crowe

Thanks for the help, i was unaware about the housing, this will effect me too as i have shifted from the factory 3.7 diff

Hi all, Finally manged to track down an R200 4.11 diff, it is great but...... "I am sure wasn't going that slow officer" will now be my response when next pulled over. The 20 teeth will correct my speedo for new diff, i believe it is red in colour but i have never seen one, i cant even find a Nissan part number, maybe someone knows what that is too? Any help appreciated Thanks in advance

Hi all, I am trying to source one of these diffs and more importantly gearing for competition events. Can be either open or LSD. Fair $$ paid and can freight from anywhere. Maybe...just maybe someone has one sitting in the shed that they aren't using and want to offload to a fellow zedder Thanks

Would anyone have one of these they would like to part with, either new or second hand. I imagine there would be a few fellow zeders that have done this upgrade and then moved on to the 1" MC and hopefully have this one sitting on the shelf looking lonely

Has anyone got any of these lying around used or unused. Alternatively if anyone has had any made up and you know the manufacturer has a pattern I would be keen for contact details Thanks in advance

Hi all, Has done either of the following on a 260Z, if so did you have to upgrade MC and did the conversion work fine with standard rear drum setup. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Front-Stage-4-Performance-Disk-Brake-Upgrade-Kit-/121492985038? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400814030302?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I am looking for a no fuss straight kit that i can changeover for brake performance at club events. Any comments appreciated

Just spoke with the very knowledgable Stewart from SWM, he has the indivdual bearings and seals that i require, he mentioned that the whole kit is not really necessary as it has bits and pices that you really dont need to replace, better to buy the indivdual components on what you are trying to replace which makes sense. I have the box apart now and alot of fine metal inside, kinda like a sludge..................now just have to find where it has come from as the bearings i have checked sofar are quite good

Any one recommend somewhere in Aus where i can buy a gearbox bearing and seal kit for this box? I have spoken to a few of the big bearing merchants, they either dont have a listing for the Zed or have a listing but dont have them in stock. Surely you can still buy a kit off the shelf somewhere? Thanks

Found the receipt 06/12/04, no wonder i cant remember Statewide bearings in WA, part nos B312-16C4 and RLS10-C4. I assume that means i have C4 bearings since they both have it in the part no: Any other ideas? Thanks, Callum

Hi Nzeder, thanks for the feedback. It was that long ago i cannot remember where i got the bearings but i reckon i would have got them from a bearing shop rather than nissan. Is the C3 bearing you are talking about the outer or inner bearing. When i put them togther they felt good, only now after a few kms can you feel the play. My torque wrench only goes to 180 and i would have definitely gone at least that tight and a little more no doubt, i usually try and go somewhere in the middle of what the manual states when tightening bolts. I will try and find the bearing receipt and see if it mentions anything about C3 or C4. Thanks, callum

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has issues with small (tiny) side to side movement coming from their rear stub axles. I can just feel it when i rock the wheel back and forth and really just want to know if that is normal or acceptable. There appeard to be no endplay which is what the nissan manual mainly discusses. The bearing design insnt concave so theoretically there should be none (side to side) but just wanted some opinions and thoughts on it before i go pulling it all apart. The bearings and stub axles have only just been rebuilt (albiet 3 yrs ago) but only just noticed now after the car has been back on the road, only 800km from the restoration being finished. Thanks, Callum

Hey Hunter, how did you go with all this. Did you find a solutions to your issue? An update would be great as I am having similar problems with the tacho and electronic ignition and interested to see how you went.

Hi all, I have read a few posts on the issue and it seems potentially related to electonic ignition and a need for a resistor in the signal feed to the tacho. My tacho seems to work fine but does not go above 4500-5000rpm, it just stops and sometimes is will get stuck there for a while before it starts to work again. I have also seen it stick at lower rpms ocassionally. I have Petronix electronic ignition and 1.5ohm Petronix coil and still using a ballast resistor at the moment. Is the issue that stops the tachos working accurately the signal feed to the tacho being too great? I thought with the ballast resistor that the feed is reduced? Can someone clarify? I would like to keep the same tacho if possible and fix the issue, is this 7500-10000 ohm resister that other posts discuss installed in line to the tacho feed the answer? Has someone done this and cured their problem? The coil, electronic ignition and ballast resistor are all new. Thanks, Callum

Sorry, should have updated this. The arm rest has been SOLD.

They fit quite well but you are responsible for drilling the holes in the right places Its a 2 person job with some packers to help get all the levels right before you start drilling. They definitely need extra bracing though as discussed earlier in the post.