crowe

Thanks for the help, i was unaware about the housing, this will effect me too as i have shifted from the factory 3.7 diff

Hi all, Finally manged to track down an R200 4.11 diff, it is great but...... "I am sure wasn't going that slow officer" will now be my response when next pulled over. The 20 teeth will correct my speedo for new diff, i believe it is red in colour but i have never seen one, i cant even find a Nissan part number, maybe someone knows what that is too? Any help appreciated Thanks in advance

Hi all, I am trying to source one of these diffs and more importantly gearing for competition events. Can be either open or LSD. Fair $$ paid and can freight from anywhere. Maybe...just maybe someone has one sitting in the shed that they aren't using and want to offload to a fellow zedder Thanks

Would anyone have one of these they would like to part with, either new or second hand. I imagine there would be a few fellow zeders that have done this upgrade and then moved on to the 1" MC and hopefully have this one sitting on the shelf looking lonely

Has anyone got any of these lying around used or unused. Alternatively if anyone has had any made up and you know the manufacturer has a pattern I would be keen for contact details Thanks in advance

Hi all, Has done either of the following on a 260Z, if so did you have to upgrade MC and did the conversion work fine with standard rear drum setup. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Front-Stage-4-Performance-Disk-Brake-Upgrade-Kit-/121492985038? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400814030302?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I am looking for a no fuss straight kit that i can changeover for brake performance at club events. Any comments appreciated

Just spoke with the very knowledgable Stewart from SWM, he has the indivdual bearings and seals that i require, he mentioned that the whole kit is not really necessary as it has bits and pices that you really dont need to replace, better to buy the indivdual components on what you are trying to replace which makes sense. I have the box apart now and alot of fine metal inside, kinda like a sludge..................now just have to find where it has come from as the bearings i have checked sofar are quite good

Any one recommend somewhere in Aus where i can buy a gearbox bearing and seal kit for this box? I have spoken to a few of the big bearing merchants, they either dont have a listing for the Zed or have a listing but dont have them in stock. Surely you can still buy a kit off the shelf somewhere? Thanks

Found the receipt 06/12/04, no wonder i cant remember Statewide bearings in WA, part nos B312-16C4 and RLS10-C4. I assume that means i have C4 bearings since they both have it in the part no: Any other ideas? Thanks, Callum

Hi Nzeder, thanks for the feedback. It was that long ago i cannot remember where i got the bearings but i reckon i would have got them from a bearing shop rather than nissan. Is the C3 bearing you are talking about the outer or inner bearing. When i put them togther they felt good, only now after a few kms can you feel the play. My torque wrench only goes to 180 and i would have definitely gone at least that tight and a little more no doubt, i usually try and go somewhere in the middle of what the manual states when tightening bolts. I will try and find the bearing receipt and see if it mentions anything about C3 or C4. Thanks, callum

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has issues with small (tiny) side to side movement coming from their rear stub axles. I can just feel it when i rock the wheel back and forth and really just want to know if that is normal or acceptable. There appeard to be no endplay which is what the nissan manual mainly discusses. The bearing design insnt concave so theoretically there should be none (side to side) but just wanted some opinions and thoughts on it before i go pulling it all apart. The bearings and stub axles have only just been rebuilt (albiet 3 yrs ago) but only just noticed now after the car has been back on the road, only 800km from the restoration being finished. Thanks, Callum

Hey Hunter, how did you go with all this. Did you find a solutions to your issue? An update would be great as I am having similar problems with the tacho and electronic ignition and interested to see how you went.

Hi all, I have read a few posts on the issue and it seems potentially related to electonic ignition and a need for a resistor in the signal feed to the tacho. My tacho seems to work fine but does not go above 4500-5000rpm, it just stops and sometimes is will get stuck there for a while before it starts to work again. I have also seen it stick at lower rpms ocassionally. I have Petronix electronic ignition and 1.5ohm Petronix coil and still using a ballast resistor at the moment. Is the issue that stops the tachos working accurately the signal feed to the tacho being too great? I thought with the ballast resistor that the feed is reduced? Can someone clarify? I would like to keep the same tacho if possible and fix the issue, is this 7500-10000 ohm resister that other posts discuss installed in line to the tacho feed the answer? Has someone done this and cured their problem? The coil, electronic ignition and ballast resistor are all new. Thanks, Callum

Sorry, should have updated this. The arm rest has been SOLD.

They fit quite well but you are responsible for drilling the holes in the right places Its a 2 person job with some packers to help get all the levels right before you start drilling. They definitely need extra bracing though as discussed earlier in the post.

Hi all, I picked these carpets up a few years ago at a swap meet, they were marked datsun Z at the time so i took the gamble however they aren't from a 240 or 260z 2 seater, they may have come out of a 260 2+2 or later 280zx. The carpets are new and have underlay and beading around the edges, if you can identify them as probably going to fit your car go for it. If anyone can identify them please post it as that would also help. There is what looks like........ - 2 rear boot sections, they are different from one another though - 2 passenger and driver foot well sections and what looks like a rear floor section behind (under) the seats? I am in Cairns. QLD and happy to freight, carpets are free to whoever needs them, i just want to recover postage costs Cheers, Callum

Hi all, I am selling my (new) centre console arm rest that i purchased from Motorsport Auto and have never used. It comes with hinges, screws and intructions for mounting to replace your old one or to add one to your console that never had an armrest. It cost me $43 USD new about 6 months ago + freight, link to site is http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/CAR I will offfer it here first and then it will go to Ebay. Offers?

Hi all, I have had some recent electrical troubles and narrowed alot of the issues to my fusible links. They were not delivering full current on things causing lights to dim and some other weird anomalies. They are 30 + years old and lightly corroded. This combined with dirty terminals was not good. Anyway, went to Nissan to get new ones and they only stock 1 of the links in Australia, the rest need to come from Japan. Nissan price was $23 ea. I decided to buy some special silicone fusible link wire and fittings and make my own. They are identical to the factory ones, use the same gauge wire, same length and come soldered and crimped. My 260z has three of them (black, green and brown), I think some of the 240's only have 2. Price is $5 each for fellow zedders including free postage. If you are having some weird electrical problems i suggest you start here with these links, also handy to have a spare should you need them. If your interested let me know. Callum

Hi Guys, I am using a Nissan Works Manifold ( it is quite old from back in the rally days i think), the car is a resto so brand new or recond everything brake and engine related, the one way valve is brand new and functions fine, I am not sure if any of my chambers are linked but i suspect not. Do all redline manifolds have this link between 2 throats. This link is to help get vacuum for the booster off two throats rather than the one? Thanks Alan, do you remember what type of manifold you were using when you had the same problem? I can link 4 throats quite easily to increase vaccuum which might be a good starting point. The booster is standard 260Z reco. Cheers, Callum

Hi all, I am having some problems with (what i think is) not enough vaccuum for the master cyclinder brake booster running triples. When the brakes are applied first time I get alot of pedal travel and then on second stab I go through the windscreen. I have been told that when running triples you will have issues with the brakes due to the lack of vaccuum for the brake booster. At the moment the vaccum line is only connected to one throat on the manifold, it is also interesting to note that this sparkplug is always leaner than all the others. This would be due to the brake booster connected to this cyclinder?? Anyone with triples enlighten me on the fix, best way to manage this? Thanks, Callum

Its a fuel cut solenoid which is wired in with the relays under the driver seat. From memory it has something to do with the amount of fuel that is pumped through for emisssion control in conjunction with the relays under the seat, they link in with engine temp sensor and it all has something to do with cold starts and emission control. Leave them disconnected and isulated and you wont have any issues, same goes for the relays under the drivers seat. Hope that helps

Good thinkin Stevo, here are pics of the final product and bracing I did The plate was pretty simple, i ended up using salastic and bolts to make sure it is sturdy, it is braced to the centre grill mount

The benefit of fuel return can be argued, i have seen triple setups with returns and without and both run no problems. A return line is probably easier to manage, cheaper to setup fuel pressure and delivery correctly and has the added benefit of delivering cold fuel to your carby's. Heat soak is very much an issue on cars that run triples without a return line, the return line allows cold fuel to be constantly delivered to your fuel chambers. If you have a return rail line standard back to the tank (i think all zed's do) then you are best off using it. You also dont need a flash pressure regulator using this setup, a simple restriction on the return line (brass olive or hose barb) drilled correctly will with a little mucking around get your the right operating pressure without compromising flow and full throttle conditons. You can also then use your standard pump rather than aftermarket. Hope that helps

Thanks for the info Alan. What sort of clearance do you have from the end of your trumpets to the outside wall of the airbox? Do have a picture of the whole cold air intake system? Where does the 10% more power come from, the cold air intake or the ramming effect or both? Cheers, Callum

I am just going through this process now and don't quite understand. Why is it that both the rocker cover and crankcase must be vented to a catch tank? I noticed that Sulio has blocked his crankcase ventilation with the welch plug (is this still the case sulio?) and been advised against this but.... won't the blowby gas that normally comes from the crankcase now flow up the front of the timing cover and come out the rocker cover vent if the crankcase ventilation is blocked? Any ideas? Is this logical? Just want to get it right first time and really dont want to plumb the crankvent if i dont have to.