dat2kman

AP are quite expensive. I had four calipers recoed, new pistons, seals, also renewed all lines, masters and balance assy on a Historic Sports Sedan. Total cost $3200 It has to be period correct, it ran AP's in the day. I have since found a supplier in Ireland, Murray Motorsport, who can and have supplied me more items for other AP calipers on other cars, at half the price the Aussie distributor wants to charge! The AP bleed nipples are quite large rhread diam compared to Wlwoods, any competent brake recondition shop should be able to supply new nipples, cut the taper seats in the calipers to suit, and use a bottoming tap the cut a straight thread, ie not tapered. I've also used correct thread sized blanking bolts and a ball bearing, to blank off unused bleed or line in ports, ie Volvo four piston Girling calipers, that works well.

BUGGA! I too am guilty of chucking too much broken stuff out. Engine mounts for Dato asports 2000's are hard to get, i have two sets here that i will get done as wrll, have a set in the racecar now, no sag, no sponginess, after five years of racing! Any others, just put them in a bag/box and pist by snail mail, when i get enough, ie about 10-12 individual items, i'll get down to the bloke. Send no money! Just the items, cleaned please!

The tapered seat is not sealing correctly. The fluid will then slowly leak. New bleed niples, if not fixed, then the caliper will require a taper machined and posdibly a new thread cut with larger diam thread bleed nipples. A decent/large brake reco shop should be able to do this.

I don't see why not. He'd need to assess what the std rubber hardness is, and allow for age/deterioration. If partly torn he can see the relationship between the top plate/cup, and the bottom socket. Send em up, can only ask/try!

You sure there was'nt a drop bear on the ground that you mighta hit? It would take a fair amount of sudden stop g-force to do that, as you said tyres skidded brakes locked.try easing up the engine on each side, with a block of hardwood on the jack, not much mind, llok for a separation of the rubber to the mount plates. They certainly look nice and cleanish, ie not oil/grease encrusted!

Ppfffft, Canberra's nothing, Try living up in the Snowy's They have special winter fuel, and run light oils, machinery gets parked outdoors overnight, gotta be goid batteries, fuels and oils to handle that. Couple years back at Targa High Country baded up on Mt Buller, in November!!, just could not get temps in engine, ended up slipping piece of cardboard box half in front of radiator, and ran first couple stages downhill, it eventually got warm! Trucks use roller blind/ shutters to close off airflow. Maybe try a pull up bit of mini blind and a bit of cable over top of radiator running back into cabin.

And if your car is on Qld Club Rego, you can drive it to and from, and you dont even have to be a member of the HRCC to do so! To check out some up close action, do a search on youtube for something like "my mates alfa vs Mustang vs Datsun" If you find it, embed it here! Close tight racing, and all well behaved!

Yes, well noted Dave. I dont see any pro-active measures from AASA in regard to the large number of on track incidents occuring, yes it is cheap now to run aasa, any legal cases arising from severe incidents get severe "non disclosure" clauses, you cannot obtain a copy of the policy which covers your arse. The proliferation of "wanna-be" racres that front with often dodgy eyebrow raising "cars" at aasa meets have well given us more on track incidents, some quite severe. In the main, the Gen Y, and in some cases, the Gen Old Fart mentality is, the biggest fastest highest horsepower, lets go as fast as we can, just to beat ( insert name of other Gen Y/Gen OF type) and improve PB's every time,, Is all frought with danger, and it is showing, especialky at a local Brisbane venue. There doesnt exist the mindset of progression, learning, improvement, ie get the brakes right, then get the handling right, now go out and LEARN to drive, then go and LEARN to drive on a race track, jump a few years, ok, lets upgrade your engine, etc. Now we have a huge qty of never heard of's shortly about to be unleadhed at Eastern Creek on World Time Attack, majority have never done this before, ie been on a bluudy race track! But they have HUGE fat chequebooks, and this "i wanna win NOW" mentality. Yes, you're right, AASA has made it ver easy, cheap, and simple, for just about anyone, to be a champion.

Recent posts have prompted me to this. I have access to a crusty grumpy old bloke (no not 260det) that has a dirty old factory that makes up rubber compounds for various industrys. I have had him do for me engine and box mounts, he grumbles cos they're one offs! If i can give him say 8- 10 of each, he can do a job lot, all in the one rubber compound. Our standard rubber from Nissan is around 60 durometer hardness, ie soft spongy dig in your thumbnail. Nismo Competioin durometer hardness is around 80-90. You cannot dig in your thumbnail, but it is still flexible. Cost per new item, $80 approx,,,, BUT,, I need old ripped torn broken ones,!! Please clean grease off with kero first! Posted to me in a regular mail parcel, not express, just good old regular mail. You all just chuck these away! Dont! Send to : ( use numerals when you write the parcel ! ) Twenty Six Canterbury Place The Gap 4061 Once i have a qty of each, i'll advise when ready Ok, Express your interest and desire below,,,,,

The rubber mounts to engine, due to age, oil, grease and 30 years of flexing, will have just torn off their plates, the brackets to crossmember can be eadily pushed back into correct verticals. The gearbox mount also will have finally torn, the box jumped up, and the whole lot moved forward. Disconnect radiator hoses, use a coupla of jacks, ( not on the sump ) and lift engine up sufficiently to clear the engine rubber mounts. Remove, and replace with new. Jack up at trans, drop box x-member, replace box rubber mount. It's scary to think that an engine is just held in like that, imagine a violent roll over, unless held in by enscapulted bush mounts, the lot will come flying out! I am looking at getting a job lot of engine and box mounts re-rubbered in a firmer rubber , same spec as Nismo mounts, but stiffer than stock ones. But i will need lots of torn ripped sagged broken ones, in advance!

Yes, but, they are genuine, and have the stamp marking to prove, and cost over $650 each, new, Not like the fake replica knock offs i can supply, Without the WWW stamp, and at less than half the new Wata price!! They do look good!!

Xnke, we have a commercial machine shop here that does a .889 fifth gear, but it is at standard width, and they only do small batch runs, when they can fit them in. If you were to produce some wider, and closer to 1.0 fourth fifth gear pairs, at a better tooth count than the horrid 0.752 or the not so bad 0.832, i am sure there would be a few down this way interested in purchading! The Sylvia/180sx/200sx model that was a JDM car that many were private imported to Australa, had the C type boxes with a 0.832 fifth. The larger six cylinder engined, both in line and V config motors, ie rb, vg/vq using the C type box, had the 0.752 fifth, ( great for economy!) I'd be interested in obtaining a qty of fifth gear sets, rather than sending individual sets over time. I have been converting a number of both B and C types to close ratio sets, and have found that the C types are quite superior to the B box, including the fjturbo box ( DR30 model) Jason

So whats stronger, got bigger mainshaft, thicker gears, more supported selectors, better synchro setup. Fj20det 71 B type overdrive fifth Or Sr20det 71 C tupe/rb20det 71 Ctype overdrive fifth.

Yes correct, absolutely, spot on, A-1. Stick to AASA, much more transparent. Ask to take away a copy of their insurance policies, that, are to cover your arse, for perusal and understanding. See how far you get. AASA has, of course, trained ALL their flaggies, scrutineers, event directors, haven't they, ,,, ,, oh wait,, wot,, they all got trained by some other organisation, at the expense of their members,,,,, nnnnooooo!!

Pics of gir,,, Oh wait, wring forum!

Liddle's Cylinder heads south west suburbs, working from his home. Does readonable work, knows L series.

I got a couple of fjt boxes here, you dont need bellhousing, swap your bell over. I'll pull them out over weekend and check them over, and make sure they have the 5th you want. Easy enough to crate it up and get it to a transport depit near you, IIRC, both are in pretty good cond, may not need anything, just bolt in and go!

I did three years at St George TAFE, fitting/machining/turning/welding, got my papers, and took out top student for each of the three years! That bottom pic is from Nugent's shop in Dubbo, called in there a few years back, he makes body bucks from scratch, then hand beats alloy panels to finish with the above. Wait till you experience the English Wheel, marvellous simple bit of stuff!

It's a 2person job, use a 3' bit of garden hose, a funnel, you get under a safe secured xar, stick hose end in box, have mate get 1.5 litres as quick as pissible into funnel, stop, let all drain down, THEN, have him pour small amount, let drain, repeat repeat, when you can feel it ALMOST at bottom edge of hole, use pinky finger, one more small bit, drain down hose, screw in filler plug, do not overtighten, and job done.

Yes have plenty avail

4k? Nah, but 40k gets you a cracking race car that coan be historic regod for some tarmac fun

The requirement will filter down to AASA. Most of their "scrutineers" ( who dont actually inspect any cars ! ) are CAMS guys anyway! At least with cars running half cages the back seat occupants and the rear half of the interior are well protected! The idiocy of the transport laws, ie must permit ingress/egress, thus dis-allowing a front half cage , is stupid. There has been a flurry of full caged rally cars getting logbooked, made barely road registerable, then getting road registration, only to be stripped apart to then slowly complete a complete and proper buil, due to the changes in Aus transport laws and full ROPS.

They're Albins ratios. With SR box, they are 50 mm longer o/all, ie need to shorten tailshaft by 50 mm The gearstick in a sr box will come up in centre of gearstick hole in floorpan of 260 shell. The box to floorpan mount is 30 mm rearwards compared to L box in a late 240 or 260 floor. Early 240 floor ( old style box mount) much easier, just drill two new holes in floor, ans a couple bits of rectangular 4 mm thick plate and usual bolts. Later, use a couple pieses 120 mmx80 mm 12 mm thick rubber, and a piece of 6 mm pate, drilled with four holes to allow for 30 mm offset, the stock 260z box to floor mount gets two holes drilled in the dimples. Pretty easy. Yes the sr as well as ca or rb and fj box will need a sr bellhousing, a bit of jiggling around with front countershaft bearings, and check the 1/2selector rod diam as bell may need a 16 mm drillbit into the CORRECT selector support hole. For cluster clearance either plunge face cut inside of bell by 2 mm ( makes it weak, i dont like that) or, Remove/modify the anti rattle tooth gear at front of lower countershaft. If wanting to use rb20det box, stick comes up at front of the gearhole, but tailshaft remains stock, ie rb20det box is same length as L B type box, BUT these have a .75 fifth. Same with VL commo ( rb30) non turbo The sr boxes have a .83 fifth Gareth if you are after any of these, i have a few of each, and can supply close ratio sets for any of them.

Motorsport accessories/Extreme has the thin small stuff at 36$ a piece, that will suffice. If a car has any form of ROPS, no matter what, and, when in seated pos, with harness on, and helmet, any part of ROPS that MAY be contacted by helmet, now, must have this stuff on. Pool noodle type stuff is not acceptable. Imagine, severe frontal impact, torso mves forward, neck stretches, belts stretch, top f helmet hits the rops bar section above windscreen, or, rollover, head flung violently, helmet contacts rops. It is these areas that need covering. But not the whole rops. Richard if you are running, or anyone, a half cage, where main hoop, is positioned to rear of headrest, rear of seat sides, ie your helmet simply cannot touch the rops, then you DON'T nedd to fit anything. Has this been raised at ZCCQ meetings, as the scrutineer for MP would/should have made mention of it.

The requirement to comply for ALL vehicles in CAMS motorsport events will be enforced from July 1 in 2013. It must be marked with "SFI 45-1" You can use the "mini" pieces, these will fit 1.5" to 2" is not a "full half circle" and complies. Price should be around $36 per 3 foot piece. ( $45 for the larger half circle) Just a heads up guys!