Zedman240®

Excellent news there.....can't wait for the in car footage especially!

Heres a pic of Nicks new arrival in fresh paint! Hope Nick can supply some more details...

To me, and I'm sure everyone agrees here, Custom = $$$. Would've been good to win that gearbox but when Stan told me what can go wrong with them, it did put me off. I would rather spend the $$$ on an original 260 gearbox, sourcing close ratio gearsets and making it bullet proof. I'm sure you could do it to that option 1 gearbox but with a lot more cash! Plus you would need an engine that could take advantage of the close ratio gearset.

I think the Megasquirt system is like a DIY fuel injection; like buying one from Dick Smith and assemble it yourself.. Some people source throttle bodies from some large Japanese motorcycles (1000cc+) and bolt them to manifolds. You could always see what you can make yourself as long as you do alot of research.

Welcome to the forums! A reason I wouldn't like a 240Z as an everydayer would be the thought of some d#$khead taxi driver doing a u-turn in front of you. Bye bye 240Z even with any insurance! A zed after a hit is never the same. Good luck with your search....Oh, BTW, main thing to look for is the standard thing with old cars...rust, rust and more rust! Mechanicals can be changed, bodyshells a little harder...

I remember when I first joined the NDSOC and at a MSCA event there was a club member with a quick 260Z that had a L28 with triple Solex carbs and on the manifold next to the head were six injectors. He was using the Solex carbies as throttle bodies when he ran the injection. Worked very well by the results!

If you are just going to putt around town and get good fuel economy, the L28 EFI setup is ok. If you want any power, ditch that inlet manifold and get yourself either the Turbo L28 inlet manifold with a larger throttle body (hard to source) or a triple Weber manifold and 6 throttle bodies. I know it costs alot but I've had no issues with my setup ever since I installed it.

The wife had an appointment this morning so that guaranteed my no show...any other ones planned before the end of the year?

I'm sure as Glen said that is what he wants to do. Those 280ZX efi intake manifolds don't breathe at all at anything above 5000 rpm. Unless you have a inlet manifold from a turbo 280ZX that have bigger plenums I wouldn't bother.

The gearbox sold for $2950. My max bid was around $2700 but luckily I missed it! Been told by a good source that the problem with the "option" gearboxes is when and not if they go "bang", replacement parts are impossible to find. You are better off buying replacement gearsets like those Albins ones and rebuilding your own box. Then you will have a fresh gearbox with new gears that should be strong enough. Imagine you paid $3000 all up for that gearbox then the damage happens? End up paying 5k to fix.

Price was $1300. Needs some work to finish it off but best thing about it is no body/rust repair work is needed. Some details that have to be sorted are the indicators that aren't indicating, interior needs some attention and what you can see in the pic are some missing front parts that I do have some spares at home. That other zed I did buy off that member here (260Z for good home; u may still see the ad) which belonged to my friends father 12 years ago. That zed was part of the deal for Rob at zfactory to wreck. It was pretty rusty and leaked oil so luckily this car will save me heaps of time and $$. I may have to take you up on that offer; I do have some bits lying around but hope its all cool.

Thanks all for the kind comments! Hey Scoota, I do have a window here but it has some tinting on it...is yours without anything? I could not be bothered stripping the tinting off..Let me know when you are in Melbourne next.. I'll give you something for it! I think I do need some wipers..how much did you want for em? I'm going to go through the whole car and see what it needs before I take it for the RWC. Might have to change rear shocks...drivers side rear feels like it's not there!

Never thought I'd see the day but finally bought a 2+2 to haul around the 2.4 kids! Bought from Rob at the Z Factory (as part of a parts car deal). Body has been painted and is in a pretty original condition; even has the original radio still in the console. Can't bring myself when the time comes to install a cd player to remove the radio and butcher the console..Might have to find another butchered console for that! Its a 75 with not much rust at all but just a few small details missing...like drivers window and a headlight..All I have to do now is put it all together and roadworthy the car. Pic below says approx thousand words..

Good to heat that! So should I order those Porsche calipers for you now?

Wheel nuts nice and tight?

+1 with that! But even with bigger brakes fitted, meaning less pedal effort do you still need to box up the brake pedal? Or because you are running without a booster and tandem cylinders there will be more braking pressure on the pedal? You are going to have to put up a video on youtube when its running...dying to hear and see it running!! Excellent job there!

Geez! talk about a nasty suprise... I'd go with Scott's recommendation first then bead blast the panels...

With ignition off, usually theres less than 400ma. Unless you have a clamp meter to measure current (Clamp meters just go around the cable rather than "breaking" into the circuit ie removing cables and can measure higher current etc) normal meters only go to about 10 amps. Charging rates are sometimes higher than that and may damage the meter. If you know someone with a clamp type multimeter, might be better if you let an autoelec try and solve it. When a car is starting, expect around 240 amps, more if your starter is worn! Member Mayhem on here could give some pointers...? Without having the car in front of you, its hard to diagnose.

Just priced a set of three Dellorto's from a wrecker just around the corner from my work..$600. I used to find them for $50-100 some years ago. Reckons they are getting scarce now...too many Alfa's are rusting away and people snapping them up!

I've got that sorted...came across a 2+2 for almost nothing. That's going to be road registered for the moment and can also haul the family around with it! 240 will just stay on the CH for the moment..

Oh well....what can I do with my mountain of cash?

Welcome +2! Isnt there another Stavros with a RB26 2+2? There can always be more than one Steve...

In a previous zed I had a F54 block and P90 head with flat top pistons....the way I know is because I stripped and rebuilt that L28! The N42/F54 block and N42 head combo comes with dished pistons. If you use a N42 head with a flat top piston F54 block, CR ratio's are too much for pump fuel and avgas has to be used.

I remember the 260's voltmeter is always "on". So even when the ignition is off, battery voltage is always displayed. Do you have an alarm fitted? They sometimes remain in a mode that sucks alot of battery power. Try hooking up a multimeter to measure current at the battery with the ground lead off and measure the current draining the battery. Its ok to have some small current there but nothing to serious. No interior lights staying on? cd player? Just guessing...