dat2kman

Those DCD 32/36 downdrafts are nowhere near worth that. Maybe 100 to 200! Agree on above, depending on how bad?, the body is, 1 to 1.5 k about right. Let us know what figure you want for it.

And,,, I have a brand new, never fitted Autronic SM4 for sale, with install instructions, wiring loom, plug, PC interface cable Current new price, $2600 Sell this one incl postage $2000 You muck around with the cheap stuff, sure, you can get it to work, eventually, but when it comes to backup and assistance, as Peter Mc mentions, well!! Try getting stuff for slightly older Haltech's, i know the family, old man died a while ago, sons took over, re-invented the wheel, and went downhill, business was sold, and the new owners got it back going, but all new units, if you get an old one, forget backup. At least Motec and Autronic are tightly controlled by their distributors/dealers/programmers, this is what you pay for, and fully up- gradeable So many guys have gone down the route of injection or turbo, they go cheap controllers, but, they end up wishing they went for better, they wont say so, but,,,, Yes the dollars are up there, but if you have a $10 car, get a $10 controller, Oh and buying a second hand unit, inspect it on the car running, then do a deal, but unplug and detach loom then and there, that way you know it WAS working.

And i'd be interested in a set, of clear, un-tinted ones, but i'm in Brisbane, ,, , i might as well be in Darwin!!

You are set up as a two or a three vehicle ? Just a query, a few Z club guys in Brisbane, are looking at ways of getting their cars from Brisb to Melb/Phillip Island, for a long weekend, and return back to Brisb. Early August 2012 What pricing? It may happen again in 2013 for the Nissan Datsun Nationals. Door to door is nice! Also, just a bit of an idea, say, if i buy a rolling driver in Sydney, what am i looking at $$ to get it to Brisbane? These would be a no rush job, ie backload, so they could sit in your yard, on a waitlist. What yarding facility and security do you have at your Syd depot? Thanks

What many do not realise, is that urethane based bushes or items replacing rubber, is hydroscopic, or, it absorbs moisture, not a lot, but, over time the urethane base breaks down and the so called fantastic bush turns to crumble. Nismo used to supply harder durometer proper rubber items, but no more. We are left now to use aftermarket plastics. Oh, and i have never heard of "Energy Suspension" who or what are they?

My brain hurts, i thought about two year ago you did, or, someone from the Goldy did, gggrrr, cant remember! There is a user on secretdrift lives near me, got a pair of Rota Grids 15x8 0 offset in gold for sale at $300, just a pair name is savagenate, if anyone interested i could get rhem for you. He also selling set of Longchamps 15x9 15x7 at $1600 What are these really rhat special? If the Longchamps were around 600 the set, i'd grab them and get the 7" pair widened.

Ta Jake, it's for the little red car with the wide flares. Those 15 x10 Supalites you got from me, stuck out too far, they do a Chalkenger, same stick out, cant machine it back enuf. If i can get a 0 or a slight plus say 10 or 15, i can play with slip ons, or machine backside a bit. Currently the car is in up to 1969 CAMS spec, but i can now apply for up to 1981 spec, it ran the 10's in mid 1970's! With the usual lw profile Dunlop/Avon slick Four matching in 4 stud 114.3 datsun toyota etc

Hmm, trawled back through the 7 pages on this thread,, umm, Who can give me info on what they know or have seen of rims of an "older"style, ie Watas, Longchamps, etc that are around a 15 x 10", yes 10" wide, with around a 0 offsett? Reason, my Historic Datsun racecar, has the pissibility of being CAMS permitted to upgrade to a 15x10 and to runn full slicks. I have thrown on some 15x10 with a Neg 26 offsett, the outer protrudes past flares unacceptably, and thete is not enough "meat" on the back side/hubface of the rim to pull it back the 25 to 30 mm it needs. Who has seen what??? Other option is to go for three piece customs,,, pricey option for just a few meetings a year

The ," I want a two seater" brigade, want a near perfect rust free totally restored concouse condition perfect car, but only want to pay $2500 for it Most of us realise what $$ are involved, and we price pretty well accordingly. If, say, this was a 5 speed, in same condition, what would be an asking price? I'd say add another 1.5 k. Not at all hard to do a conversion, it's the body that will be a labour of love.

Juz0 i should have looked at your location in the sidebar, DOH! Edgar at Extreme Motorsports in Nudgee has a shock dyno, he is not a Bilstein agent, so he will give you an unbiased opinion. Once the valving is set on assembly they should stay at that, unless they have had a hard life. They can be re valved, but you need to know what they are now, what you need them to do, ie dirt, tarmac, circuit etc. If you are over my way, welcome to call in with all the bits and i can have a look at them, and steer you in right direction re any work needed or items you need.

Take all new stuff back, tell them it is incorrect fitment,request full refund for unused unfitted items in original packaging,,,, and that you have existing better quality Bilsteins! Since they are all out of car, contact/send them off for shock dyno testing, if thay are within limits for that model unit, then pay the dyno cost, and refit. If they need some work, then go ahead. Badically, if you can, with effort, put a unit between you legs with one end on floor, and other end in your palm of your hand, and push firmly down, and it comes slowly back up, and all feel the same, they will be pretty right. You cannot get a better quality unit, considering you already have them, your costs from here on will be minimal. I run them in three of my competition cars, and Koni Reds in a fourth( to comply with rules)

And ask this suspension shop, how many Datsun 240/260Z's they have already done? And have they done work for Jon Siddens, who is pretty well the Z guru on the Gold Coast. And how many years have they done such work. After all, you do want quality workmanship and product for your $2000 Me thinks they just do fooly sik hektic drift cars, and Mcpherson Strut/Chapman strut will cause confusion. If you do go this way, ask them can you take pics and post threads on Australia's biggest Z car forum, with over 3000 members, so we can all see and hear your experience, besides it could be advertising for them, ask for discount!! ( not all advertising can be good advertising, if it doesnt pan out well! )

Yes. Pm'ed you

For actual suspension setup, mods and alignment, go see Ken Graham in Timms ct Woodridge. Does work from basic to whatever you want, but take a fat wallet for the whatever you want stuff. Better off in some respect to do what you can at home etc, get the align close, then get it to Ken. I'm doing exactly that with a chaps Dato 1600, fitting front and rear coils and shocks, new bushes, slotting rear x member for adjustability, new brakes, then its off to Ken, he loosens, re aligns tightens and shes all done.

You'll get better tech help from this site than pretty much anywhere else, just have to ask the questions! Yes Jimmy has built up a few motors, i fit them in, and get my car back to him for final setup. Smart Auto now use Jamie Ede's Geebung shop dyno ( hard core drag racer workshop) I had the rally car ( 120Y ) up there and Jamie and the guys were nodding quiet approval at the figures it eas pulling! To get that from the drag guts is satisfying! What do you want to eventually do with your car? Bit of gentle track work? Easy peasy with QR and Lakeside, all you need is their track issued license, a bit of car prep, and you are set. QR is better for first time out, learn how to loose control and regather safely. Lakeside can bite for the unwary What are your aspirations for your car, and, for you!

Key whole could mean the key way on the front nose. As manufactured it has three small Woodruf keys, ie a pair of smicircular keys inserted into semicircular slots machined into crank, one for harmonic balancer and one for gear drive sprocket for oil pump, and one for timing chain drive sprocket. It is good practice., more "insurance" to machine the three little slots into one single long one, and use a single long key, of correct size, as you then have more surface area support, as the originals can shear. I do all mine this way, so will Peter Mac. Here endeth the lesson. Next question,,,, Grasshopper!

Aha, thank you, offer accepted! With your folks at Genoa, that is handy! But we dont need to impose! We will be staying in Eden on the Sat and Sun nite, will have a spare single bed going. There may well be others on here, once they read whats occuring, that may be interested in coming along? The event supp regs have been issued on the BegaRally website, go to "competitors" and download from link. We will be running full course, 190 kms competitive, approx 350 total, event is daylight only, one day Sunday 10th June, in supp regs is detailed service info. Thete will be plenty time for spectating. I have run these roads in md 80's they are BRILLIANT, hence the trip down from Qld. For first time they are running from further south, going into Vic. Anyone else interested in coming/spectating/ helping us out?? Let me know BTW the car is pretty reliable, but you never know, i bring a van full of stuff, in case!

The silver thing on the right in pic above, is positioned under the master approx 150 mm under, it is the line pressure differentiation switch, its purpose is to make a little red light in the dash come on when one circuit loses pressure compared to the other circuit, it has a side to side plunger, that when an imbalance in the two lines going in/coming out occur, the plunger slides, poking up a rod, that then makes contact, and turns light on. No, not the handbrake light! It is not the residual pressure valve Generally Aussie transport depts, do like this feature to work!

Holden gemini Isuzu g200 engine piston at 87.5 mm diam, has sufficient out the block that can be machined off to give flat top, and with 133 mm rods, pin height is still good. Cheap and obtainable, but just remember they are cast units. Iyou need to buy two sets, as they come in 4's I have 12 used but still in good cond of these i can sell off.

Just a little feeler going out, but does anyone on here know anyone, or is, in deep South Coast of NSW. Eden, Bega, Pambula, Merimbula, etc. South east coast of Vic is a bit too much to ask of!, unless some here are up for another dirty weekend! I could require a driver to drive a two seat service vehicle, ( silver Ford Transit) at the Bega Valley Rally, based in Eden, from Eden south west to Genoa, approx 60 kms, and back, during course of one day, Sunday 11th June. Just enquiring at this stage, there is plenty opportunity to spectate, but we need van at the three service points at specific times during the day. Nothing worse than coming in from special stages and finding the f****** crew has gone speccing, when you need fuel and tyres!! Event is a round of all three state championships, ie NSW, Vic and ACT.

Ah, too many toys, but loosing my capabilities , is an issue! I have this dinky little 120Y that could possibly be taking a trip to Bega, early June, for the combined 2012 round of the NSW/Vic/ACT Rally Championship, but first i am doing the Historic race meet at Warwick in a couple of weeks. See, too much to do already, without throwing in the potential of running the Australian Targa Champs. Still need to come up with a brake package, a Terratrip, and some nylon skid plating for the underside, or, ,,,,,,, just fit much stiffer springs to the Y, ,it is rally ready!

Dunno much about Mazda's but this model was the one that Allan Horsley here at Mazda Australia built up as a SP model, and absolutely dominated Prod Sports, it won Bathurst enduros. I think they are a well regarded model in Aus, so, i dont get the seemingly low insured value of 5000 euro. Would it be feasible to import it back, once repaired, with a view to sell it in a country that will pay more for it? Bearing in mind all costs associated I do look at pretty much all things from a competition/racing/sporting point of view, which is opposite to your keep it near stock and very neat modus operandi! Maybe cruise around the Ausrotary website see what is doing there, what demand is there for theses. As above, you do know your car well, rather than buying someone elses issues, maybe stick with it. Also, i dont get insurance companies these days, they are so quick to write off minor damage, there are so many recent model cars in wrecker yards, what doesnt help is the manufacturers will charge stupid markup for spare parts, based on bulk manufactured costs of parts, at time of part production. Example, a plastic bumper for a mid 90's Ford cost Ford, some $25 each, on spares division, it is over 20 times that Apparently it costs heaps to store things in a wharehouse. Here is another, current hotness is compact diesel turbo engine cars? Yeah! Just wait till they start getting to 200,000 kilometres on the engines, sorry dear owner, cannot economically rebuild/repair, so its off to the scrappers. They are not building the diesel engine to last 1 million kilometre, like old Toymotas! Sorry to digress and rant!

Listen RG,,,,, if Goeff Godwin can do it,,,,,,,! I think your chassis is a bit too modded to revert back to a standard category. In the good 'ole Yooessay, they ran them in IMSA in Prod Stock, as well as Modded, The modded were just over the top, but in Prod form, in class, they did quite well, mind you the Hunmobiles were also in Prod form, not like the fat wheel boys here? What gets me, in Targa rules, Kevin Weeks et al, can shoehorn 993 model running gear into a 1976 model bodyshell, and it is called Classic ( modified) but so is Jon Siddens and Matt Cardinale's cars, this really equates to us fitting r32 GTR full mechanicals, sans front wheel drive, into our shells, oh, but wait, you cant do that. Dave Robbo has a 2 seater, he was umming and aahing about it. But he has too many things on the go, and, a bit like me, the day to day workload just gets in the way! If i could offload one or two items, i'd think about it, besides my blue 280 with tarmac brake freedoms, would be pretty good to go, and it is bog stock unmodded!

Spacer plate thingys with O rings and longer bolts, maybe use hi tensile shanked capscrews? I fitted some S13 sylvia rotors on a car a while back, used a different car 4 piston caliper(ovlov 244!) but rather than machine out the throat/muck around with spacets etc, we just had a on car disc brake machine guy take 1 mm off each side to give us enuf clearance into the caliper. Not an issue with S13 sylvia rotors, plenty meat and good centre vane support, plus it will be two months before hell freezes over before rotors are too thin. Its on a road reg Datsun Sports 2000!. Those Peugot 505 rotors dont start life awfully thick!!! What 19 mm?

I run a small water line from under thermo housing, around front of head, along under spark plugs and into back of head near no 6 plug, ie a heater bypass, othetwise they can hotspot back around 6