dat2kman

They're the two from outside, There is a third one from my incar camera. Here, ( my smart daughter just worked out how to do this link thing, these young'uns, amazing !)

Lurch has put up a vid on youtube, only cos numpty boy here is a bit unable to edit stuff and has little knowledge of upload stuff Youtube search under user Lurcher260 Titled PI crash 2012 Historics or some such name or whatever Someone embed or link!

I have dainty delicate size 8 foots, and rather than Matt's way with his gigantor three toed clodhoppers, i use my heel on the bottom of the accel pedal, and toes on brake pedal. Other times i will left foot brake for rolling starts, ie Lakeside races, or to load up/weight teansfer going into a corner. It is also usefull to left foot brake momentarily so the other competitors behind me in a race get a bit of a accel pedal lift off, ie a WTF moment. Wearing snug thin flexible race boots helps. To OP, there is no readon why you couldnt weld on an additional bit of flat plate to the edge of brake pedal metal

After some up to 30 odd years of use/age, heat cycles, etc, the injection plug leads/wiring can break down and increase resistances. Test each lead, between injector socket plug, and the corresponding pins on the ECU end of the loom. Hopefully they should all be close in resistance values. Due to excessive bending or forcing, they can fracture, and resistance value will be quite different. To repair, the loom needs carefull removal, untapeing, and search for the break. It most likely will be in the first 50-80 cm from the injector plugs. Simple baring of wire, some shrink tubeing, soldering, and sealing will fix it. The actual plugs that connect to the fuel injectors are commonly available, and eadily replaceable, the spring clips are a pain though!

I actually find the stock pedal setup, while wearing thin soled very flexible race boots, works quite well. Biggest issue i do have is lack of enough clutch pedal depression on gearchanges, which in racing tends to be a fair bit quicker than normal road use..

What'd they charge you for that? Do a dummy assy to check for clearance for anti rattle thin shim gear behind the new larger counter front bearing. Bit of kids plasticene or play-doh. That bearing needs oil getting into it. If 71c cluster, the top selector rod hole in bell needs drilling out to 16mm.

Any silicon tube type sealant, thin smear with fingers either side of centre plate, and under front cover, on the outer edges. The pin and circlips at gearstick, as well as pin and circlip that holds gearstick reciever into extension housing, a decent dob of slicon on the circlips, keeps them from popping off in use.

I did similar for Variety, The Childrens Charity, over 23 years, raised approx $1,200,000, by approaching as many businesses as pissible, with full credentials from and for the charity in question, and pleaded with them to help me help the children. You ask them for a cheque, payable to the charity, not made out to you, in that way the registered charity can issue a tax deductible reciept, for the cheque writer. You can try tin rattling, every Thurs/Fri/Sat night at every local RSL/Leagues/Services/Golf/Bowls club, surprisingly you will raise plenty. Sausage Sizzles, using donated bread/snags/bbq etc outside Bunnings works too. It takes a lot of work.

Now do a mock up with no roof, but keep the "hip" behind the doors.

Dickie, what the hell are you on about? Having another Alf from Home and Away, "flamin heck" moment. Look like now there are TWO different opportunities to enter Regularity field for Mt Panorama in 2014, The 12 Hour weekend, around Feb 6-9, and Easter weekend, later in March.

Supp regs are same for Reg as well as racing, as far as CAMS events concerned, same thing. At this stage only confirmed fields are 1x 50 Group N tourers, and 2x50 car max Regularity. As per event organisers. It wont be a Historics event either!

I now have the basic supp regs/application forms. Can email them to anyone, to then get them put up as a pdf file. I am asking about combining historic Gp S sports and Gp N tourers, it has been done before!! My Z will run in top 10-20 of the usual gp N fields!

Before you start on pipedeam number 68, get yourself down to Lake Gairdiner in SA at the next Auusie Speed Week. Take note of what they do, and how they do it. Or head over to Bonneville USA, same thing, but just awesome. It is doable, but aero is crucial, as well as a long bit of straight road. Conrod straight, and Northern Territory are no out.

Be gay, camp,,, it's great fun, just dont drop the soap in the showers. Links to event organiser/entry forms. Any race events? For what classes, maybe drag out all these Gunna high hp high spec Sooper Z's everyone is all going on about, see if they exist!

Dave W, i can do you a nice cheap all alloy 4.4 litre motor that would be a better unit than the Chevrolet engine that Nissan used in the first of the 380 sports racers!

May be easier to pick up a whole car, one that has wrapped the side or backend around a power pole, or got bent playing DriftKing etc! Strip it out, chuck away bits you dont need, or sell off bits on sau forum

Said mechanic no doubt googled " datsun Z car prices" and took note of just the 2 seaters. Or, it is a pristine fully rebuilt with some substantiating documentation. They are going up in value though, and there are less to go around, as the years go on!

And you are prepared to spend how much to obtain a car? And you are prepared to spend how much to then make the car do and perform how you want? What do you want it for? A weekend fun toy, a once a month track weapon, a tarmac missile?

Not Datsun specific, but i have the following, all are extremely well regarded and very informative for doing it right, the first time. Carroll Smiths three, Prepare to Win, Engineer to Win, and Tune to Win. Fred Puhn's How to make your car handle. The Honsowetz book, How to Modify your Datsun. A number of books on Fitting, Machining Turning etc.

Amazing, my U20 four cylinder head intake/exhaust pirts, are eggsakerely the same as that above pic from Alan!

Even rarer than S20 or Ford BD series, is, FJ24 I only have one, but that will do me!

You're all forgetting the really good one! U20 with factory options, in a SR311 Direct lap time comparisons, to a, then new, ligthened caged and prepped for Tarmac rallyspirt, a R35 GTR, so some 42 years age gap. The 1968 year model SR311, was only 1second a lap slower, over 2100 metres, with corners. Meh, S20!

In each of the photos above, Seeing as we will need to source the brake rotors, and the calipers here in Australia, What are the DBA numbers for the rotors? What model and year car are the calipers from? What are the DB numbers for the pads? Obviously USA items, but with cross referencing of numbers, we should be able to source these here in Aus! The flexible brake lines, what are the DOT approval stampings, as we will need to ensure they are equivalent to ADR's ( Australan Design Rules, our Dept of Tranport equiv here!) The brackets do look very well manufactured!

Jake, the current draw on the Carter will be stretching the boundaries of the stock wiring, and may not be getting full amps. Better to run a dedicated wire with relay control to ensure as close to 100%. i run ignition controlled tachymetric in the fuel injected race Z, i figure that if i get involved in a serious enough hit, ie loss of conciousness, and engine stall, i dont want a 60+ psi fuel fountain getting ignited if lines get torn etc. I'm running an intank low press high vol lift pump to 2 litre surge, mounted under, then into a Bosch 44 pushing it up front, with a Malpasi reg on the return flow, back into surge pot, not ideal, as returned fuel is warm, but at least pot is kept full, with top o/flow back into main tank. Prior to this setup it was getting inconsistent fuel flows, lean outs and bad surge through right hand corners, ie Qld Raceway and Lakeside!

This topic bugs me! Ok, as far as motorsport in Australia is concerned, ie Historic, the requirement for, Group N Touring cars is, the car must have been actually sold to the public, within the given years period, model run on permitted. Group N Hist Touresrs cutoff date is December 1973. For Group Nc. IF, and or WHEN, they introduce Group Nd, ie a later years/models, and if that were to go to, say,, December 1976, THEN, our Datsun 260Z in 2+2 form only, WILL comply, it practised and qualified at the Bathurst 1000, and meets the requirements. Also, the Group N tourers get radiator, ignition, carburrettor, and most importantly brake freedoms, ie a vented rotor to stock diameter, AND four piston calipers!! Now, back to Sports Cars, ie Group S Historics, the ruling is, there must ge documented proof, ( not heresay, he said she said, my mate has no 4 etc) but documented original proof that a 240 Z WAS SOLD to a purchaser prior to December 1969, ANYWHERE in the world. Group S does not have the requirement that it must have geen deliverd and sold in Australia only. Ie a Shelby 350GT Mustang, a Group Sb car, was not sold here, they were LHD. That sets the precedent. My other isdue is the fitting by dealers, OR the factory, of items from the Options Parts Catalogues, we MUST have proof, documented, that cars were made available to be purchased with items fitted, not bought, and fitted later. These did exist, in Africa, the UK and Europe, in period 1970 through to 1975, these were actual cars built from NEW, and registered for use on public roads, with the extra bit fitted, ie wide rims, triple carbs, vented four spot brakes. It comes down to actual proof, Not third hand rumour and conjecture, or the recollections of those who have been around Datsuns around the world, for many years. The above requirements are those in effect by the Australian Motosport official body CAMS, not FIA.