Zedman240®

To me, more important than hearing the engine is the body! eg rust etc and if it's been done properly..not just patched up with chicken wire and plaster (don't laugh..seen it before!) Engines can be replaced/repaired but bodywork costs. The car sounds good for that price but does it run at all or just coughs and splutters? Make a good offer and see what happens and hope his not just offloading a crap load of problems he couldn't figure out onto you... Just my thoughts anyway...and welcome to the forums! Does it have a sunroof? if so, take off a few hundred!

I still remember going around the Winton circuit in pissing down rain with my L's! Like Jospef says, he could be a champion behind the wheel and we don't know it..it is good to have a shit box runnabout as well (helps with the parts collecting you WILL be doing when its time to rebuild the zed!) and to leave in suspicious places and not having to worry about it. Join a club and do some sprints and that shows you and everyone else who does it, we are all not experts but we try hard!

Dave, if you are coming to the Jag Club meeting, if you have them off by then that is, I would love to grab them off you.. 1600dave, hold onto them if you can for the moment just in case...I'll let you know real soon...Thanks

Remember if you go the RB way, even though the engines are cheap and you want it road reg'd as well, add aonther $800 or so on top of that for engineer's report. Plus the brake upgrade etc.. A good healthy L28 will put out as much if not more than a NA RB25DE; DET is another thing, good power for the $$you throw at it but goes back to certificates you need. A standard L28 with 240Z carbs (Hitatchi's) and elec ignition will get you around 90Kw at the wheels. Install some triples and a cam, and that should go to around 120~Kw; what a standard RB25DE will get you with aftermarket efi setup and lots of $$$. As with any engine setup Kw=$$$

Ahhh..dammit! Don't worry about bringing them to the meeting then Lurch, thanks anyway. What grinds my gears is I had a pair I removed from my 260Z; then sold them on ebay for $16.

That's ok Mike, all I really need are the insulator blocks/studs and linkage bar that links the two carbs... I still have to send you some rod ends heh? How many and what type are you after? I have 2 spare ones that look like tie rods...

How the hell did I miss that! Yeah Jane you are right. Charge rate is around 13.8 - 14V. Place a multimeter across the bat and measure. Or if you can measure current drain by setting up the meter to measure amps and remove the ground cable and place the meter in series between the ground cable and negative terminal of the battery. There should be around .04-5 amps..any more like around 1 amp you have a serious drain there somewhere..

I think it all comes down to the all mighty dollar! What type of engine you decide on depends how many pennies you have saved! or how many hard earned pennies you want to spend..

Depends on the coil if you run a ballast resistor or not. Usually electronic ignition coils run on straight 12V and don't need the voltage to be dropped. Points type coils run on 9 volt and only use 12V during start up.

Standard alternator is usually ok but how old is your battery? Average battery life is around 3-4 years for a locally made or cheap one and around 8-9 years for a Japanese battery. Sometimes an old batter can't hold a charge for long periods; day to day is fine but any longer and it struggles.

Thanks! I'll take whatever is thrown at me... I thought you were going to fit them to your RB25? j/k

Greetings all, just after some old 260 flat tops with manifolds etc. if anyone has a set taking up space or anchoring a boat..pref in Melbourne so I can pickup rather than waste cash on posting. Just need some parts of them! Thanks

I'm seriously thinking about it...would'nt mind playing wit a turbo setup in the 240....just watching the auction though.. for $400 I would pay but $750 is just out of my price range!

Should be good to see it all complete and running; I was going to convert my original lights to LED rather than use after market lamps. Oh, BTW you should also change your flasher can too..(I think its Hella part # 2016LED?) or else your flash rate will be like 2 per second! Because the LED's take less of a load on the original flasher, the flash rate will increase..

I'll give you a call James about the spoiler......need it for the bus!

Good to hear!... Sometimes its just something so simple but has big effects.

Mike, the specs I have are similar to yours but with a 75mm hat. Being blank, it doesn't come with the hub. Just have to bore it out and drill the pattern for the 260Z hub. Finding out soon about availability...if your looking into this same conversion, start looking for discs now!

Builds all done and running; there's a couple of youtube videos of it running at some club days. As for the tuning, yes, its all done with TPS vs rpm/load. To use the RB26 throttle plate, I'm not sure if it has injector holes in it or if they are mounted elswhere; Nzeder (Mike) would be the man to ask about that.

Just curious on the coil pack? What is it from and if you don't me asking how much? Thanks

I'm no autoelec, but I have heard that the globe in the gauge for the "charge light" is important. Long time ago I was tempted to replace it with something else and was told it has to be a specific wattage globe. Not sure how true and accurate that is but have left it alone and all is well. Should be easy to change if you have small child like arms that can reach behind the dash.

Congrats on the new bundle of joy...friend has one...drove it when it was still new! Nice but firm ride.

Nahh..they are genuine Hitatchi's. I went to Steve Newing today and he confirmed they are from L20 equipped 240Z's. They have the 4 screw top with some different things you don't see on the normal 44mm (1 3/4) versions. These are only 1 1/4" throats so only good for auto 260/240Z that will never see track use or a heavy right foot.

I found an old pic from a previous 260 zed I had with the same brakes I'll be putting on my 240. This is with the 286mm DBA106B disc and R33 caliper with 260Z hubs (they are needed for this mod).

I just scored some cheap 240 carbs off ebay but one thing I didn't notice was the small throats. I know the "good" SU's have a 44.4mm (1 3/4") bore but these have a approx 35mm bore. Just wanting to know which model came with this carb if it's a zed or how many different models of Hitatchi (SU) were made? These only have 2 bolts holding them onto the manifold. Just really bought it for the manifold! I can post up pics a bit later..