crowe

Best option would be to use the standard plate that came with the 260z, on this modle they use four bolt holes to mount to the top of the strut tower and have a seatbelt guide (to stop seatbelt cutting you neck off) bolted to the side of the car straddled over the quarter window. The ahrdest part of the conversion would be located the retractable mounting plates, the 260z have boldy welded bolts to locate the bracket

thanks oldmates260z, exactly what i was chasing. You dont happen to have a picture of the jack by any chance? Those set spanners, they look like 10-12mm, 14-16mm and 17-19mm? thanks again

Hi all, I am trying to source the original toolkit and jack that came with the 260Z. Does anyone have an inventry of what came with the car in the little black pouch, I imagine it was some spanners, wheel brace, maybe a screwdriver or two and some wheel chocks? Any help and pictures appreciated.

Hi all, I have a standard 260z box which was recond a couple of years ago. The gearstick no longer self centres once you push it to the left, it feels like the springs? that hold the gearstick on the middle of gates are worn or broken. The stick retunrs to the centre from the right (5th & reverse) but not from the left (1st & 2nd). I had a look at the manual but cant really see why or what causes it to return. On the top of the box is a screw thread where the "reverse select spring" goes, is this part multifunction and also do the gearstick centering? Any one that can shed light on this? I woud like to fix but no sure if that is done internally or externally. Thanks Callum

I ummmed and arrrred about which way to go, my carpets were originals so i was going to buy a heap of carpet and do them myself but being short of time decided to spend a little extra and get a set that were pre-made. The 9 pience set i got was very ordinary and many of the pieces required additonal trimming because they were the wrong size, the amount of time i wasted with the new carpets I may aswell have done it myslef and got an upholster to overlock the edges of the floor mats and the boot mat

Hi Modular, I have seen these belts, unfortunately they do not have retractors or match the ones i currently have, I am trying to stay orginal if i can.

another photo

Hi All, I am looking to source an orginal drivers side seatbelt for my 260Z coupe. I have attached some photos of the passenger side so people know what i am looking for, ideally it will be the same as this. In my car the retractors sit on top of the rear strut towers. The lhs and rhs belts are similar so if you have a lhs belt please let me know too. I need the complete belt, retractor and stalk on the floor, you will notice that the photos have some model numbers on them, ideally i would like a working retractor but not concerned about the webbing etc and i plan to have them re-webbed. Any help appreciated

Anyone purchased these before, I can re-use the drivers side but i have none for the passenger. I am fairly sure they are the orginal carpet clip and would like to try and obtain 2 more, i have been to a few upholsters with no joy. Any ideas? Cheers, Crowe

Thanks Scando, I had better think about that now before i paint it, especially if i have to cut a new hole for it. Can you give me any more details on the hook you used, materials and size etc. Using the same bolt holes as the orginal hook means it will be quite long and maybe a little filmsy to protrude out past the spolier?

Thanks Stevo, I found another post where some guys did some additional bracing, i will follow their lead and do similar. What are you going to do about your tow hooks (if anything). I noticed today with the spoiler added to the front the tow hooks will be inaccessible. Any ideas? Some fitting photos attached for those interested

Stevo, Have you made any further progress with the painting and fitting. I just sat down this sarvo and looked at dry fitting mine and thought there was a little too much flex in places, particulary the flat surface in the middle has a few woops and bows in it. Did you add any additional bracing? Cheers, Crowe

Hi all, Does any one know where i can get the clips (little circle clip that slides into masonite backing) that hold the door trims onto the door. I have been to a few local upholsters but they dont have anything that close to what the orginal clip is. Thanks

Scrumpy, I have just done this, bought the electronic ignition and the 1.5ohm coil and using the ballast resistor. I did hook it up for a while to 12 volts (without ballast) and it does get quite hot on the key and idling in a relatively short time so i went back to using the resistor. I spoke to Gordon at Petronix Australia and he sugggested i go with the 1.5 ohm rather than the 3.0 ohm. I did have problems with the petronix ignitor kit, it didnt fit my 260Z dizzy correctly. Apparently there are 2 different dizzy that were used on the 260z, but the confusing part is they both have the same model number stamped on the side. Mine required a little modification of the rotor shaft to get the magnetic pickup over the cam and is actually different to the dizzy decribed in the nissan workshop manual (even though it has the correct numbers on the outside) If you buy the ignitor kit and it doesnt fit you are either up for mods or maybe best to run a 280z dizzy instead and return the ignitor. Hope this helps, you can defintely go with the 1.5ohm coil. I would be interested to know if your dizzy fits the ignitor or not? Callum

Can anyone help out with these window sashes? The resto project is coming close to an end but i can't put any windows in Any ideas of where i could source them from? Thanks, Callum

Hey Rev, i have just done this myself. Best to use the orginal rail if you can, just makes it a bit easier. I cut mine to modify it and regretted it afterwards. The orginal rail also has a smaller opening in the return line which slightly restricts fuel pressure going back to the tank, giving more pressure on the carbs. The dripping fuel you now have is too much pressure, using the standard pump with the standard fule rail should give you better pressure. I would not join your return line and the fuel tank evaporator line togther as pictured in photo, the evaporator line does not go back to the tank directly and is for gases only, you dont want fuel in this line. You may want to permanently cap this if you have removed the carbon canister, this will prevent fumes or smell of pertrol under the engine bay. I used webers not mikunis so cant help on the other questions but crank case ventilation should go to an oil catch tank with breather on top. The vent (pcb) on top of rocker cover should also go to this same tank.

Thanks zed660, very good info

Hi all, 5 years since the start of restoration and the old 260 finally breathes some life.....but have a few problems. When using webers does anyone still use the standard vaccuum advance? I have been told to get my dizzy re-weighted and remove the vacuum advance when running webers. Can anyone verify this or comment on your own setups? Also fuel pressure, I am running the standard electric 260z pump through the standard rail but have a feeling there is too much fuel pressure as after a while of idling i get fuel dripping back out the trumpets on all carbies, this leads me to believe too much pressure? Anyone recommend a good (handheld) fuel pressure gauge to check? Do others out there use these inline fuel pressure regulators, any good? Thanks, Callum

Ahhhh! Its been that long since i had it together (coming up 5 years) i thought it was supposed to be normally off. Thanks Gav Callum

Hi all, Has anyone come across the problem of the voltmeter in the dash working at all times, it is supposed to register voltage only once the key is turned on but for some reason my registers voltage all the time as soon as the battery is connected. I have triple checked my wiring (this is a resto project and now rebuilding) and can't really explain it. Has anyone seen this before and if so........... found a solution? Thanks, Callum

nism0zed, is your 260 got the mechanical levers that operate all the vents and heater cock etc or is it vaccuum assisted? I am pretty sure there was a change in the 260's some have mechanical and some later ones had vaccuum assmeblies, those that came with factory aircond all had vaccuum actuators, i have a complete factory evaporator for the 260 that is designed to go with the vacuum assemblies that has been pressure tested and ready to go, doesnt really suit me as i still have mechanical levers and the two arent really compatible.

Yep, that sounds good, do you want to PM me with your bank details and total amount, and i will get that underway. Thanks for looking for the interior panel, if you could keep an ear out in th enext couple of months it would be appreciated Thanks, Callum

Hey JP240z, yes it is the RHS i need. The chrome edgings have internally welded right angle brackets which screw all the surrounds together, it is difficult to tell from the photo but if you have had one apart you will know what i mean, all the back side is rusted out including the right angle bracket. I can probably get it repaired but will be easier just to get a new one in good nic if i can. Freight from melbourne ok, or anywhere for that matter thanks, callum

Thanks Guys, I did think about plastic welding Sulio but there will be a noticeable change in the pattern/texture finish of the panel even when painted, i will do this though if i cannot find another. Let me know if you find one JP240, it is the back LHS i require but it doesnt have the speaker part from what i can tell. Thanks, Callum

Anyone out there know of or keen to part with the trims on a 2 seater RHS quater window as per photos. If not any suggestions where i can track one down? - photo 1 is the whole window - photo 2 is the part i require but am happy to buy the whole thing if need be Thanks, Callum