Zedman240®

Machining work that has to be done is turning up on a lathe some ally "slugs" that have to be pressed into the mounting tabs of the calipers after you remove the threaded inserts, and be a real tight fit, machining the i.d of the discs to match the 260Z hub (which have to be used and NOT the 240Z hub) re-drill the disc to match the hub PCD (not to be confused with the wheel PCD of 114.3) and machining of the hub face where the disc is bolted to (I'll take a pic to make it crystal clear) approx 5mm. When all that is done, mount the disc to the hub, install it on the stub axle on the strut, fit caliper and mark the exact position on the caliper and drill holes into the caliper for mounting bolts. That can be seen on the above pics of my earlier post.

Scrumpy, if you want to part with that splined distributor drive....let me know! I'm chasing any L28ET stuff I can get my grubby little hands on..

Another Welcome from here also.... with that issue of the sudden oversteer, I found myself in that same position...first turn at Sandown chasing another zed, went through the first half of the corner then before I knew it, I was facing oncoming traffic! I have a 24mm front bar and 19mm rear and disconnecting the rear bar improved it alot. I'll be trying a smaller front bar and re-connecting the rear and see what happens. I had 300lb springs all round too. My new springs are 280 fr and 300 rear; been told by quite a few people that zeds prefer lighter fronts than rears....interesting

I'm sure what happens is some of the sellers "friends" help by pushing the price up, and if they end up winning it, re-list and say the previous winner stuffed them around...they rely on the genuine bidder to win at any cost and try not to push it too high.

Nope...LHD bonnet releases pull from the passenger side (to us) and RHD well, you know the cable enters from the drivers side. Mechanism is opposite.

Shane, any luck locating a turbo dizzy? I'm really curious on how and if it's going to work with your ECU for sequential EFI. I may have found one here in Melbourne but from a L20ET.

That red 260 2+2 would be only good for wrecking... looks like the rust has claimed another victim.. Unless you're after a challenge?

Hehehe..that top pics reminds me of the movie "Twins" Oh and lash pads belong in the engine and not on your bonnet! ..Must have been a brilliant weekend..

Well, here are the pics.. Let me know what you think.

Dave, easiest thing to do is grab some mig welding wire, make a copy of all the bends of an original one, then go to a brake place and they can make you one. It will save you days of searching. They could make the flexible one also, even make it a braided steel one while you are at it! Just make sure you take an example so they install the correct ends. I was about to do the same thing but sold the 2+2.. Hope it helps

I've been thinking for the last few weeks to ditch my spoiler and grab one of those BRE style above.. Something a bit more "period". Probably fits better as well! How much were you selling them for? still $140?

Just a quick update, brakes have been done but I have yet to pick them up! What I'll be doing this weekend is picking them up, bring them back home and dismantle them to paint the struts. In my haste I had to give the struts to him in primer as I ran out of time to paint before I had to deliver them. I'll take a heap of pics and give details about all the components to help anyone who wants to do this conversion. Also, (for anyone in Melbourne) he offers to do the work for you, provided you chase up all the parts like discs, calipers, new pads and seals and whatever else is needed ie worn if you remove your struts and give them to him for about $250-300. You can do a drive in-drive out but will cost a bit more reason being its a little more difficult to do. Calipers avg about $200-220, discs are about $70 a pair and seals $28 and pads about $40-50. Depends what quality you are after.. if you can get it cheaper...well done!

Hehehe... if I had a job there, I'd probably move! I've seen loads of bargains up there while I was stuck here...I know the feeling. Would've been a good car to keep but I just need the 240Z finished and to have no time spare and two cars that need work is very frustrating. But if a bargain pops up...hmmm

Easiest way to tell is the 2+2's have these two vertical little raised "bars" between the reverse lights and number plate whereas the 2 seaters have none.

That would be great Len, even at the Rivet/Nutsert place I work at, for example trying to find a M8 nut with a 12mm spanner size is very hard. Fine metric bolts are another not so hard item but annoying when you don't have them there and then! Studs are even more fun.

Har har funny Sulio.. ..... hehehe. I'm on the 17th Craig and thanks, same to you.

Thankfully yes, it's going to a Melbourne resident. Been lurking around the forums for a while and today has taken the plunge into zed ownership. I'm sure he will introduce himself soon. We need to keep the zed numbers here over the border!

Cant explain the "Nothings working" comment but he might mean fuel pump? Probably can't remember what the RAASA mechanic said to him... I'd be scared to call...

Ohh..rust repair sections now available? nice addition..

Wise words! It will be all forgotten when your driving around getting thumbs up signs from everyone.. What chassis number is it out of curiosity? If it's an early one, the extra work IS worth it!

Hehehe....I've become an expert on the error codes now, so if you have a code, let me know!

Sold...deposit taken!

Thanks everyone... the day started with me repairing the central heater...stupid Brivis units! Can only get better! Shall have a drink tonight.

I think this should be it; let me know if you need more pics

More pics.....