Cozza

I'm not going to say what is best for your situation but what I can say is this. I run a mild L28 with 40mm webers. With 36mm chokes it was dyno'd at 216hp at the wheels, on the same day with 32mm chokes it was dyno'd at 210hp When changing from 36 down to 32 chokes I gained 10hp at 3500 rpm, where my motor runs most of the time. 40mm webers are cheaper and more plentiful than their larger siblings, often round the $1.2k mark. For me, if you are running a street car that dabbles in track work and is built at a budget, 40's all the way. If you're building a hi-po L series, where 50's are justified, sounds like a very exxy build, I would be looking at injection personally.

Awesome, very jealous. Just a thought with your 100mm slab, if rock is close to the surface (like my place) you could anchor directly into rock using galvanised bars and grout. Shoot me a pm if it sounds like something you're interested in. Cheers Mick

Haven't pulled a dizzy apart for a couple years but is it possible to assemble the inner and outer shaft (mechanical advance area) of the dizzy 180' out??

I picked up on the pic of the webers too and had a little chuckle knowing that someonr would say something but, I have to agree with gerrardq, $7500 for a set of triples is ridiculous in my mind.

No coilovers, I run standard struts with king low springs an tokico illumina shocks front and rear.

Yep, simples. I drove a corolla wagon round the ski resorts of Canada for 4 months with no clutch pedal. Not many traffic lights in ski resorts though.

Can't see your pics on my phone. Maybe post direct to this site not to a photo bucket type site. They are 4 wires so yes simple 4 terminal relays. It's been about 5 years since I liked at the wiring diagram and that circuit but from memory the reason there is 2 relays is that 1 relay supplies power, the other supplies the earth.

Can't comment on earlier cars but my 9/72 has 2 passing relays. The button is on the end of the indicator stalk. 1 relay is on the passenger kick panel the other is on the drivers kick panel.

I don't see them on his site and wondered if they are still available??

For the past couple years I have run 205/50/15's on 15x7 0 offset with no problem. 2 weeks back I ran 225/45/15 semi slicks on 15x8 +4 offset at eastern creek on a track day, again, no problem. Suspension travel is different between road and track driving as you are not likely to hit bumps and potholes on the track. But in saying that, my suspension is not very hard and I get a bit of body roll. I was pleasantly surprised I had no tyre scrub with the 225/45/15's on a 15x8 +4 on my 9/72 240Z. With 0 offset wheels, maybe you will get a little scrub to the guard lip but the options above of machining the back of the wheel or rolling the guard lip sound appropriate to me. I can't imagine you would need to pump the guards though. Good luck Mick

I got a 4.6 and can confirm it is not ideal for highway trips. Great for short tracks though. ? Changing your diff ratio is by far a cheaper option though. And, later, when you do build a motor, you will have a coupe ratios to choose from for the various tracks you try out ?

Pm sent

Great news, you can almost taste the first drive now.

Thanks for posting pics. Still interested in R180's but not the indicator panels, I was imagining indicator housing. Thanks again Mick

Thanks gav, that's a great story.

If it is the front indicator bodies I'll go 2nd in line for those. Edit: And the R180 diffs Cheers

Thanks for your feedback Lurch I've had a look at those dunlops they seem to have great reviews d3c0y and Agno, I haven't tried 888's but I know what you mean by stiff sidewalls. They can be teeth shattering It sounds like most of you use "R-specs" for both wet and dry track days as well as road use? Am I overthinking this and should do the same? My Potenza re-11 tyres have not been all that impressive, in the wet particularly. My previous tyres were Toyo RA1's which were great and performed ok in the wet but I thought there was still a better wet option out there and maybe a good road tyre that can sype the water would be a better option? My thoughts were much like Jason has suggested, to run 225/45/15 R spec tyres (I've also thought about slicks but don't know anything about them) for dry track days and 205 or even 195 something's on the road and as a wet track tyre. I guess I am looking for a more forgiving type tyre for street use and hoping it will perform well for track days. Thanks again for the advice so far and please keep the ideas coming or tell me I'm crazy and I should just stick to R-specs for everything. Cheers

G'day all I have recently acquired wheels that I will use specifically for race tyres and it won't be long till I need to replace the tyres on my current road wheels. After a super sprint at SMSP on Sunday with 2 very wet sessions, I'm thinking my next road tyres would double as wet track tyres and hoping for input from you guys. Or is this just a bad idea? Both brand and sizing ideas would be great. My road wheels are 15x7 0 offset. Thanks Mick

Welcome. Sydney Datsun Club is who I'm with. They are mostly on Facebook but have a website too.

Yep, just another way to skin a cat! Personally, I'm not a big fan of driving 1 throttle shaft via another one but it sounds like it works either way. Thanks for uploading the pics.

This sounds better.

Glad to hear it's sorted Roady but if you could post some pics would be good. Cheers

Can you post a couple pics of your throttle shaft setup please. Jason. Are you suggesting 2 external springs per carb or 2 springs total?

So they should have got my Grandma, she's probably smaller and more exciting. ? Fire extinguisher bracket, of course. Thanks.

+30 offset might be a bit extreme. What offset is the standard topy wheels?