.

I can't take time off work but if it is on the weekend I'll be there.

I'm just glad that mankini is going the other direction!!! Geeez don't have an accident or speed or anything the authorities might lock you up.....although you'll be in Tasmania so you might get it on with your brother.

Is now a good time to mention that I work for customs? ........What flight are you on again

Ok, you know more about the process. I would say the reason is that they have been burned in the past when jobs like that have gone wrong. Sure its possible but it still sounds risky. One little mishap and they don't get a second chance. It would be tough to calm down a customer thats just lost a unique item.

Sorry to highjack this thread but how about a TVR Speed 6 4.0L (3996 cc/243.851 cu in) 360-405 bhp N/A straight 6 oooooohhhhh yyeeaahh sorry I need to go change my undies

Powder coating is more like a plastic than a paint. So masking wouldn't really work. I think painting is your only option unless the wheels can be dismantled

Sacrificial anodes are generally chunks of zinc. My theory is that when our cars were new they had a lot of zinc plated stuff attached to the cars. This zinc material acted (by accident or by design I'm not sure) as a sacrificial anode. As our cars have aged the zinc is sacrificed until there is none left to sacrifice then the rust grows quicker. There seems to me to be a correlation between the amount of rust in a car and the lack of zinc plating found on the various components. By the way sacrificial anodes are cheap ($2-$10) so even if it doesn't work there is nothing to lose.

formal car??? Does that mean you have to dress your car up in taffeta? Or will you bein taffeta? Pics please

Yeah, Horses for courses. If all out power is your aim then RBs are an option (Not the only option). My reasons for staying with the L are: 1. That sound. Way better than an RB!!! 2. I own 2 L powered cars so I can swap bits if something dies. 3. There was no conversion required and it retains some of the lineage of the car. 4. Simplicity, I am no mechanic so simplicity is important.

Thats really good to know. Any pics? Also does anyone have a set of those strips (from a 240z) they don't want anymore?

Firstly I am not sure about the 2+2 but for the 2 seater a lot of people (me included) don't run a rear sway bar at all. Secondly if you have a 2+2 it should already have the R200. Thirdly, no it won't make a difference to the sway bar in size and space terms but the extra weight may make a difference to the handling.

Oh yeah!!!!

I am pretty sure I sold a L24 Flywheel to a guy who was bolting it to an L28. I think they are lighter weight. I can't be sure either. But I can be sure that I can't be sure.

Replace the fuse with a nail. It will double the life of your blinkers from 5 minutes driving to 10 minutes driving........sure you car will catch fire and burn to the ground but at least you'll have doubled the life of your blinkers.

yeah its ok. It reminds me of a jensen heally. My brother had one from about 1980 - 1998 it was a great car if you could put up with oil leaks. Very light and nimble with the lotus twin cam 2 litre. http://www.jensenhealey.com/people/owners/jamesbrinkley/jamesJH.jpg

Yeah and don't lose one in a parking lot........."Officer Officer I lost my cherry!!!"

I'll offer you $1 . thats all its worth!!!

I am reasonably sure all the bolts were the same. More likely they modified it to use another starter that used bigger bolts. If it helps I have buckets of bolts you can try. They are very valuable bolts though so I want them back

Mate there is nothing wrong with an L20 turbo. Go for it!

Mate, I'm sure I can match that colour, Banana yellow right? Bring it around and we'll do it on my back yard.......You won't notice the inclusions I promise

Bingo garbage? I thought thats what I was supposed to get. I have been playing for hours now....Well better get back to it

Where are you? Its worth getting together with some locals to get some inspiration. Make sure you have an absolute end goal in mind or you will find yourself wasting money by doing things twice. (eg L series rebuild then changing your mind and going with an RB turbo route) Also for any work you do have to farm out, do it in the smallest possible chunks. It minimises the risk of cost blow out and delays by the shop. When you start your project check the us parts sites.....they are your friend Blackdragon and Motorsport Auto are two good ones.

If Fufu doesn't need them anymore I will be interested. I need a second hand pair (not pear) so I can make a mould from them.

Hmmm If you are willing to mod your car try the rear diff mount from an Impressa (not just the WRX) Their diff mount will bolt straight on to our diffs (so long as you have an R180) then you just need to bolt the mount through the underside of your floor. But being a V8 I suspect you are running an R200?

I realised a while ago that I am running the wrong plenum on my L28. It is from an L24E I think. Anyway I have checked and I have three spares but they are all different models (although almost identical looking). P71, P88, P72 I am going to have a head modified and the ports matched. I am also going to have the plenum excruded. But I want to know how to choose between the three? Should I just fill them with water and the one with the biggest volume wins? Or should I go with the P88 because it is likely to be the latest design encorporating minor improvements? I also thought about slicing two in half welding in some trumpets on each runner and then putting the plenum over the top but it doesn't look like it would work. Any suggestions?