Zedman240®

Have you tried jacking up just the rear and spinning the wheel by hand to see if anything is contacting while its spinning? Does it do it all the time or under certain conditions; ie turning, braking etc..?

Well Craig, the way I see it is when I had my first blue 260Z and was doing all the club stuff, that had standard suspension and now with a not very healthy (for me anyway) credit card balance and the home loan, I thought I was doing well back then with that setup, might as well sell this system and lower my debt! Its an awesome setup but I can easily do it again when conditions are right. Gerhard may want the brakes, I'll be happy to go back to the S15/R32 setup again! Below are a couple of pics of the struts. Excuse the rear shot...I can get a better one later. Price without the rear AZC arms and front brakes will be $1600

Callum, what intake manifold are you using? I used a Redline manifold and they have the last two throats joined by a small drilled chamber. Like Glen, I never had any issues. Have you checked your one way valve thats in the vacuum line? take it out and test it by blowing through then try to breathe back through it. And did it just start to happen or has it always been like this?

Going back to just the standard strut/coils. Test fitted the RB-r's to a 260 strut I have here and they just fit even with the standard springs. As long as the tyre width is around the 225-215 it should be fine. Sinisha, Ill give you a call later on today.

Updated some info; front brakes are not for sale...just the coilovers / rear adjustable lower control arms for the moment!

So no clearance problems with the wheels? and strut? agree with Lurch..pics!!!

What I meant with that "+20" was that there are around 20 people happy with the service.. Rather than just the +1 comment to yours, I'm with all the others that have bought these wheels..

+20? Another happy Ottomoto customer. Arrived 10 mins ago! Thanks Ben for the ultimate service!!

All I can say is that's a different market. Most of the time you find people that know what they are doing buying those sort of cars. Who bought the ute? middle aged? had "a few" Fords before? Just guessing there. Chances are most of the younger guys (or girls) are after a zed who don't know much about cars and will have to rely on mechanics to get it going which as we all know costs a fair bit. I just speak from experience having sold only around a dozen cars ranging from 300ZX's to Toyota Corolla's and Evo's. Everyone of those buyers favoured the RWC. Its entirely up to you how you want to sell it; just telling you what I've found with most tyre kickers.

From memory, front and rear springs are different. Fronts are shorter than the rear. If you use fronts in the rear, it might be real low. After 30 odd years they do start to sag! Might be a good time to get some heavier Kings springs fitted.

If I had the cash Glen no probz! But I'm too busy buying wheels and no one is buying my crap on ebay. Oh well..bad thing is I need a clutch for the manual conversion I'm doing..arrgghhhh

But Sir Ricer, when it's a big waste of your time and effort, you are desperate for cash and it happens time after time you do tend to get a little upset. I'm sure Confucius has a saying about that..

There's only one problem with "watchers"...It's all they do! It may help to get the roadworthy for it. Many people want the "drive way no more to pay" thing. Especially the younger buyers who's parents will be forking out the cash. They want a guarantee the car is %100. Just what I found selling cars on ebay.

It may just need a little tune up. All cars don't like hot air for the intake; why turbo's have intercoolers. If it's not that, try a airbox to get air from a cooler location. Have you measured the water temp? Should be around 86'c. If you have access to a infra red pyrometer, that's a good way to measure. Point it at the thermostat housing for a reading.

Easy way to identify the strut is to measure (with a vernier caliper) the diameter; 51mm 240Z, 55mm 260Z. As for the hub, looks like you are using the BMW disc and hub. Might be easier to find another suitable disc to use with a 260Z hub. You would have to re-drill the hub for the 114.3 PCD and not the disc.

I think its related to the EPA and noise polution. Induction noise can be louder than an exhaust sometimes! The way I likes it

One line I try to include with expensive items is "Non paying bidders have and will be reported to eBay" they then get an unpaid item strike. Three strikes and they are out and ready to create a new user account and start the whole process again!

Ben, out of curiosity, how much is that Kameari timing chain idler gear sprocket thingy? is it easily available? Thanks

Glen, are they on a manifold? and do you have a pic? Thanks

He has the same wheels but they are 16x10's. Thanks..there are 15 watchers...don't know what they are waiting for....

A good person to ask is Allan (260coupe). He's done what you're thinking of doing. Look through his photo album for a pic of the engine bay.

That's what s#%s me with eBay, same thing happened with my RB I'm trying to sell. Just make sure you get credited for that! Bad thing is you can't give them negative feedback anymore...

Sorry Glen, cant help with any wiring...used a Wolf V500 ecu on my thing. Still have all the stock wiring in the engine bay.

There's nothing worse than missing out on a opportunity and regretting it later on. If it's something you really want to do, do it! When you get older and things change, it may not be possible to complete your apprenticeship. Like the Rev said; you only go through this life once!

Glen, I may have missed which gearbox you are using; have you got a turbo or N/A gearbox? If it's a turbo one, the Navara speedo drive is ok. If it's a N/A box you will have to get one from a VL or Nissan Gazelle 85-86? model. I have a new one here if you can't locate one.