com.au/stocklist/nissan-fairlady-------

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/coondle/cars-vans-utes/1974-datsun-260z-coupe/1097279920 Shame amount the sunroof though. Otherwise it looks like a pretty good deal. Update: price bumped up from $15,000 to $19,500. I guess he realised it was too cheap.

In my opinion, it just doesn't get any better than this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMgeu4-_gTE

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sydney-city/cars-vans-utes/1973-datsun-240z-coupe-matching-numbers/1096717809 Looks to be a good buy. Located: Sydney NSW Price: $20,500.00

I was definitely excited when I heard Sung Kang was teaming up with a workshop to build a Z, but the outcome and documentation of the build is definitely disappointing in my opinion. I definitely think that the engine swap is awesome and the interior looks sweet, but the body kit just looks stupid. Plus the episodes are a complete waste of time. It pretty much consists of Sung Kang staring at the car and talking about how this is his idea of the ultimate car, when initially he wanted to build a Porsche ...

Datsun 260z interior parts http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-260z-/252152951433?hash=item3ab57cb289:g:a~cAAOSw5VFWNu8z

Some new parts added (4 to 6). @GongZ: I'll forward you the contact details of the buyer if he is willing to sell it.

240z RB25 swap - engine and trans mounts, and modified sump. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dandenong-south/other-parts-accessories/240z-260z-datsun-rb25det-engine-mount-sump-kit/1092412314

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Hey Jasonisa, a copy is available on the internet: http://vk.com/doc120880121_170537805?hash=15d0c493d04e7af43f&dl=28aabb49a7217e1962

3. Z Car Club Sydney horn button (interesting piece, not sure of the rarity) - SOLD