.

ha ha ha I can see you reflected in his engine parts. That car is wicked!!!

You have some fun ahead of you. Many of us know first hand. Keep us informed of the progress. Good luck

Guys, Take your pick $10 each item plus postage. If they don't sell in the next week they are getting dumped. whale tail R160 Subi LSD R180 open (240z) R200 open (260z) 260z Front calipers (I have three (1.5 sets)) 280zx Series 1 Rear calipers (I have four (2 sets) L series Starter motor (Who am I kidding might as well chuck it now) I also have a set of weird calipers. I have no idea where they came from. I can only guess they were a conversion done to one of the cars I've wrecked. I suspect someone has put them on the back of a 280zx because the bolt patern is the same. The pad area is more than twice the area of the standard Series 1 pads. I think they would be an excelent conversion for someone wanting more performance and it happy to run with a hydraulic handbrake. I am led to believe they are Bluebird or TRX calipers. They are the fronts because there is no handbrake mechanism. Let me know if you are interested.

yeah mine was off the net but I don't think the guy is around any more

Hey guys, Sorry to revive the thread but I can't see an answer to the ideal settings question? I just had my wheels aligned after a few events and the front was pretty good but the back is a bit wonky. 10.5mm on the left and 4.0mm on the right. Its the first time I've had the back done. Is re welding my only option? and Should I increase the right to 10.5mm or decrease the left to 4.0MM The wheel alignment guy thought it should be more like 4mm???

The Flamingo has flamin gone!!

Yup I have one too. Just be aware you need an area to keep the kit away from absolutely everything. I started storing it in my shed.....instant surface rust on everything near it...Now I just leave it all outside. I agree with the cleaning comments. I use dishwashing detergent, paint stripper, degreaser and a wire buff. The parts must be absolutely clear of paint, dirt and grease. You can't even touch the parts with your hand after cleaning or they need cleaning again.

Thanks but I tried that already and something is wrong. It tells me I was doing 276 KMPH thats why I have said all along I don't know what speed I was doing.

Well it was a rusty shell when I started...Maybe there's not as much metal in my car. But yeah you might be right. I have only had it on the Dyno once so its quite possible that dyno was reading low on the day. That 190 at Lakeside was with the 4.6 diff and screaming at top revs. Thats the only reason I can confirm the speed because I know the car couldn't go faster with that diff. I guess the only peice of the puzzle that I can't confirm is the ratio of my 5th gear. There is a slim chance that the previous owner of that Gear box may have changed the standard 5th for something with less legs. Headlights, ba who cares.....unless they are gold plated.

They are special ones for the straps. They have the bent lug on the end that hooks into a bracket welded to the underside of the body.

I have a 280 gear box, a 3.9 diff and 16 inch wheels. I was doing between 6500-7000 RPM and my speedo was off the dial. Those are the facts. Make of it what ever you like. I don't know of any other variables that can stuff that calculation but obviously something is wrong. I am not trying to tell you what speed I was doing because none of it makes any sense to me. But lets put it this way I was catching most cars on Conrod, there were a few cars edging past me but nobody went whizzing past. But also a certain 1600 driver (who shall remain nameless) did a GPS confirmed 180 down conrod with no aero and a bog standard 1600 with SUs producing something like 90HP.......Like I was saying the Gravity does the rest. and by the way I do 190KM through the kink at lakeside with the same HP and that one I am sure of. Lakeside is not a good comparison at all. It was pedestrian compared to Conrod. I was building heaps of extra speed due to the drop in altitude.

OK sounds like that confirms my thinking then. I too was changing to 5th just at the rise going up mountain straight. So it must just be a lack of power that is costing me in the cutting. (I only have 130HP at the rear wheels) Power is not such an issue down conrod.

I am having a problem with my EFI. I think it is fuel related. The engine will not idle. The engine will only run with the throttle at one specific position. Any more or any less and the engine wants to die. It feels like a fuel problem. But when I get the throttle in exactly the right spot it runs smooth. I have replaced the fuel filter with no change to the problem. I am reasonably sure the fuel pump is ok. I am now thinking it is the fuel pressure regulator. My logic is that if it were an injector problem it would run rough regardless of the throttle position. It feels like the fuel pressure is only enough for a specific amount of air flow. Openning the throttle makes the mixture too lean because the regulator is not forcing more pressure. Is my logic sound? Any other suggestions? Thanks Greg

I agree with the sentiment. But then where do you draw the line. There would end up being a class for a single entry of particular models and you'd end up with 100 different classes. Its a bit like those participation awards in primary school. Maybe the minimum number could be lower, I guess trophies don'e cost much. but anything 2 or less is a joke cause then you are garunteed a place. I was awarded best 280zx in 2005 amongst a field of about 5 and I felt guilty then. Also don't forget about the logisitics during the awards. It would be a really long night if you awarded 2 places for each and every datsun model.

Last nationals we had the same problem. Some people want the even limited to zeds so the classes become simple. Other people want it open to all models. My suggestion is to make it open for all models but only make models eligible for a specific class if there are more than a minimum number of that model attending. In other words the organisers work out how many participants with each model are needed before it is feasible to have a class for them. I suspect it would be between 5-10. So participants with models with less than that attendance would still be eligible for general classes ("best at show" etc and maybe a catch all class of "unusual cars") but to be eligible for a particular class there would need to be a siginificant number of them attending. This methodology could apply across the entire range of models, thus not excluding anyone.

Any chance you have the bolts that attach the fuel tank straps? If so how much do you want for them?

Most of the zeds were passing them up the mountain too. Mine was just too underpowered / high geared.

I also grind the back lugs of the diff (we don't use them) that saves me another KG so make that 11KG saving

That matches my understanding. There is another option....just to complicate things further. You can purchase an LSD centre for an R180. But as you mentioned for the R200 you need to take care with the number of splines. For me it made sense to go with the STI diff. I got one for $300 plus $600 for the stub axles. Thats $900 all up for an LSD that is less than 10 years old.

Those statements are generally correct but you can't account for idiots. Someone might have welded this one....that may be why it let go in the first place.

Yes that was Lee.

The STI R180 is a bolt in option except for 2 things. 1.You need to swap the drive shaft flange for one from a zed. 2.You need the stub axles to insert in the STI diff and bolt to your half shafts. You will ethier have to get these made or get a set from the USA.

Here are the Bathurst videos. Sorry about the quality. I didn't realise the camera tends to point up. Next time I will need to have them further down my nose. It seems so much slower on video too.

More WantabeWATANABEs http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WATANABE-wheel-set-16-SILVIA-JDM-Mint-condition_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4148e5f033QQitemZ280395903027QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories