Zedman240®

A friend of mine once used a car wheel valve directly inserted into an old master cylinder reservoir cap and then used a bike pump to add some pressure. It only took a couple of pumps to get enough pressure to bleed the system.

Simple solution, Block Ken!

Does anyone close the door by grabbing the chrome frame rather than the door itself?

I remember ROb from the Z factory made a tool out of a large flatblade screw driver to lift up the folded lip of the door skin for removal. It was heated and the tip bent into a "J" shape, but a tight radius almost like a hook. It gets under the skin and lifts up so then the door skin can be removed and the door frame sand blasted etc without damage to the skin. Hope there's something useful for you!

I wouldn't like to use his spray painter; slight case of overspray under the bonnet! Plus the door frame crack is common for people closing their zed doors from the chrome frame instead of the door itself. I bet the new owner is going to find lots of oxidized "surprises"...

My 70 240 didn't come with a compliance plate or rear demister dammit... But George's 240Z from the US did come with a rear demister with retractable seatbelts and belt warning lights and buzzers.

Those Simmons wheels look like they wont fit a zed; offset looks more like a front wheel drive than rear.

Check crank angle sensor/ign module. Are you getting injector pulses while its cranking? Do you hear them clicking away?

Test the gauge my grounding the sensor wire to the block and see what it reads. Should go to full if all is well (except the sensor!) Might need two people for that test...

I'm about 90% sure that's a 280ZX gearbox. I remember it was a pain to fill the oil in the gearbox with the exhaust in the way of the filler plug on the passenger side! Whereas the 260's are on the drivers side.

I thought you would've followed your own advice there...

Nahh..that's from their website. The one I painted looks like the Monte Carlo Rally 240Z ie black bonnet and red. Waiting to get a chassis from a friend to mount the body and drive it again. I wouldn't mind a 240Z body in 1/6 scale for off roader. Anyone know someone who works with polycarbonate and molds?

Hey Stef, they do have a 240Z body shell available now. I still have one that I painted but kept it and sold another one. ABC Hobby in Japan make them and a hobby shop in Dandenong can get them in. This one though craps on the ABC one for scale appearance. Might have to buy one of these now...oh well.

Ouch! must have had an altercation with a paint truck? Good for parts though, me think rear chassis floor would look like an accordion!

Hey Pauly, I think he meant de-rusting (I hope!!) As with mods, the way I see it, as with my car, all the mods that I have done, everything can be put back to stock. I wouldn't do anything that couldn't be reversed if it had to be done. For example an RB engine conversion. If I was to fit a turbo RB and use the transmission from one, you would have to remove the original transmission mounts to fit the bigger turbo box. I haven't touched mine (used a NA RB box which is smaller) and as I am going back to an L series motor, everything should go back as it was from Nissan. If you decide on fitting a L28 or Cummins diesel, as long as you keep all the original components, you should be fine. If you want to change the radio, find another average console and butcher that; same with the interior, remove what you want to keep and buy second hand stuff you can modify. Then if you ever want it stock, just remove and replace. Just my 2c!

Looking real good there...almost makes me want to cut my wheel arches!!

For that price, you could buy EFI HArdware TB's from Steve and get them alot sooner!

Welcome to the forums! More zeds in Melbourne are always welcomed...The missing indicators are normal for 240's. After 74 with the first 260's they started to appear. We should have bumper mounted ones but mine are long gone....

I think it's a good idea, specialy like you said for those one off jobs that dont justify a big spend for one thing you will only do once in your life! As for the tools that are lost or broken, you would hope the borrower/lender is honest enough to say "sorry, I damaged your tool..how much do I owe you?". Or am I living in a dream world? I do have a few tools I'd be happy to lend and have done before; I have some spring compressors and a carby balancer. But there's a saying that I'm sure alot of people have heard.. "lending your tools is like lending your wife; they both come back f$%#ed!" Hope that won't be true if we do start this tool shed..

+1 ^ Next thing would be to have meets at Maccas....

Save yourself heaps of grey matter and just borrow a GPS Sat nav and that should tell your Kph pretty accurately.

My zed may not have an engine by then so I'll have to come along with the Xtralis...should be good to catch up with all of youse...

Hey Mike, are they plastic or metal? Wouldn't mind a set myself.....

It plugs into the original wiring; just have to make a small loop back wire that goes onto the volt reg connector. I did something similar when I installed the RB engine with the Skyline alternator in the 240.

The problem is if somebody doesnt install the locking bolt correctly, and they end up hammering it into place, it burrs the sides of the flat part of the spindle pin making it bigger meaning when it comes time to remove it, it moves back and forth but not out! When I removed mine, it just needed extra brute force to hammer them out with a suitable drift to "extrude" it through the smaller hole of the a-arm. I think new pins from Nissan are around $120 each....I think..